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I bought two rebuild kits from Auto Zone and attempted to rebuild my leaking calipers. I read all the threads on how to do it and proceeded to rebuild one front and one rear that were leaking. The front leaks worse then when I started and the rear doesn't leak but is locked up. So I give up. I'm going to buy new calipers but I don't want to go through this leaking a year or two from now. I know the Auto Zone calipers are cheap but I've heard they start leaking after a while. I've heard the o-ring calipers are much better, but for the money, is it worth it? Will my problems be solved. I don't have big money to spend. I just want the car on the road. Any experiences with certain calipers would be appreciated.
I bought O-ring calipers from VB&P with the trade in cores almost 2 years ago now. Worth every dime. No leaks, and I have good manual brakes.
It costs much less to do it right the first time.
Well I bought these lip seal calipers from VB&P 9 years ago and I thought I would never have a problem. Supposedly a lifetime warranty but they said they would have to evaluate them to see if it was something I did or something they did. By the time I would spend the money to send them back, for them to tell me I did something wrong, I figured I would try to rebuild them. I guess they won't take them back now.
Hi L,
Nice day here...YES?
Do the calipers you rebuilt in fact have stainless sleeves in them? You said you had bought new calipers years ago but were they sleeved.
If they were sleeved did you check them? I had to replace some pistons because the seal was leaking at the piston (they were pitted) not at the sleeve.
Regards,
Alan
I bought VB&P's O-ring rebuild kits, and rebuilt my existing calipers. When I was done, my break pedal was so firm and high, that I had to modify my brake light switch mount so that the brake lights would come on before my brakes started to engage. Maybe, and I stress MAYBE, an inch of pedal travel from the top to lockup. That was 6 years ago, and they're still just as firm and high. The kit comes with new o-rings, and new pistons to go with them. Item number 11309 does one front caliper, 11310 does one rear; 29.99 each. Or, 11312 is a master kit, that does all four wheels, and has all the bolts, pins, springs, etc. This is the best option, IMHO. Without question the best money I have spent to date. Do yourself a favor, and whichever kits you buy, do all four corners. That way, you won't have to wonder when the next one will fail.
Last edited by MilleniumZ06; Feb 8, 2009 at 05:50 PM.
Reason: More info
Hi Alan Yes Very Nice day. The calipers were bought from VB&P and when I took them apart, everything looks new. They are stainless sleeved and the bore looks brand new. I cleaned the pistons up a little but no pitting at all. I rebuilt the front one twice and it still leaks. I'm tired of spending the money on the rebuild kits and then still having a leak. I'd try the o-ring rebuild kit but I'm thinking the way things are going, it might be another waste of money.
Hi Alan Yes Very Nice day. The calipers were bought from VB&P and when I took them apart, everything looks new. They are stainless sleeved and the bore looks brand new. I cleaned the pistons up a little but no pitting at all. I rebuilt the front one twice and it still leaks. I'm tired of spending the money on the rebuild kits and then still having a leak. I'd try the o-ring rebuild kit but I'm thinking the way things are going, it might be another waste of money.
Get the o-ring rebuild kits from VB&P, and rebuil them again. Don't forget any parts, the o-rings between the caliper halves, or anything else I might have left out. I just got the rebuild kit for all 4 of mine, and am waiting until I get to the point to do it. Good luck, and get to it!!!
Rebuilt mine with VBPs O-ring rebuild kit on 2002 and brakes have been solid and a non-issue ever since. I just put new pads and rotors on this winter at all 4 corners, but still no leaks from the calipers. Bled them all again as well for the first time since 2002.
Its not expensive and I cant think of a better investment for durability of your OEM calipers
Also recommend the Motive pressure brake bleeder set-up. Got mine from Mid America. Makes bleeding the brakes so easy a cave man could do it!! Just dont fill it with brake fluid. Use it as a pressure source only.
Rebuilt mine with VBPs O-ring rebuild kit on 2002 and brakes have been solid and a non-issue ever since. I just put new pads and rotors on this winter at all 4 corners, but still no leaks from the calipers. Bled them all again as well for the first time since 2002.
Its not expensive and I cant think of a better investment for durability of your OEM calipers
Also recommend the Motive pressure brake bleeder set-up. Got mine from Mid America. Makes bleeding the brakes so easy a cave man could do it!! Just dont fill it with brake fluid. Use it as a pressure source only.
Brent.
I replaced all four of my 79 calipers with VB&P 'O' ring, SS sleeved calipers and never had a problem again. Best investment I ever made on my 1979 coupe.
ok So it looks like the o-ring rebuild kit is the way to go. I am mechanically inclined but I just can't figure out why these calipers still leak after I rebuilt them. If I spend $160 on the o-ring rebuild kit, and they still leak, I'm not going to be happy. Are the o-rings easy to put in without damaging them? Thanks for all the help.
O-ring pistons will go into ther bores quite easily. They are certainly tighter than the lip seal pistons though. Cover them in brake fluid before you slide them in.
Make sure your bores are Stainless Steel sleeved (not pitted iron core) and not out of round, and you should not have any issues. You would be able to see them damaged visually if they are out of round, ie: regular pistons become kinked in the bore. This may be due to use of a sticky disc brake quite material on the back of your pads and caused the piston to not travel freely as they moved out due to pads becoming thinner. Its reportedly been known to happen.
O ring pucks on mine slid in easier than lip seals! I tore my calipers apart, cleaned all the fluid out, made sure all the bleeders worked ok and then bead blasted them. I also got a nice piece of glass (flat) put some fine sandpaper on it and shade tree 'surfaced' the two mating surfaces to make sure they were flat. Bled them, worked great with no leaks.
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