What method of paint stripping?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
What method of paint stripping?
Hi all,
Finally painting the' 71. Thought I was going to use chemical stripper. Started using Klean Strip Premium KS3 like someone here recommended on the smaller metal parts so far- what a pain and mess! The little grills are hard, but doesn't seem much easier on larger flat things. I have 2 layers- the original green and white that is BC/CC.
1)Does clear coat paint make it harder to strip? I've been using the chemicals w/ the temp in the 50's here.
2)Every stripper I looked at including citristrip says don't use on fiberglass- I know people have used chemical stuff successfully on here. Is there anything that actually says safe for 'glass?
3)About how much for blasting? Is it soda blasting or plastic pellets that's safe for 'glass?
4)If I sand, what kind of power tools are good- I have a compressor- and what grit or disc?
5)Is it possible to leave the original primer on and is it a good idea?
Thanks.
Finally painting the' 71. Thought I was going to use chemical stripper. Started using Klean Strip Premium KS3 like someone here recommended on the smaller metal parts so far- what a pain and mess! The little grills are hard, but doesn't seem much easier on larger flat things. I have 2 layers- the original green and white that is BC/CC.
1)Does clear coat paint make it harder to strip? I've been using the chemicals w/ the temp in the 50's here.
2)Every stripper I looked at including citristrip says don't use on fiberglass- I know people have used chemical stuff successfully on here. Is there anything that actually says safe for 'glass?
3)About how much for blasting? Is it soda blasting or plastic pellets that's safe for 'glass?
4)If I sand, what kind of power tools are good- I have a compressor- and what grit or disc?
5)Is it possible to leave the original primer on and is it a good idea?
Thanks.
Last edited by kunkle; Apr 11, 2009 at 08:46 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Parrish Alabama
I also used the razor blade method, just don't get in a hurry. Some people don't like the blade because of nicks in the body. I had a few but they were small enough that after primer and final sand you will never know it. I plan to use the Citri Strip in some areas where the blade didn't reach. I'll be watching how long I leave it on and wash it down good when I'm finished.
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Tampa FL
Hi all,
Finally painting the' 71. Thought I was going to use chemical stripper. Started using Klean Strip Premium KS3 like someone here recommended on the smaller metal parts so far- what a pain and mess! The little grills are hard, but doesn't seem much easier on larger flat things. I have 2 layers- the original green and white that is BC/CC.
1)Does clear coat paint make it harder to strip? I've been using the chemicals w/ the temp in the 50's here.
2)Every stripper I looked at including citristrip says don't use on fiberglass- I know people have used chemical stuff successfully on here. Is there anything that actually says safe for 'glass?
3)About how much for blasting? Is it soda blasting or plastic pellets that's safe for 'glass?
4)If I sand, what kind of power tools are good- I have a compressor- and what grit or disc?
5)Is it possible to leave the original primer on and is it a good idea?
Thanks.
Finally painting the' 71. Thought I was going to use chemical stripper. Started using Klean Strip Premium KS3 like someone here recommended on the smaller metal parts so far- what a pain and mess! The little grills are hard, but doesn't seem much easier on larger flat things. I have 2 layers- the original green and white that is BC/CC.
1)Does clear coat paint make it harder to strip? I've been using the chemicals w/ the temp in the 50's here.
2)Every stripper I looked at including citristrip says don't use on fiberglass- I know people have used chemical stuff successfully on here. Is there anything that actually says safe for 'glass?
3)About how much for blasting? Is it soda blasting or plastic pellets that's safe for 'glass?
4)If I sand, what kind of power tools are good- I have a compressor- and what grit or disc?
5)Is it possible to leave the original primer on and is it a good idea?
Thanks.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 780
Likes: 1
From: Shelby NC
paint removal
As was previously stated I also think the frustration bug has set in. Easily done to get that way, there is no way around the fact that taking paint off a corvette is nothing but work--especially when it has been repainted w/bc-cc. I have never tried soda blast but that maybe an option for you. I have stripped many with chemical and I am one of those that will not use a razor because it will dig out places in the glass. I use plastic body filler spreaders and coarse steel wool and thinner when I am close to the bottom. Just have an open area with good ventilation. Again soda blast might work better--either way get you a coke and a pack of cheese crackers and don't get over heated--it will go better. Good luck!
Oh, any places with body filler will have to come out and be redone if you use chemical--it contaminates the filler.
Oh, any places with body filler will have to come out and be redone if you use chemical--it contaminates the filler.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 42
From: Austin Texas
It was hard for me to wrap my head around razor blades... I bought a 100 pack and used 87. The good thing is that you can go out in the garage and just do a little at a time. You don't have to get set up or worry about clean up. Say you are about to go out to dinner, you are ready to go but the wife is messing with her make-up and hair still. She says 5 min but you know the deal. All you have to do is slide out to the shop, grab your razor blade and start scraping. Yes, you will get a gouge or two even if you are careful. Those get filled pretty easy with putty or primmer.
After the bulk of the paint is off with the blades I used a DA with nothing less than 80 and up to 400. Then bought a set of flexible sanding blocks to get the curves and details. I am no expert but for my attention span, razors worked best for me. I would try it out and see how it goes.
keep away from the corners and details...
just about the time you are ready to take up something less frustrating like ... I dont know, golf? you end up with a smooth car.
Then you can prime and block sand it for what seems like the rest of your life.
all I can say is that it is a long term project if you are by yourself. This forum is an amazing source of information and inspiration.
After the bulk of the paint is off with the blades I used a DA with nothing less than 80 and up to 400. Then bought a set of flexible sanding blocks to get the curves and details. I am no expert but for my attention span, razors worked best for me. I would try it out and see how it goes.
keep away from the corners and details...
just about the time you are ready to take up something less frustrating like ... I dont know, golf? you end up with a smooth car.
Then you can prime and block sand it for what seems like the rest of your life.
all I can say is that it is a long term project if you are by yourself. This forum is an amazing source of information and inspiration.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I used the razor blade method also. I worked at it for about a week in my garage and was well pleased with the results. Just go slowly and try not to gouge the body and you should be good to go.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
Sounds like the frustration bug bit you. I posted my opinion on your previous post before you started the stripping. I media blasted my car recently, soft plastic pellet and it cost me $500. The only drawback I had was rebuilding the surface back to smooth. The chemical way, yes is messy and takes a while to get done and a lot of stripper to use and reuse to get it down to where you want to start to prep. If you know body work go the other direction if not use a lot of stripper and elbow grease. Good luck...again!
At this rate, makes me want to paint over the first 2 layers. Thanks.
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Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
From: West Point MS
I am pretty much done with stripping my 75. It has taken me a couple of weeks, only working on it on the weekends and in my spare time. I used the razor blade method and someone recommended using a heat gun. The heat really did the trick. Some if the paint that won't come off easily basically peeled right off with the heat. The car basically had 4-6 repaints without ever being stripped. It is tedious but I haven't had any major issues with this method.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,224
Likes: 1
From: Clarksville Indiana
This guys video sold me on razor blades, not started mine yet but it looks like the way to go. I used stripper on the firewall and fenderwells.. what a friggin mess.
http://www.corvette-restoration.com/...ng%20paint.AVI
http://www.corvette-restoration.com/...ng%20paint.AVI
Pro
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 502
Likes: 6
From: Chesterfield Virginia
Another tip for razor blade stripping, take the new blades over to your grinding wheel and just barely knock off the two corners. I like to round them off so to speak. They cause the majority of gouges. This, along with a heat gun will really make your job a lot easier and cut down on the frustration level. Also cuts down on the amount of Crown Royal necessary for such projects.
Corvette Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 6,800
Likes: 2,724
From: So. Cal.
2025 C7 of the Year Finalist- Unmodified
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Blade
Another tip for razor blade stripping, take the new blades over to your grinding wheel and just barely knock off the two corners. I like to round them off so to speak. They cause the majority of gouges. This, along with a heat gun will really make your job a lot easier and cut down on the frustration level. Also cuts down on the amount of Crown Royal necessary for such projects.
Corvette Mike
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,246
Likes: 114
From: Watkins Glen NY
Another tip for razor blade stripping, take the new blades over to your grinding wheel and just barely knock off the two corners. I like to round them off so to speak. They cause the majority of gouges. This, along with a heat gun will really make your job a lot easier and cut down on the frustration level. Also cuts down on the amount of Crown Royal necessary for such projects.
Wish I would have thought of that before stripping my 68. It had 6 coats on it IIRC and I nicked it up pretty good. Great tip!
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,389
Likes: 534
Not to hijack a C3 thread for a C4's sake but can someone take a look at these picks and tell me if I'm on the right track? I've been trying the razor blade method as well and I figured the razor blade pros in this section could help out. Car was originally red and was repainted at some point. The paint is very thick in some places.
It has a weird pattern to it that looks fiberglass-like but it's also red. I'm not sure why.
What is this black stuff?
And yes I have caused a few nicks and gouges. The paint is really stubborn in some areas and not sure why. I hope I'm not screwing this up. Sorry for the picture quality. Mine isn't turning out like other examples I have seen on the forum. Am I not scraping deep enough?
It has a weird pattern to it that looks fiberglass-like but it's also red. I'm not sure why.
What is this black stuff?
And yes I have caused a few nicks and gouges. The paint is really stubborn in some areas and not sure why. I hope I'm not screwing this up. Sorry for the picture quality. Mine isn't turning out like other examples I have seen on the forum. Am I not scraping deep enough?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,820
Likes: 414
From: Pittsburgh suburbs Pa.
Razor blades will not work on all types of paint and primers. You will know as soon as you start, if you have the right type of paint. If it don't come off easy and clean, don't continue. Use Captain Lee's paint stripper. It is sometimes hard to find but it is the most corvette friendly. I have used it on many corvettes. It takes several applications to do it right and it should be cleaned with lacquer thinner between coats and thoroughly washed with soap and hot water after the last paint is removed. Follow up by wet sanding the whole car with hot water and 220 wet paper to remove any sludge residue left behind. As someone mentioned, if you do use razor blades, it is the edges that do most of the damage, so take his advice and round the edges.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
So far, the paint stripper is like a nightmare, and using a razor blade on my paint doesn't look anything at all like in the video that was posted. That paint seems to come off like Pactra waterbased paint we'd play with in art in 3rd grade! I have BC/CC on top of the original paint- I'm guessing that is half the reason I'm having such a tough time so far.
I may have hit just the thing today. Eastwood sells home use soda blasters! Cheapest is $270 on sale now. $40 for 50 lbs of soda and they hook up to a compressor. One guy here was telling me how it just cost $500 to have his done. Looks like I could do it in a day or weekend and I'll still have the equipment afterward to boot. All the stuff I could've used that on already in the past.
I may have hit just the thing today. Eastwood sells home use soda blasters! Cheapest is $270 on sale now. $40 for 50 lbs of soda and they hook up to a compressor. One guy here was telling me how it just cost $500 to have his done. Looks like I could do it in a day or weekend and I'll still have the equipment afterward to boot. All the stuff I could've used that on already in the past.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Parrish Alabama
50 lbs of media doesn't go far. I have a blast cabinet and a portable sand blaster that I have been using on the frame and small parts. I have used much more than 50 lbs. I'm not sure if it takes less with soda than sand but you could end up with several dollars in just media.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
50 lbs of media doesn't go far. I have a blast cabinet and a portable sand blaster that I have been using on the frame and small parts. I have used much more than 50 lbs. I'm not sure if it takes less with soda than sand but you could end up with several dollars in just media.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 624
Likes: 1
From: Melbourne, Fla. 6 months- New Middletown, Ohio 6 months
Have used the razor blades with the rounded edges in the past and they work great.
I agree with using a heat gun to help soften the paint. I also use a heat gun to help remove window tint.
If using a chemical stripper try covering the stripper with saran wrap. It keeps the chemicals from outgassing too quickly. Helpful when it is hot or cold.
I agree with using a heat gun to help soften the paint. I also use a heat gun to help remove window tint.
If using a chemical stripper try covering the stripper with saran wrap. It keeps the chemicals from outgassing too quickly. Helpful when it is hot or cold.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 502
Likes: 6
From: Chesterfield Virginia
I have some serious reservations about the soda blast method. Several posts here and on autobodystore.com forums have reported problems with residue and how easily the fiberglass can be damaged if extreme care is not taken. Several of my metal parts were soda blasted and they came out OK, fiberglass is a different animal. "Please" take the time to do a history search here and at autobody store. They have the best site around for restoration and any type of paint work. These two sites have saved me thousands in time and materials. Hard to beat the experts and on these forums, they are most eager to help. Take your time, ask questions, do the homework now, the results will be well worth it.
Norm
Norm