Kick panel/speaker question...Where's D_B
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
The Blaupunkt subwoofer has two power (+) leads and two ground (-) leads. Why I do not know. But according to the instructions they are to be joined at installation and the (+) side fused. The amp has an internal fuse of 10A and I assume the (+) connection will be 10A as well (the instructions do not say). Those wires are 16 gauge.
My intent is for both (+) and (-) to go directly to battery posts, GM side version. I have been poking about at on-line electronic stores and there are certainly a lot of many connectors out there. But most are for much larger amps and wire gauge. Does anyone have suggestions as to how to make the connections and what fuse holder to use? Garden variety white nylon type? Is the connector the simple loop/ring variety? I would appreciate advice and pics if available.
My intent is for both (+) and (-) to go directly to battery posts, GM side version. I have been poking about at on-line electronic stores and there are certainly a lot of many connectors out there. But most are for much larger amps and wire gauge. Does anyone have suggestions as to how to make the connections and what fuse holder to use? Garden variety white nylon type? Is the connector the simple loop/ring variety? I would appreciate advice and pics if available.
Last edited by Paul L; Feb 11, 2009 at 01:28 PM.
Pro
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 609
Likes: 8
From: Round Rock TX
WTF!
I was thinking of running Polk Audio db 525 in the kick panels and MMC461p's in the dash wired in parallel so they run at 2ohms. That way I can hear the radio over my really loud exhaust. (and my bitching wife that the car is too loud).
I was thinking of running Polk Audio db 525 in the kick panels and MMC461p's in the dash wired in parallel so they run at 2ohms. That way I can hear the radio over my really loud exhaust. (and my bitching wife that the car is too loud).
Last edited by oneshot; Feb 11, 2009 at 01:29 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,802
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From: Wichita KS
cc
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
As to whether DB is needed, much of what is being discussed in this thread is a result of his initiatives. My thanks to him. It is unfortunate if he is no longer with us.
Last edited by Paul L; Feb 11, 2009 at 07:05 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 57
From: Mundelein Illinois
The best set up is a mid and tweeter in dash a 6.5 or 5.5 midbass in kickpanel, a sub and midbass to midrange for rear fill.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
It's not the small size of the speaker but the placement of the speaker reflects off the windshield and with this the sound is even brighter. There nothing wrong with dash speakers you just need to control the volume of them so that don't over drive the other speakers.
The best set up is a mid and tweeter in dash a 6.5 or 5.5 midbass in kickpanel, a sub and midbass to midrange for rear fill.
The best set up is a mid and tweeter in dash a 6.5 or 5.5 midbass in kickpanel, a sub and midbass to midrange for rear fill.
Last edited by Paul L; Feb 11, 2009 at 05:43 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,030
Likes: 363
From: Lubbock Texas
It's not the small size of the speaker but the placement of the speaker reflects off the windshield and with this the sound is even brighter. There nothing wrong with dash speakers you just need to control the volume of them so that don't over drive the other speakers.
The factory tweeters in my Suburban's Bose system are actually pointed at the windshield and designed to reflect off of it.
DC
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,092
Likes: 5
From: Fayetteville Arkansas
Yes, that was his advice to me. Hence my course of action. The current Pioneer 4 x 6"s in the upper dash will be disconnected and the Polks in the kickpanels will do the front end action. The Blaupunkt in the rear will take care of bass. DB provided me with a nice plan that did not require an amp for the 4-ohm front speakers.
As to whether DB is needed, much of what is being discussed in this thread is a result of his initiatives. My thanks to him. It is unfortunate if he is no longer with us.
As to whether DB is needed, much of what is being discussed in this thread is a result of his initiatives. My thanks to him. It is unfortunate if he is no longer with us.
Sully
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 57
From: Mundelein Illinois
In your battery compartment there is a positive lead that goes to a distribution block. My car is an 81 and the block is to the right of the battery. I think you have a 74 which maybe different. Connect power to the distribution block and connect ground as close to the amp as possible.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 57
From: Mundelein Illinois
You can go to the neg post. Try it, if you get noise you have to move it to a piece of metal that makes ground. For the positive side get a ring terminal without the plastic insulator, crimp your wire and then take a hammer and flatten the crimp. This makes it easier to connect the side terminal back to the battery. Place a fuse at the battery to protect the wire. If it ever grounded without a fuse, it will burn the wire
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 57
From: Mundelein Illinois
You can go to the neg post. Try it, if you get noise you have to move it to a piece of metal that makes ground. For the positive side get a ring terminal without the plastic insulator, crimp your wire and then take a hammer and flatten the crimp. This makes it easier to connect the side terminal back to the battery. Place a fuse at the battery to protect the wire. If it ever grounded without a fuse, it will burn the wire
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
You can go to the neg post. Try it, if you get noise you have to move it to a piece of metal that makes ground. For the positive side get a ring terminal without the plastic insulator, crimp your wire and then take a hammer and flatten the crimp. This makes it easier to connect the side terminal back to the battery. Place a fuse at the battery to protect the wire. If it ever grounded without a fuse, it will burn the wire
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
This is what I will install on the power (+) side. The integral amp on the subwoofer has a 10-amp fuse in the chassis so I thought that this would be fine for the battery end. The ring connector is soldered and shrink-wrapped.
Last edited by Paul L; Feb 16, 2009 at 04:06 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 57
From: Mundelein Illinois
Thats fine but you might want to go a little thicker for power, I'm thinking 12 or 14 guage. Can't tell by the pic but that wire looks a little thin
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 57
From: Mundelein Illinois
OK
I've taken 12 or 14 guage fuse holders and cut out some of the strands so I could solder it to the crimp like you did. This way you have a heavier guage wire runnig to the fuse and amp.
Just a thought
I've taken 12 or 14 guage fuse holders and cut out some of the strands so I could solder it to the crimp like you did. This way you have a heavier guage wire runnig to the fuse and amp.
Just a thought
