What its looking like so far....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,202
Likes: 10
From: cincinnati ohio
St. Jude Donor '09
FYI, Summit and jegs carry metal canister filters about the size of the glass one you have....
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 15,161
Likes: 17
From: coffee
I'll repeat my opinion on blowing stockish bottom ends. PM me if you want details, but...IMHO you need to have a purpose built bottom end, unless you like changing engines, which I detest. I had mine built by CNC motorsports and while it wasnt cheap, it wasnt crazy expensive either, (about 4K) and I know I can hammer the crap out of it without hurting it. The demise of my last engine was (too much boost) a piston. Unless you are going to run some kind of engine management/detonation suppression system, I would not boost cast pistons. But that's just me.....
I think my CR on the crate is ~8.5:1, so I would think that 6 lb. of boost would be workable, but then, you could probably get the same gains out of heads/cam. It's really more of an idea I like to think about than any real option that is likely to happen. .
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 541
Likes: 1
From: Freeport FL
Good advice, of course, that's why the angel on my other shoulder just tells me to forget the blower and worry about getting the thing up and running first.
I think my CR on the crate is ~8.5:1, so I would think that 6 lb. of boost would be workable, but then, you could probably get the same gains out of heads/cam. It's really more of an idea I like to think about than any real option that is likely to happen. .
I think my CR on the crate is ~8.5:1, so I would think that 6 lb. of boost would be workable, but then, you could probably get the same gains out of heads/cam. It's really more of an idea I like to think about than any real option that is likely to happen. .
You are right you can get the same place with heads/cam. I thought about going back to NA when I planned this build. But of course the coolness factor isnt there
Nothing says "Corvette" like a C3 with headers, sidepipes and a blower sticking thru the hood. You think anyone has EVER asked me what kind of car it is????Plus, DD says I have 440 HP NA with this combo. Who can resist strapping a blower to that???
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 541
Likes: 1
From: Freeport FL
Update
Electric fuel pump and fan relays. Their automatic resetting circuit breakers are hidden in this photo. The 2 breakers that you do see, I installed in place of the fusible links on this side of the car. (I hate those things.) I added the ground bus to clean up all the ground wires that were attached randomly around the engine compartment. Turns out this area is unused on the `76 (was for the wiper door vacuum thing on earlier models. I did have to move the heater fan relay to make a little more room though.
Wiring on this side of the car pretty well cleaned up.
VPB spreader bar and Taurus fan install:
My nifty little vacuum distribution manifold:
Wiring on this side of the car pretty well cleaned up.
VPB spreader bar and Taurus fan install:
My nifty little vacuum distribution manifold:
Last edited by Droshki; Jan 30, 2009 at 03:55 AM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 541
Likes: 1
From: Freeport FL
Getting ready for hydroboost and cleaning up wires on this side:
I wonder why GM felt that they had to make the alternator wires 18 inches too long?
My shiny new wire looms ( and valve covers):
Problem here, the wire looms block access to my new dipstick. Moving it out onto a stud and bending the mounting tab really isnt working, I am going to have to fab up a new mounting tab:
I wonder why GM felt that they had to make the alternator wires 18 inches too long?
My shiny new wire looms ( and valve covers):
Problem here, the wire looms block access to my new dipstick. Moving it out onto a stud and bending the mounting tab really isnt working, I am going to have to fab up a new mounting tab:
Last edited by Droshki; Jan 30, 2009 at 03:59 AM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 541
Likes: 1
From: Freeport FL
Wiring greatly improved here, but not finished. Please see my post in C3 Tech about what some of this stuff is.
An improvment on the alternator wiring over factory, I think:
All my hoses tucked safely away here. Tossed that factory AC wiring harness too:
An improvment on the alternator wiring over factory, I think:
All my hoses tucked safely away here. Tossed that factory AC wiring harness too:
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Brett Foote
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Wow everything is looking great. Are you going to loom the wiring in a sheath of some kind or leave it wire tied?
I like the breakers in the firewall. My area was unused too so I installed mechanical gauges to monitor the engine when not in the cabin. I've changed a few things since the picture was taken but you get the point. Oil pressure and temp gauge, mechanical, with a hood switch controlling the gauge lights which are only on with the IGN.
Are you going to loom the wiring in a sheath of some kind or leave it wire tied?I like the breakers in the firewall. My area was unused too so I installed mechanical gauges to monitor the engine when not in the cabin. I've changed a few things since the picture was taken but you get the point. Oil pressure and temp gauge, mechanical, with a hood switch controlling the gauge lights which are only on with the IGN.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 541
Likes: 1
From: Freeport FL
Hey I like that idea of the gauges. And how clever with the wiring! I should have thought of that but as we all know, real estate is precious here. A lot of the big yachts have them mounted in the engine room like that though so you can monitor things while tinkering down there.
I'm undecided about loom. My first plan was to use blue split loom, but now I dont know. The PO went absolutely crazy with split loom (black). He put it on EVERYTHING including the throttle cable, vacuum lines, AC lines, etc, etc. I bet I pulled 20 pounds of it out. Given my aircraft flight test background, I am partial to just the wire ties. Its the least bulkiest, and provides ready access for troubleshooting. In any event, I needed to reach this stage first, cleaning it all up beforehand. If someone wants to post some pictures of loom in their car that would help me decide, but I also feel like that look is kind of an `80's thing. Something with a modern bent would be nice.
PS, Matt please see my note to you on regular email.
PPS did you use the proper sending units for dual gauge impedance or did you just use seperate sending units for the underhood gauges? Oh, I see, you used mechanical gauges.
I'm undecided about loom. My first plan was to use blue split loom, but now I dont know. The PO went absolutely crazy with split loom (black). He put it on EVERYTHING including the throttle cable, vacuum lines, AC lines, etc, etc. I bet I pulled 20 pounds of it out. Given my aircraft flight test background, I am partial to just the wire ties. Its the least bulkiest, and provides ready access for troubleshooting. In any event, I needed to reach this stage first, cleaning it all up beforehand. If someone wants to post some pictures of loom in their car that would help me decide, but I also feel like that look is kind of an `80's thing. Something with a modern bent would be nice.
PS, Matt please see my note to you on regular email.
PPS did you use the proper sending units for dual gauge impedance or did you just use seperate sending units for the underhood gauges? Oh, I see, you used mechanical gauges.
Last edited by Droshki; Jan 30, 2009 at 10:16 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
See the pic above and you can see the type of looming I used in my car. It's a heat and fire resistant woven split loom that looks a WHOLE lot better than corrugated split loom.
http://cableorganizer.com/f6-wrap-around/
Yeah the gauges have mechanical senders. The temp gauge gets it's reading from the passenger head and the oil pressure gauge goes to the port next to the distributor.