Need stiffer shocks
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 1
From: aurora
Need stiffer shocks
can someone tell me what shocks are stiffer than ac/delco?
the ac/delco are to soft whats out there for an 81 that is not large $$$ and hard. i just want them for the rear.
no jokes.
Todd
the ac/delco are to soft whats out there for an 81 that is not large $$$ and hard. i just want them for the rear.
no jokes.
Todd
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Just about anything is stiffer than an AC Delco shock. From other posts, the odds-on favorite seems to be Bilstein Sport shocks; there are other decent shocks, also, and they are less money than the Bilsteins. But no one who has them complains about the cost.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Tho I may have KONI adjustables, I'm in full agreement that a set (4) of Bilsteins qualifies as one of the best improvements most owners will ever make to their Corvette, making them a sound investment.
TSW
TSW
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Mar 6, 2009 at 11:57 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 1
From: aurora
Thanks everyone for your input
tell me what do you think of
KYB Gas-Adjust shocks
http://www.fixthisride.com/showprodu...?prod_id=94095
thoughts
Thanks
Todd
tell me what do you think of KYB Gas-Adjust shocks
http://www.fixthisride.com/showprodu...?prod_id=94095
thoughts
Thanks
Todd
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Oversimplified shock primer...
The primary function of shock absorbers is to dampen the natural frequency of unsprung weight oscillations in order to best keep a vehicle's tire contact patches on the road surface. Different combinations of unsprung weight and spring rates will have different natural frequencies. Thus, the need to properly match shock damping to the application in question, on or off track.
Beyond that, shocks can also be tuned for particular transitional characteristics thru manipulation of the rate of weight transfer between a vehicle's four corners. Adjustable shocks provide for some tailoring of how they perform their primary function, within a given range, and depending on how many adjustments are afforded they may also provide more or less flexibility in modifying the latter, which is a rather more complex undertaking somewhat beyond the focus of this post.
In actuality, what is commonly referred to as "firmness" is more correctly a given shock absorber's sensitivity to the velocity of travel in either bump and/or rebound. So called "firm" shocks are simply more sensitive to, and thus more resistant to, suspension movements of a given speed. As some shocks are valved to manage varying velocities differently, you may have heard of low-speed or high-speed in relation to this.
I hope the above doesn't seem too elementary or too difficult to grasp, but with this basic knowledge, it should be easier to see the disadvantages of applying too much dampening; which can result in touchy responsiveness, harsher ride, crashing over rather than absorbing bumps, a tendency to slide more readily, the tires skipping over or slow to return to the road surface, lifting a tire off of the road prior to reaching suspension travel limits (see avatar), overly long transitions into or out of roll, dive or squat, or even jacking up or down of ride height over a succession of irregularities. Inversely, too little shock will result in a floaty ride where the vehicle may porpoise along after bumps, sluggish response, and rapid roll, dive or squat development (which can itself oscillate back and forth).
As there's a fair amount of room for opinion between too much and too little shock, what is the right amount of shock is down to one's own priorities; suffice it to say the nearer are yours to performance the less desirable you'll find the traits of soft shocks. Just be mindful that there is such a thing as too much shock, for any application.
Hope that helps a little.
edit - I might add that since higher spring rates relative to vehicle weight result in less movement for a given amount of weight transfer, more sensitive (or "firmer") shocks become necessary, as is usually the case with racing cars.
Beyond that, shocks can also be tuned for particular transitional characteristics thru manipulation of the rate of weight transfer between a vehicle's four corners. Adjustable shocks provide for some tailoring of how they perform their primary function, within a given range, and depending on how many adjustments are afforded they may also provide more or less flexibility in modifying the latter, which is a rather more complex undertaking somewhat beyond the focus of this post.
In actuality, what is commonly referred to as "firmness" is more correctly a given shock absorber's sensitivity to the velocity of travel in either bump and/or rebound. So called "firm" shocks are simply more sensitive to, and thus more resistant to, suspension movements of a given speed. As some shocks are valved to manage varying velocities differently, you may have heard of low-speed or high-speed in relation to this.
I hope the above doesn't seem too elementary or too difficult to grasp, but with this basic knowledge, it should be easier to see the disadvantages of applying too much dampening; which can result in touchy responsiveness, harsher ride, crashing over rather than absorbing bumps, a tendency to slide more readily, the tires skipping over or slow to return to the road surface, lifting a tire off of the road prior to reaching suspension travel limits (see avatar), overly long transitions into or out of roll, dive or squat, or even jacking up or down of ride height over a succession of irregularities. Inversely, too little shock will result in a floaty ride where the vehicle may porpoise along after bumps, sluggish response, and rapid roll, dive or squat development (which can itself oscillate back and forth).
As there's a fair amount of room for opinion between too much and too little shock, what is the right amount of shock is down to one's own priorities; suffice it to say the nearer are yours to performance the less desirable you'll find the traits of soft shocks. Just be mindful that there is such a thing as too much shock, for any application.
Hope that helps a little.
edit - I might add that since higher spring rates relative to vehicle weight result in less movement for a given amount of weight transfer, more sensitive (or "firmer") shocks become necessary, as is usually the case with racing cars.
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Mar 7, 2009 at 07:06 PM. Reason: clarification
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 1
From: aurora
The primary function of shock absorbers is to dampen the natural frequency of unsprung weight oscillations in order to best keep a vehicle's tire contact patches on the road surface. Different combinations of unsprung weight and spring rates will have different natural frequencies. Thus, the need to properly match shock damping to the application in question, on or off track.
Beyond that, shocks can also be tuned for particular transitional characteristics thru manipulation of the rate of weight transfer between a vehicle's four corners. Adjustable shocks provide for some tailoring of how they perform their primary function, within a given range, and depending on how many adjustments are afforded they may also provide more or less flexibility in modifying the latter, which is a rather more complex undertaking somewhat beyond the focus of this post.
In actuality, what is commonly referred to as "firmness" is more correctly a given shock absorber's sensitivity to the velocity of travel in either bump and/or rebound. So called "firm" shocks are simply more sensitive to, and thus more resistant to, suspension movements of a given speed. As some shocks are valved to manage varying velocities differently, you may have heard of low-speed or high-speed in relation to this.
I hope the above doesn't seem too elementary or too difficult to grasp, but with this basic knowledge, it should be easier to see the disadvantages of applying too much dampening; which can result in touchy responsiveness, harsher ride, crashing over rather than absorbing bumps, a tendency to slide more readily, the tires skipping over or slow to return to the road surface, lifting a tire off of the road prior to reaching suspension travel limits (see avatar), overly long transitions into or out of roll, dive or squat, or even jacking up or down of ride height over a succession of irregularities. Inversely, too little shock will result in a floaty ride where the vehicle may porpoise along after bumps, sluggish response, and rapid roll, dive or squat development (which can itself oscillate back and forth).
As there's a fair amount of room for opinion between too much and too little shock, what is the right amount of shock is down to one's own priorities; suffice it to say the nearer are yours to performance the less desirable you'll find the traits of soft shocks. Just be mindful that there is such a thing as too much shock, for any application.
Hope that helps a little.
edit - I might add that since higher spring rates relative to vehicle weight result in less movement for a given amount of weight transfer, more sensitive (or "firmer") shocks become necessary, as is usually the case with racing cars.
Beyond that, shocks can also be tuned for particular transitional characteristics thru manipulation of the rate of weight transfer between a vehicle's four corners. Adjustable shocks provide for some tailoring of how they perform their primary function, within a given range, and depending on how many adjustments are afforded they may also provide more or less flexibility in modifying the latter, which is a rather more complex undertaking somewhat beyond the focus of this post.
In actuality, what is commonly referred to as "firmness" is more correctly a given shock absorber's sensitivity to the velocity of travel in either bump and/or rebound. So called "firm" shocks are simply more sensitive to, and thus more resistant to, suspension movements of a given speed. As some shocks are valved to manage varying velocities differently, you may have heard of low-speed or high-speed in relation to this.
I hope the above doesn't seem too elementary or too difficult to grasp, but with this basic knowledge, it should be easier to see the disadvantages of applying too much dampening; which can result in touchy responsiveness, harsher ride, crashing over rather than absorbing bumps, a tendency to slide more readily, the tires skipping over or slow to return to the road surface, lifting a tire off of the road prior to reaching suspension travel limits (see avatar), overly long transitions into or out of roll, dive or squat, or even jacking up or down of ride height over a succession of irregularities. Inversely, too little shock will result in a floaty ride where the vehicle may porpoise along after bumps, sluggish response, and rapid roll, dive or squat development (which can itself oscillate back and forth).
As there's a fair amount of room for opinion between too much and too little shock, what is the right amount of shock is down to one's own priorities; suffice it to say the nearer are yours to performance the less desirable you'll find the traits of soft shocks. Just be mindful that there is such a thing as too much shock, for any application.
Hope that helps a little.
edit - I might add that since higher spring rates relative to vehicle weight result in less movement for a given amount of weight transfer, more sensitive (or "firmer") shocks become necessary, as is usually the case with racing cars.
so for an older car with maybe a weak or weaker spring a firmer shock would be in order, and the fact i would like the car to feel stiffer and not so floaty?Thanks
Todd
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 39
From: Fremont CA
Friends don't let friends buy KYB shocks. I know Bilsteins are 2X the money but the are better shocks. Koni are also very good and the RCSI adjustable shocks at Mid America Vette aren't bad for $200 a set but a PITA to istall the fronts.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 1
From: aurora
Just be aware not to confuse the possibility that you may have room for firmer shocks than what you currently have to affect an improvement without going too far with their "making up" for weak/soft springs. To put it another way, I'm not necessarily saying that the new combo won't be better, but you can only get so much out of changing shocks with a given set of springs.
Good stuff will give some firmer shocks a go, cant hurt.
thanks for all your input.
Todd