Ride height
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 1
From: Beverly Massachusetts
Ride height
I took the exhaust off of my car from the cat back because i have to drop my gas tank to run new hard lines. anyways i thought i knew what my ride height was from memory BUT i was wrong. anyways here is what i measured and i was wanting to know what everyone else has and what is the stock ride height suppose to be.
highest point of front wheel well to ground = 25.5"
highest point of rear wheel well to ground = 28.75"
lowest point of frame just before it kicks up behing front wheel = 5.5"
lowest point of frame directly in front of rear wheel = 6.75"
what are you getting and where is the most correct spot to measure if i didnt use the correct spots.
highest point of front wheel well to ground = 25.5"
highest point of rear wheel well to ground = 28.75"
lowest point of frame just before it kicks up behing front wheel = 5.5"
lowest point of frame directly in front of rear wheel = 6.75"
what are you getting and where is the most correct spot to measure if i didnt use the correct spots.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,221
Likes: 4,312
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi LD,
For 71 coupe factory was.... rear 27.91" and front was 27.91". Varied a little with A/C. At the high point of the wheel well opening.
Regards,
Alan
For 71 coupe factory was.... rear 27.91" and front was 27.91". Varied a little with A/C. At the high point of the wheel well opening.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Mar 29, 2009 at 07:12 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
The most correct height specs by which to go are, first and foremost, the Z and D chassis heights, which are not effected by incorrect tires or body/chassis mount irregularities. Until you know where you are on these two fundamental specs, it's hard to accurately quantify any other height measurements other than for appearances, IMHO.
This may or may not be complete...
TSW
This may or may not be complete...
TSW
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 1
From: Beverly Massachusetts
The most correct height specs by which to go are, first and foremost, the Z and D chassis heights, which are not effected by incorrect tires or body/chassis mount irregularities. Until you know where you are on these two fundamental specs, it's hard to accurately quantify any other height measurements other than for appearances, IMHO.
This may or may not be complete...
TSW
This may or may not be complete...
TSW
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Well, from where you are currently, it's fairly obvious you've got adjustment(s) to make anyway. Shy of starting with Z & D, I suggest taking into account any variation between OEM tires and what you have now to arrive at "corrected" P & R heights to get you into the ball park without significantly throwing off suspension geometry.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 1
From: Beverly Massachusetts
Well, from where you are currently, it's fairly obvious you've got adjustment(s) to make anyway. Shy of starting with Z & D, I suggest taking into account any variation between OEM tires and what you have now to arrive at "corrected" P & R heights to get you into the ball park without significantly throwing off suspension geometry.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
For lowering purposes, especially since your mounts are "gone", the Z & D really are the right specs, as you are altering suspension geometry, intentionally or not. To end up with ~1" P to R rake after new mounts you'll be at ~0.5-0.6" Z to D difference. FWIW, the Chevy Power RR recommended specs of 1-1.25" Z & 1.25" D result in from ~1/2" to ~3/4" P to R rake, so you won't be far from that.
However, unless you've very short tires, your current P of 25.5" indicates you've really slammed the nose. Two things to watch for out back when lowering very much are not to end up with the diff so low that 1) the half shafts sit at or below level from the outer stub axles towards the diff, as with any suspension travel in squat or bump dynamic alignment will move towards toe out under acceleration or during cornering; an undesirable condition, or 2) U's bind and break in squat or bump... Compensating for these issues is why you see occasional threads about raising the diff in the chassis.
However, unless you've very short tires, your current P of 25.5" indicates you've really slammed the nose. Two things to watch for out back when lowering very much are not to end up with the diff so low that 1) the half shafts sit at or below level from the outer stub axles towards the diff, as with any suspension travel in squat or bump dynamic alignment will move towards toe out under acceleration or during cornering; an undesirable condition, or 2) U's bind and break in squat or bump... Compensating for these issues is why you see occasional threads about raising the diff in the chassis.
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Mar 30, 2009 at 01:20 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 1
From: Beverly Massachusetts
For lowering purposes, especially since your mounts are "gone", the Z & D really are the right specs, as you are altering suspension geometry, intentionally or not. To end up with ~1" P to R rake after new mounts you'll be at ~0.5-0.6" Z to D difference. FWIW, the Chevy Power RR recommended specs of 1-1.25" Z & 1.25" D result in from ~1/2" to ~3/4" P to R rake, so you won't be far from that.
However, unless you've very short tires, your current P of 25.5" indicates you've really slammed the nose. Two things to watch for out back when lowering very much are not to end up with the diff so low that 1) the half shafts sit at or below level from the outer stub axles towards the diff, as with any suspension travel in squat or bump dynamic alignment will move towards toe out under acceleration or during cornering; an undesirable condition, or 2) U's bind and break in squat or bump... Compensating for these issues is why you see occasional threads about raising the diff in the chassis.
However, unless you've very short tires, your current P of 25.5" indicates you've really slammed the nose. Two things to watch for out back when lowering very much are not to end up with the diff so low that 1) the half shafts sit at or below level from the outer stub axles towards the diff, as with any suspension travel in squat or bump dynamic alignment will move towards toe out under acceleration or during cornering; an undesirable condition, or 2) U's bind and break in squat or bump... Compensating for these issues is why you see occasional threads about raising the diff in the chassis.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 1
From: Beverly Massachusetts
