hey guys!
i'm at a standstill, i started to change out my steering control valve and removing the valve from the pitman arm is kicking my BUTT!!! i've using the pickle fork to pry it but not go. what i don't understand is seems like somthing needs to flex so it will come out. also, i have to get that loose before i can unscrew it? and yes i've removed the constellation nut on top of the valve. any suggestion????


thanks guys!

 

i read that a pitman arm puller is needed but which one???

 

You should try a pitman arm puller.

Edit: I was looking up steering valve so I could understand your post when you posted about the pitman arm puller.

The main thing is to get a puller that fits and fits into the area where you need to use it.

 

thanks

 

Pitman Arm puller is to remove the arm from the steering box, not the control valve. You need the correct size pickle fork and your BFH...the LFH or MFH didn't cut it for me, came apart easy with the BFH.

Pickle fork doesn't "pry", just put it in the groove and wack on it and let the taper of the fork do the job. The problem here is the angle and the clearance. The only way I could approach it was from under the DS floor pan, not from the front or the side. I have side-pipes and they were kinda in the way but there was enough of a channel to get a good hit on the fork. Be sure the fork is oriented with the flat side down which will angle the handle a little more toward the ground. If the flat side is up it will bonk on the floorpan above...brutal. Look at the fork from the side...you'll see what I mean by flat side. Be careful not to damage the seal covering the ball stud, unless of course you intend to swap it out.

I'm guessing based on your "swap out" comment that you are getting a rebuilt control valve and not trying to rebuild yourself? I ask because I started with the rebuild kits for my 79 and found the ball stud / seats/ sleeve were spent and needed to be replaced. By the time all of the rebuild kits were added up I was only ~$25 away from a warranted rebuilt control valve that also had fresh brass inserts for the flare fittings on the lines. Clearly the way to go for my project.

best of luck...keep tryin', it'll come apart,
Steve


PS: Correct me if I'm wrong but constellation nuts are insane astronomers...Castle nuts hold our cars together

 

Hi Steve! sounds good i'll get the BFH, was sure if i gave it a beat down if i doing it wrong. LOL and yeah i've got a rebuilt from VBP, no way i was rebuilding with the luck i have.

Steve, is going back with the new one easier or can i expect a fight trying to get it back on the pitman arm? in case i need a tylenol before starting. hehe

thanks agian!

 

Steve,
look at this thread... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...itman-arm.html

 

Gravy to get the Pitman arm back on...may even want to have a beer before so you're nice and relaxed. Once the valve is disconnected from the Pitman you can move the relay arm and tie rods out of the way a little to give you plenty of clearance. Just reverse for the install.

Work smart and methodically and just snug stuff up until you have it in place and fairly aligned. The valve body screws onto the relay arm until it can't go anymore. Go as far as you can, back it off until it's upright then snug the retainer bolt. Feed the Pitman arm over the stud and snug the castle nut. Then add the lines from the PS Pump (you need to tighten the big one before adding the small one because clearance is real tight). Next the cylinder lines, snugged. THEN tighten and torque the Pitman arm connection on the valve. Cotter-pin and you're set with that part

Did you redo the PS Cylinder? Hardest part of getting it off was finding the leverage to remove the castle nut from the stud...once the valve is out the steering arms move so there's nothing rigid to work against. You need to align the relay arm and tie-rod just below the lower control arm and you can use the control arm to stop the parts from moving to get it...trial and error. You'll also need to use the BFH and pickle fork to separate the cylinder stud from the relay arm.

Enjoy, Steve

 

Nicely done...I was on my way to the Auto Zone to get a small separator just like that when I opted to try the BFH with the fork I already had. Fork worked fine. I do agree with GTR though that it can damage parts, especially the rubber stud seal. The Shop Manual specifically mentions using a fork, I guess because the space in there is so tight. No doubt that the puller is the more civilized way to go, and for someone rebuilding their control valve where damage is a big concern it's probably the way to go. Since the OP has the pickle fork and he's doing a complete swap it's worth a try.

 

When I did mine, I just got a cheap air chisel from Sears & the pitman arm attachment. I've used it three times so far (every two years) including yesterday.

 

NO LUCK FOR ME TODAY. the valve wins another day, no to mention i bang up the old control valve i sure i won't get my core deposit back. and banged up is more like f^%$ed up.

i had the bFh tried to different pickle forks and no luck. different angles and still the sob still on. and i thought changing the slave cylinder on my 96 was a bear. looks like she won't make the car show this weekend.

 

Finally! the calvary showed up just when i was giving up! she ready to go!

Big thanks to Billy Dan and Charlie!

guess i wasn't putting enough @$$ behind the bfh!:o

 

If my experience was any guide, be ready to replace stuff in about 2 years. I used a rebuilt control valve, steering cylinder, from a well known parts house, and, within two years, leaking again.

To Hell with this, ordered a Jeep unit from Corvette Steering, and I am installing it now.