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I am restoring a 1968 corvette and have it stripped completely to the fame. now i can't decide if i should put gussets on or keep it as is. what do you think?
It really depends how strong the frame is to start with and how "correct" you want the car to be. I didnt add any gussets to my 69 427/400 frame but it was in good condition to start with. However I did get it Hot dip galvanized to get to all of those hard to reach areas thjat were rusted, especially inside the frame rails.
Does anyone have a diagram where they all go or could tell me where to put them and where not to put them. I know some will interfere with the steering but where else.
If my memory isn't playing tricks on me, one of the older Chevrolet Power catalogs/books has a section of gusseting or reinforcing a C3 frame. I think it was in PDF format here on the forum. You might be able to do a search and find it.
Here is a link covering the subject, done by a forum member http://www.corvette-restoration.com/...engthening.htm. It should give you some ideas.
If you are interested in frame strength, beyond gussets, one of the first things that was done to race prep frames for road racing was to continuously weld all the seams. This helps strength and adds to the torsional rigidity. I'd do this if I were to want stiffer — before adding gussets. If you want to go full-bore, roll cages do lots more than rollover protection adding significantly to frame rigidity. Then don't forget to brace between your front arms. You can go as far as you want or as far as you can afford....Most street cars need little of this, however.
Reed
If you are interested in frame strength, beyond gussets, one of the first things that was done to race prep frames for road racing was to continuously weld all the seams. This helps strength and adds to the torsional rigidity. I'd do this if I were to want stiffer — before adding gussets. If you want to go full-bore, roll cages do lots more than rollover protection adding significantly to frame rigidity. Then don't forget to brace between your front arms. You can go as far as you want or as far as you can afford....Most street cars need little of this, however.
Reed
For racing, the full seam welds are ideal but for street, which will not be inspected regularly,stitch weld with short breaks between (4" with a 1/8th gap will work).
If a crack does start in a seam it will travel the full length and create greater flex than the factory welds.