Front suspension/steering completely disassembled....now I tackle each piece inspecting, cleaning/repainting if necessary, refurbishing/replacing and, finally, installation.





Then, on to the rear suspension.

 

Don't see where you got your TPI question answered, I have done the conversion and love it. Happy to answer any questions you have. Below is my TPI "primer" updated to talk about LT1 as well.
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You have a unit
First you have to determine whether you want mass air flow or speed density. The C3 is more conducive to speed-density due to space issues. Mass-air flow is easier to make engine changes without PROM changes. If you are technically proficient enough to make a Camaro harness work they can be bought for $100 or less. I have been told that you can also use a 3.1 Corsica or Cavailier harness with a little work, it uses the same 7730 Speed-Density ECM. Aftermarket harnesses range from about $300 for Painless to $500 for Howell to $700 for Street and Performance. Howell makes a great harness, but for a Tuned Port they do not make one that will control the converter lockup on a 200R4/700R4/4L60 transmission. If you are running a manual or non-overdrive-automatic transmission I highly recommend them. I have heard great things about Street and Performance harness, but do not have first hand experience with them. I also have a Fuel Injection Specialties (FIS) harness and it is OK. The ECM can be had used for $10-50. A good external fuel pump will cost at least $100. I use an 88 Ford Truck external pump, $114 from CarQuest, made in Texas by Airtech. If you have a 78-82 you can use your fuel tank with an 82 sending unit and a TPI pump. 68-77 can also use a modified tank or Rock Valley makes a tank for these cars with a baffle and a GM internal fuel pump. Stock 82 tanks do not have a baffle contrary to popular belief. An aftermarket PROM with VATS and Emissions codes removed will be $100-200 depending on source and complexity. You will have to add an oxygen sensor to your exhaust, $20 for the sensor, $5 for the weld-in bung, and say $25 for an exhaust shop to weld it in if you can’t. Some harnesses use VSS and some do not. An auxiliary VSS sensor is around $75. I recommend using VSS to get better drivability. To install a TPI I say figure at least $800 plus the TPI unit and whatever repairs are necessary to bring it up to useable status. I have TPI/700R4 in my 69 Corvette (Howell harness) and an 83 Pickup (FIS harness) and I love it. Starts good, great torque, good fuel mileage, easy to swap onto stock engines (although both of mine are complete engines out of 90/91 ‘Vettes).

Differences in years
All Corvette TPI intake manifolds work with the older (through 86) iron heads and the factory aluminum heads through 91. F-body TPI intakes use the upright center bolts on 87-92 and thus fit all 87-95 iron heads (non LT1). Either can be swapped to fit the other with some drilling. F-body has the fuel lines come out on the drivers side and has a central port for EGR. Corvette has fuel lines that come out on the passenger side and has an external port for EGR. Corvette fuel rails fit F-body intakes and vise-versa. The runners are all the same through the years, but the LH runner has a hole for a 9th injector in the 85-88 runners. This can be plugged off if you get a nice LH runner and don’t want the 9th injector or decide to run speed-density. The plenums all physically interchange, but 90-92 have an extra vacuum port for the MAP sensor used with the speed-density computers and wiring. 89 is an odd year, it is mass-air flow but without the 9th injector. 89 up throttle bodies can be used on all years, but a 85-88 throttle body requires a ½” hole be drilled in the front of a 89-92 Plenum for idle air. 89-92 Throttle bodies have a more desirable cable attachment. The cable attaches around a circular linkage which has a smoother actuation than the straight linkage on the 85-88. The Corvettes have an aluminum plenum extension over the distributor, the F-body extensions are plastic. The Corvettes use an HEI coil-in-cap distributor for 85-91 (Delco 1103680). 85-86 F-body also used a big-cap distributor. 87-92 F-Body used a small cap distributor with an external coil (Delco 1103479). This same distributor is used in the 87-95 5.0/5.7/7.4 TBI injected trucks and pre-LT1 B-body. The F-body intake gets it's exhaust for EGR from the center passages in the heads like most SB Chevys. A Corvette intake gets it's EGR exhaust from the RH exhaust manifold/header through a flex-tube to an opening near the distributor-no center passages in the intake. If you are required to keep EGR and you have a Corvette intake, I recommend getting the C4 exhaust manifolds. They are like mini-headers, and have a 2 1/2" outlet. I have them on my 69 and like them.

As far as a throttle cable to use, on my Vette, I used a TPI Corvette cable, 1990 I think (now discontinued from GM) but you have to cut the end off inside the car and use a hood-release-cable end (Corvette Central 342138 "cable stop") to get it the correct cable length (the housing is OK). You must use a cable from the type car your throttle body came from if you want to have a chance of not cutting it. Again, 85-88 use a straight pull, while 89-92 have a circular attachment for more smooth actuation and so the inner cable is longer. On my 83 truck I used a TPI F-Body cable and it was OK, but I had to coil it up into a loop in the engine compartment because the housing was so long. I also TPI'd a 72 Chevy truck and used a 90 350 TBI truck cable for it. It was 1/2" short outside if anything, but I was pretty pleased with it all told-I didn't have to shorten it. In a Vette it might be about right. In all vehicles I've done you need a die grinder to square the firewall hole off a bit. All vehicles I've done used the late throttle-body.

I would look into a TPI. They start immediately in winter, have great vacuum, and will get great mileage. I can open the headlights and the wiper door at the same time with no hesitation at all-solid wooomp. With 3.70 gears (and a 700R4 overdrive) I get 18mpg city and 22+ highway. With 3.55 or 3.36 it would be even better. You can probably find a used Corvette TPI engine for $1000 and with an $800 harness/computer/fuel pump you would be set. On a 78-82 you can use the stock fuel tank with an 82 sending unit and TPI pump and be in better shape than 68-77 with an external pump. With the Vette TPI you would have aluminum heads that would remove weight. Even with an F-body iron-head TPI 350 it will be less weight than a stock intake. It will bolt up to everything in your car, use stock accessories, use your transmission, and the visual appeal is awesome. Don't be afraid of fuel injection, it really works.

As far as websites see:
www.corvettefaq.com for conversions or more TPI info at www.fuelinjection.com also www.jagsthatrun.com for misc hard to find conversion parts and info.

LT1
Not to get to deep into the differences in LT1s, there are basically 3 variations. There is the C4 ('92-96) and an F-body ('93-97) version which are 5.7L and have aluminum heads. There is a B-body ('94-96) which is 5.7L with iron heads that actually flow better than stock aluminum heads. There is also a 4.3L B-body (L99) version that you want to stay away from. There is an LT4 in '96 that is an upgraded LT1. All are dimensionally the same as far as bolt-ons. Corvette engines have 4-bolt mains, all others have 2-bolt. All are cast iron blocks. An LT1 is a very similar installation to a TPI. As far as the mechanical installation, the 700R4 and 4L60E transmissions are the same (same length, same basic dimension, mounting, yoke, etc.). You have to have a computer to run a 4L60E which you will have for the engine anyway. As far as the engine, an LT1 will bolt in and can use the same exhaust although you may want to use C4 LT1 manifolds to get true 2 1/2" outlets. The biggest difference between a TPI and an LT1 installation is accessories. TPI can use stock C3 accessories. LT1 has to use LT1 accessories and really needs C4 LT1 accessories. Both F-body and B-body put the a/c compressor low on the passenger side. This interferes with the frame and the right motor mount. You have to use electric fans on an LT1, there are no provisions for a mechanical fan (B-body has an optional one, but it is offset and won't work in a C3). The other difference is in air intake, most LT1s are mass air flow. Again, it is difficult to locate the MAF sensor in a C3. You are better to have it set up for speed-density. In a '78-'82 C3 you could still use an '82 sending unit but an LT1 fuel pump instead. You will want to stay with programming for an OBD1 (pre-'96) style setup, without multiple oxygen sensors. '96-'97 OBD2 engines are fine, you just don't use all the sensors. LT1 requires a custom radiator because of how the hoses run. There are differences in the Optispark, later is better and if you swap to a later cam you can add the later vented Optispark setup. The water pumps are bad to fail and wet the Optispark, so always replace the water pump when you do a swap. LT1s have better top end power that TPIs, but all things considered I'd rather stay with TPI for a cruiser or mild build-I just like the look and the low end torque. If you want more power, LT1 is better; or just step up to an LSx.

 

Thanks - I printed it to study later...since I'm new to Corvettes (& US iron overall), it'll take a bit as I fight through some of the acronyms...I know I have a complete '86 TPI with 700R4 transmission out of an '86 Corvette (everything hanging on engine, complete wiring harness & computer)....so, I'm assuming I have iron heads (bolts around the edge of the valve covers, not through their centers).

I've found someone who'll modify the electronics I have to work in my '77....I was thinking about using an Airtex E 2000 fuel pump...am getting rid of all emissions.

Would love your thoughts, though, as I get into it.

My plan is to complete the rolling chassis then clean/repaint my engine/trans & get them mounted in the chassis before reinstalling the body.

Would a '78 fuel tank drop onto my chassis?

Do I need to keep that 1 fuel vapor pipe that runs down the driverside of the chassis?

 

I know I have a complete '86 TPI with 700R4 transmission out of an '86 Corvette (everything hanging on engine, complete wiring harness & computer)....so, I'm assuming I have iron heads (bolts around the edge of the valve covers, not through their centers).

--The aluminum heads did start in '86 so you do have aluminum heads if it is a Corvette engine. Not sure when they changed to center bolt style valve covers, maybe '88? You will need a new transmission crossmember to use the 700R4, see www.bowtieoverdrives.com for swap info. You may also want their shifter kit. You will have to shorten the driveshaft. There is much info on here about that swap, do a search.

I've found someone who'll modify the electronics I have to work in my '77....I was thinking about using an Airtex E 2000 fuel pump...am getting rid of all emissions.

--Sounds good. I think that is the same pump I used. '88 Ford truck external pump. As far as emissions, I would delete EGR, but keep canister purge. You may have issues if you don't. You have to have a vented tank if you delete canister purge and there is not a cap available in vented for the mid '70s cars. Are you using the '86 computer and staying Mass Air Flow, or changing to the later style Speed Density?

My plan is to complete the rolling chassis then clean/repaint my engine/trans & get them mounted in the chassis before reinstalling the body.

--Good plan

Would a '78 fuel tank drop onto my chassis?

--No, with the new redesigned back end in '78 the top of the tank moves and you cannot use a '78-82 tank in a '77 back C3. Rock Valley makes a very nice '68-'77 tank with internal GM pump but it is not cheap.

Do I need to keep that 1 fuel vapor pipe that runs down the driverside of the chassis?

--Yes, if you keep canister purge.

 

See, now I'm getting somewhere!

YEAH on the aluminum heads!

I've got a trans crossmember & shifter kit on order...local driveshaft place will shorten mine.

& I'll leave the purge line in place.

Am using the '86 computer and staying Mass Air Flow.....am using the '86 TPI exhaust manifolds (unless I decide to go w/Hooker side exhaust system).

After I peruse your write-up, I'll have more questions.

Oh, what is the '86 Corvette TPI engine called? An L-98?

 

Yes, the 5.7L TPI engine in the C4 is an L98. I have those manifolds on mine

 

So, other than the location of the valve cover bolts (mine are around the edge of the cover), are there any differences I need to know about?

Also, why didn't you use the C4 air cleaner?

 

I've bought Stainless Steel Brake Corporation (SSBC) aluminum clipers for both my 68 and 70. I really like them, they look almost exactly like the original Delco Moraine cast iron units, and they are much lighter. I think SSBC calls them their Force 10 calipers.

Also, SSBC sells cad plated rotors. They are a little expensive, but they not being as prone to rust, they look a lot nicer.

I have all SS brake lines, brake line fittings (In-Line Tube). My 68 MC was restored by Paragon. I just boughta aluminum billet MC from SSBC. As for brake line outputs and mounting dimensions, it's dimensionally the same as the original Delco Marraine MC.

 

Nice buy and it's great to see the progress you're making with restoring your car keep up the good work

 

I would really like to see some of the before & after's on the MG's... I can only guess that you were as detailed with them as you seem to be with the Vette... I have a 67 Midget as part of my stable....

 

No real differences not covered in my install guide

I didn't use the C4 air cleaner because you have to modify the core support a good deal and it limits the amount the hood will open to go that way. I would like cold air, I'm still thinking about how to do it easily.

 

So, back to my chassis rebuild......finally got the front coil springs compressed between my rebuilt A-arms with new shocks installed...WHEW!

Next, I'll install my rebuilt steering knuckles, new rotors & rebuilt calipers along with new hard & soft brake lines.....&, today, all the parts to rebuild my power steering arrived.

Front end should be finished by mid-week (am waiting on sway bar bushings as my kit had the wrong size) in it.







But, first, I've got to drill out the rivets to separate the old rotors from the hubs!

 

Been a long time since I've updated the thread but lots has happened.

First thing is my photo software in my laptop computer is corrupted so until I get it solved, I can't post photos.

However, the front suspension/brakes/power steering are all finished and brand new. If it is a wearable item, it was replaced.....matter of fact, nothing from the old power steering was reused!

I've also added all the bumper frame supports out to the 5mph waffle bumper backing & run new fuel lines from front to rear.

As of today, both rear halfshafts are out for u-joint replacement, the old shocks are out & the trailing arms are out....the passenger one was bent at some time so I have a new one on order....oh, I saved both of the lower shock absorber mounts (the "L" ones that also handle the trailing arms also).

Tomorrow I'll drop the differential & get it to the shop that's going to open it up & go through it.

Tomorrow, I'll also tackle removing the trailing arms & disassembling the bearings/hubs for refurbishing as needed ...the trailing arm assembly on the passenger side really swung outward when I removed the half shaft - about 2" - so I'm worried about it.

Photos when I fix my computer.

Now, my question: should my 1977 have a rear anti-sway bar?

 

Brings back memories of a high school friend who's father had a '74 454 4sp. Vette and a '69 MGC. We would wash and wax the Vette and make a beer run for him to drive the Vette on Sat. nights. Sweet deal.

 

Only if it has the optional FE-7 Hi-Perf. Sus. which has a larger front
1 1/8" bar & 7 leaf rear spring etc.

Sounds like you are making good progress.

 

Thanks, Ganey....mine has a 7/8" front bar & 9 leafs in the rear spring.

 

You say you are 63??? I don't beleive that for a moment!! Not with all your energy!!! When I am 63, I will probably be on some stupid ventilator!!!

 

Rear suspension is out & disassembled/painted for rebuild...have already installed new crossmember bushings in the frame crossmember that holds the differential & new bushings in the strut rod; installed new differential mount kit in the front differential carrier while the differental itself is at a friend's shop being gone completely through; have new u-joints in both half shafts & my trailing arms are totally disassembled for new bearings, dust shields, park brake mechanisms, bushings, etc. I don't ever want to have to disassemble another trailing arm...I just hope reassembly goes easier!

Spring is out, painted & disassembled awaiting new strips between each leaf. Oh, & I ordered a rear 3/4" stabilizer bar kit since my car never had one.

My laptop should come back from the shop tomorrow so I can get some photos posted.....meanwhile, I'm going to take my 3-year-old grandson to DisneyWorld this weekend.

 

Man, who's NOT jealous of this guy?!?!?!?!?! Whompin' through an awesome body-off at high speed, and still has time to take the grandkid to Disney World?

 

Then you will need a larger front bar!