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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 11:15 AM
  #1  
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Hi Guys,

Can any one decifer what this might mean below, what u think it would caost to repair. Note this was from a seller.

I'm not very mechanical, so I can't really say to much more about it.
the small issues I mentioned are 1. tach doesn't work (I was told it maybe a $4.00 chip,but I'm not sure. 2. if you turn a corner and accelerate at the same time it begins a knocking sound for a minute. (I was told the drive shaft has 2 halves, and the u-bolt that holds them to the frame is loose). 3. when I bought it it was missing passengers door lock (small crack wear it was).

SG
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 11:27 AM
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That seller knows NOTHING of the car he is selling and the person he got mechanical advice from is just as worthless.

Tach could be a board, not $4 though, wiring, or actual tach mechanical problem.

The cornering knocking could be any one of the six U-joints, or even rear end trouble. No, a $4 chip won't fix that either. LOL.

The glass around the passenger door lock can be repaired, and the lock can be replaced in a set with the other side and ignition cylinder.

I would try to find someone in the area of the car, a professional, or even a forum member, that can look at the car carefully to see if it's worth the asking price and even what you want.

Do you have any pictures of the car? If you do, please post them...if you need help posting pics just say so.
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 11:32 AM
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interesting, no pics according to seller, suppose to go see in a couple hrs.

Any tips on how to figure out what the knocking could be? Boy rear end scares me.

what do u think a new board would cost for the tack? something always simple cost the most it seems.

SDG
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by sdg
interesting, no pics according to seller, suppose to go see in a couple hrs.

Any tips on how to figure out what the knocking could be? Boy rear end scares me.

what do u think a new board would cost for the tack? something always simple cost the most it seems.

SDG

The knocking could also be something as bad as engine rod knock because oil pressure drops when cornering. Scary, and a seller that knows so little about the car is going to give you very bad descriptions of the problems. It could be a maladjusted E-brake. U-joints. Rear end. Hard to take someone else's word, so check into it carefully yourself.

Take a camera, document EVERYTHING, including engine, interior, all sides, tops, and yes, you're going to want to get under the car. Check for frame rust especially where the frame kicks up after the cabin.

If the seller agrees, pull the kick panels and the A-pillar trim and check behind there for rust and rot of the birdcage.

Document things like lights, brakes, fluids on or under the engine...and things that are sagging like rear suspension. Do the headlights go up and down?

Being extra careful when buying a car like this might be the difference between walking away from a basket case, or a rare find with minor cosmetic problems.
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 01:11 PM
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Run Forest!!!! RUUUUUUUUUUNNNN!!!!!!!!


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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 05:54 PM
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LOL,

After due inspection, rear end was shot, interier a mess, ext maybe, but for 4500? who knows i say maybe if you want to spend alot time to just make it a driver.


here snipe hear snipe snipe.
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