Air Compressor setup
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
Air Compressor setup
I just bought a 60 gallon compressor and was wondering wether to use just air hose or metal pipe to several connection points throughout the garage. What have you done with yours?
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
Inside, I have a hook that I coil up a long hose on and the Vette is parked on that side of the garage. I just unhook a couple of loops of hose and walk around the car with it.
If I need to use air in the driveway, the hose is plenty long to reach out there too...I just unhook more loops of hose.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
Copper pipe is very good but, EXPENSIVE, threaded pipe is OK but will rust inside, plastic pipe is commonly used but, is DANGEROUS! and has the potential to EXPLODE and sharp plastic pieces can IMPALE and possibly KILL YOU. Many use plastic pipe but, don't realize the dangers of it's use. There are several systems on the market with Aluminum pipe and specialty fittings but htey run more than Copper pipe. There is also nylon tubing good for 150PSI it dosen't go up very well but, I would use it before I ran plastic piping. Search the internet and you will see some good designs at Ingersol Rand and Chicago Pneumatic compressor sites.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 551
Likes: 3
From: Spokane Washington
I use aluminum hard pipping that uses quick connect fittings. I have several points thru out the shop that i can a air hose to as well as 2 reels in the ceiling. I have found that this works great and I have had no leaks not to mention I can easily add incertion points anywhere along the line.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,750
Likes: 2,494
From: Buckeye, AZ
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
I have done it with iron pipe but don't recommend it. The couple times I have done, I have ended up with a pinhole leak somewhere which drove me nuts. The last time I did it I used copper and it was fast and easy and no leaks. Being there is no water in the pipe it solders up quickly. At each end point I soldered on threaded ends, and went over to Farm & Fleet and picked up all of the fittings and put them on with tefon tape! Worked great, and is easily expandable. I saw comments above stating that plastic was dangerous but I really didn't understand that either as I believe water pressure is tested at 300psi, and most compressors don't provide that kind of pressure. You really only need a system that will hold around 150psi, and I have seen plastic used even in industrial appliactions for this. I prefer the copper because it is soldered....I have had very few solder joints ever fail but I have seen a few plastic joints fail in my time.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 551
Likes: 3
From: Spokane Washington
I saw comments above stating that plastic was dangerous but I really didn't understand that either as I believe water pressure is tested at 300psi, and most compressors don't provide that kind of pressure. You really only need a system that will hold around 150psi, and I have seen plastic used even in industrial appliactions for this.
The problem with Plastic (PVC) pipe is that when it gets cold or sits in sun it becomes very brittle and depending on the air pressure can explode into tiny peices. If you see PVC pipe used in an industrial application you can bet that Osha has not been there since it was installed. (not that I am a fan of Osha) but I have seen what this stuff will do when it explodes and I know I wouldnt want to be near it.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
I just took down about 150ft of pvc that had at least 10 drops piped in and had 150psi in it daily for the last 14 years.
Never a leak and no explosions.
I used a knife pvc type cutter to remove and it was definately more brittle than new. Wasn't worth saving the pipe.
I'm not recommending it, but I plumbed the new place with it too, sch 80.
Copper is best though.
Never a leak and no explosions.
I used a knife pvc type cutter to remove and it was definately more brittle than new. Wasn't worth saving the pipe.
I'm not recommending it, but I plumbed the new place with it too, sch 80.
Copper is best though.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 627
Likes: 1
From: Naperville IL
I just ran air hose across my garage and down into the workshop in my basement. I have a black iron manifold with shutoff valves at the compressor and filter/regulator/quick connect assemblies at 3 spots. Its held on the wall up near the ceiling with 1/2" emt straps and cut to length so it's out of the way. I was thinking about running iron pipe all over, but it just seemed like more work than it was worth. If a hose does go bad for whatever reason I can pull it out and replace it in about 10 minutes.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
Thanks for the input.
I was thinking of iron pipe but the comment about the pinhole leaks is making me second guess that.
I didn't even think of copper. It might be more expensive but it's really easy to cut to the lengths you need and solder the joints. With iron pipe you have to cut then thread or you end up with a lot of unions and short pieces if you try to buy pre-threaded pipe at a hardware store.
I also didn't think about making a manifold and using hose from it to the work.
I have a couple weeks before I'm ready to install it so I have time to think about what will work best for me.
Thanks again.
I was thinking of iron pipe but the comment about the pinhole leaks is making me second guess that.
I didn't even think of copper. It might be more expensive but it's really easy to cut to the lengths you need and solder the joints. With iron pipe you have to cut then thread or you end up with a lot of unions and short pieces if you try to buy pre-threaded pipe at a hardware store.
I also didn't think about making a manifold and using hose from it to the work.
I have a couple weeks before I'm ready to install it so I have time to think about what will work best for me.
Thanks again.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,750
Likes: 2,494
From: Buckeye, AZ
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
Thanks for the input.
I was thinking of iron pipe but the comment about the pinhole leaks is making me second guess that.
I didn't even think of copper. It might be more expensive but it's really easy to cut to the lengths you need and solder the joints. With iron pipe you have to cut then thread or you end up with a lot of unions and short pieces if you try to buy pre-threaded pipe at a hardware store.
I also didn't think about making a manifold and using hose from it to the work.
I have a couple weeks before I'm ready to install it so I have time to think about what will work best for me.
Thanks again.
I was thinking of iron pipe but the comment about the pinhole leaks is making me second guess that.
I didn't even think of copper. It might be more expensive but it's really easy to cut to the lengths you need and solder the joints. With iron pipe you have to cut then thread or you end up with a lot of unions and short pieces if you try to buy pre-threaded pipe at a hardware store.
I also didn't think about making a manifold and using hose from it to the work.
I have a couple weeks before I'm ready to install it so I have time to think about what will work best for me.
Thanks again.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 809
Likes: 8
From: brewster NY
I've done two of these, copper is the way to go. I took everything out of
my old house and put it in this one. Put the compressor in the attic,
bought the water separators from sears and the reel from Costco a few
years back and the pipe from Home Depot.
my old house and put it in this one. Put the compressor in the attic,
bought the water separators from sears and the reel from Costco a few
years back and the pipe from Home Depot.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,691
Likes: 833
From: WI
You want metal because it cools the warm compressed air as it goes through the air line. That allows the moisture to condense and then it gets caught in the moisture trap. That's how it's supposed to work. That's how you get nice dry air. You should have at least 25ft of pipe and drop downs, etc. I doubt PVC will cool the air down enough to properly separate the moisture unless you have really long runs like might be present in a large shop or factory. I think copper is easier to work with. I know guys that have had iron pipe for years w/o problems. Here is a good link:
http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13858
http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13858
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
You want metal because it cools the warm compressed air as it goes through the air line. That allows the moisture to condense and then it gets caught in the moisture trap. That's how it's supposed to work. That's how you get nice dry air. You should have at least 25ft of pipe and drop downs, etc. I doubt PVC will cool the air down enough to properly separate the moisture unless you have really long runs like might be present in a large shop or factory. I think copper is easier to work with. I know guys that have had iron pipe for years w/o problems. Here is a good link:
http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13858
http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13858
It's all about dew point.
If you are serious about dry air , here's the dryer, refrigerated.
Bought one on eBay for 140 bucks used.
http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/...m=shop+portals