Changing out pw/steering control valve
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 617
Likes: 8
From: Morgan City LA
Changing out pw/steering control valve
hello all!
my control valve is leaking and need to change it out. how complex is this job? i've been looking at it looks pretty straight forward but seems things are usually harder than they look!
looks like basic wrenches and sockets will do the job or is there something i'm missing. also is there a thread that covers how to do this?
thanks guys!
my control valve is leaking and need to change it out. how complex is this job? i've been looking at it looks pretty straight forward but seems things are usually harder than they look!
looks like basic wrenches and sockets will do the job or is there something i'm missing. also is there a thread that covers how to do this?thanks guys!
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Orion MI
I found it to be as easy at it looks.
Just make sure you have a catch pan handy to catch teh fluid comming out of the lines. I might even suggest draining all the fluid (good a time as any to replace it).
Just make sure you have a catch pan handy to catch teh fluid comming out of the lines. I might even suggest draining all the fluid (good a time as any to replace it).
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,921
Likes: 2
From: York PA
It's as easy as it looks.
1) take the old one off.
2) put the new one on.
3) bleed the system (turn the wheel back and forth a few times)
4) start the car and adjust the centering nut (do not put your hand through the steering wheel or put anything near the wheels until this is done. It can break an arm if hooked up backwards, or badly centered)
Last time I did mine, the local autozone had a lifetime warrantied, rebuild unit in stock.
1) take the old one off.
2) put the new one on.
3) bleed the system (turn the wheel back and forth a few times)
4) start the car and adjust the centering nut (do not put your hand through the steering wheel or put anything near the wheels until this is done. It can break an arm if hooked up backwards, or badly centered)
Last time I did mine, the local autozone had a lifetime warrantied, rebuild unit in stock.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,173
Likes: 3,982
From: Connecticut, USA
not always as easy as it sounds. Many times the threads are rolled and can be tight removing. Hopefully you don't have this problem. Also look to see if the valve is on there in position, as there is a spec for it from the fully home position. One of my cars had the valve bottomed out so bad I had to remove the center link with it on to remove outside of the car.
watch the new valve for leaks and don't put your hand through the steering wheel when you first start it, if it's not balanced(many are not) the wheel will osillate fast enough to hurt you.
watch the new valve for leaks and don't put your hand through the steering wheel when you first start it, if it's not balanced(many are not) the wheel will osillate fast enough to hurt you.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,369
Likes: 103
From: Centerville Louisiana
Hey Mike I was just looking at doing this job on mine I'm changing out the steering box on mine in a week or two and I noticed alot of fluid around mine I cleaned it real well and I'm not sure yet but it looks more like a hose on mine thanks to GTR1999's advice before I jumped in. where are you looking at getting a new one from I've learned some of these guys will only accept a GM core as exchange
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 617
Likes: 8
From: Morgan City LA
the hoses are new, i've had no problem except for the leaking all the way down my new drive way. actually the c/valve i had got from Manley, it was a brand new one he had but we figured since it sat up maybe the seals dried out. i'm just gonna put a new one in since i don't want to take a chance of rebuilding it wrong and it STILL leak! the valve has only been in there little over a year.
Sawmill Festival is on my schedule! dunno if i mentioned it but i bought another Vette couple of months ago. 96 Vette with LT4 and 6speed. absolute blast to drive. gonna have both there. no that i think of it that dang valve started leaking right after i brought the new one home.
actually the c/valve i had got from Manley, it was a brand new one he had but we figured since it sat up maybe the seals dried out. i'm just gonna put a new one in since i don't want to take a chance of rebuilding it wrong and it STILL leak! the valve has only been in there little over a year.Sawmill Festival is on my schedule! dunno if i mentioned it but i bought another Vette couple of months ago. 96 Vette with LT4 and 6speed. absolute blast to drive. gonna have both there. no that i think of it that dang valve started leaking right after i brought the new one home.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,403
Likes: 790
From: Redondo Beach, California
To screw the new valve back on, you might want to clean up the idler arm threads with a die. Also, one "new" control valve I bought had buggered up threads. Took a lot of work to clean them up (used a Dremel wire brush.) If I ever have a problem again with the control valve threads, I'd buy a thread tap. You have to order the taps/dies from a machinest supply shop since they're a unusual thread pitch for the diameters involved.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,369
Likes: 103
From: Centerville Louisiana
My work schedule seems to always work against me. Two vettes in the same garage they don't keep you up at nite? You drove your 82 to sippi?
Last edited by croaker; Mar 17, 2009 at 09:01 PM.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 291
Likes: 6
From: Delray Beach FL
It is not bad. I have done a few of them. I usually count the number of turns the old one is threated on and make sure the new one goes on the same so the steering wheel is not off center. Just take your time when doing it. Balancing is easy. Disconnect the ram from the frame pop the little cap on the PS Valve start the car and adj the valve to make sure the ram does not mve. If you have any question let me know
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
It's an easy job. Mine won't stop leaking though ...last's about 3 month's then leaks. I've bought GM new , Autozone rebuilt , replaced the steering Arm once. Got a rebuild kit once...I give up .
I just keep adding stop leak fluid , I wish I could get a nice good one though. It leaks
at the ball socket.
I just keep adding stop leak fluid , I wish I could get a nice good one though. It leaks
at the ball socket.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,909
Likes: 6
From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
The control valve can be difficult to unscrew from the idler arm. Notice it's (the control valve) is tighten down with a bolt/clamp arrangement. Take the bolt out completely (you have to to unscrew the control valve) and then take a big screw driver and spread the clamp part of the control valve apart a little to reduce turning friction.
To screw the new valve back on, you might want to clean up the idler arm threads with a die. Also, one "new" control valve I bought had buggered up threads. Took a lot of work to clean them up (used a Dremel wire brush.) If I ever have a problem again with the control valve threads, I'd buy a thread tap. You have to order the taps/dies from a machinest supply shop since they're a unusual thread pitch for the diameters involved.
To screw the new valve back on, you might want to clean up the idler arm threads with a die. Also, one "new" control valve I bought had buggered up threads. Took a lot of work to clean them up (used a Dremel wire brush.) If I ever have a problem again with the control valve threads, I'd buy a thread tap. You have to order the taps/dies from a machinest supply shop since they're a unusual thread pitch for the diameters involved.
Last edited by fotyfobravo; Nov 6, 2010 at 04:20 PM.