Is this Radiator ok? [pics]
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Lindenhurst, Long Island, New York
Is this Radiator ok? [pics]
Hey guys,
I'm doing a core support replacement and finally pulled out everything today. However, my radiator looks a little sickly compared what I hoped it would be. It doesn't appear to leak, and could use a hose down, but what do you guys think? If you need more pics, I can get more, just specify what you would like. Keep in mind I plan on going for an Aluminum radiator once I do my LSx swap, but they may be a ways away. I was really hoping to keep this one until then.
Back:
Front:
Driver tank:
Passenger Tank:
It looks ok, but not great. What do you guys think?
I'm doing a core support replacement and finally pulled out everything today. However, my radiator looks a little sickly compared what I hoped it would be. It doesn't appear to leak, and could use a hose down, but what do you guys think? If you need more pics, I can get more, just specify what you would like. Keep in mind I plan on going for an Aluminum radiator once I do my LSx swap, but they may be a ways away. I was really hoping to keep this one until then.
Back:
Front:
Driver tank:
Passenger Tank:
It looks ok, but not great. What do you guys think?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,422
Likes: 591
From: McHenry Illinois
Looks kind of rough. Every one of those fins that are bent over blocks a little air flow. It's a good idea to protect the core with some cardboard while getting the shroud inand out. I would pressure test it before going to the trouble of putting it back in.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 10,628
Likes: 132
From: Duvall, WA
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 1
From: Port Clinton Ohio
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
That looks pretty rough to me. I think I would look into having it re-cored or replace it with a DeWitts. Then you won't have to worry about driving on the hot summer days that are coming.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Take it to a good rad shop and ask them to look it over and make recommendation on whether it is still servicable. Even if the core is bad, they can re-solder the tanks/fittings to a new core and make it like new...for less than a new radiator. It will still work like the original radiator though...not like a higher capacity new aluminum unit.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
and if you want to re-core it with a "correct" copper core, we have those too
Click below for a list of copper/brass items
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/categor...s.asp?catID=16
Click below for a list of copper/brass items
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/categor...s.asp?catID=16
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 2
From: gold coast queensland
if it doesnt leak , keeps your car below 190 and your doing a new lsx swap in the next 3 years ...hang in till then and get a dewiits to suit that motor. but before you go alloy do yourself a favour and get an electrolysis/stray current test.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Lindenhurst, Long Island, New York
Thanks for all of your responses.
Yes, the bent fins alarmed me as well. I'm not positive I did the bending on some of those, but it very well could have been. I did read about people using cardboard, but had no idea what for. I guess I know now, huh. As far as the radiator working, it keeps the car at about 200º during cooler days and on 90°+ days she stays at 220-225°. I've never worried about it before, until seeing how rough it is. I'm not sure how clogged it was before, either. I'll look into finding a good radiator shop nearby and have it looked at. If it looks positive, I'll straighten the fins and milk it for the next few years.
Tom Dewitt,
If this current radiator of mine doesn't pan out, could I run one of your LSx swap radiators with my L48 for now?
Thanks again guys.
Yes, the bent fins alarmed me as well. I'm not positive I did the bending on some of those, but it very well could have been. I did read about people using cardboard, but had no idea what for. I guess I know now, huh. As far as the radiator working, it keeps the car at about 200º during cooler days and on 90°+ days she stays at 220-225°. I've never worried about it before, until seeing how rough it is. I'm not sure how clogged it was before, either. I'll look into finding a good radiator shop nearby and have it looked at. If it looks positive, I'll straighten the fins and milk it for the next few years.
Tom Dewitt,
If this current radiator of mine doesn't pan out, could I run one of your LSx swap radiators with my L48 for now?
Thanks again guys.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Lindenhurst, Long Island, New York
I didn't think it was all that bad. And like I said, on the worst of days that's the highest I've ever seen it. It is normally around 210°. My seals seemed ok, but I have new ones for my swap, so that should help. Maybe I should replace the thermostat, but I'm not sure what I have in it. All of my air dams, shrouds and the like are whole and fit well. Apparently my coolant resevoir wasn't hooked up properly either. Let's not forget she'll get fresh coolant. What was in there was kinda nasty.
That actually brings up a good point. To do a quick flush of my system and get most of the old coolant out, Could I fill my system with water, run the engine, let her cool, then drain the radiator, then fill her with coolant and water (on the strong side to compensate for the extra water in the block) to balance it out? I didn't realize how bad my coolant was until now. Or is dat Bubba talkin' in mah ear? Apparently my coolant resevoir wasn't hooked up properly either...
That actually brings up a good point. To do a quick flush of my system and get most of the old coolant out, Could I fill my system with water, run the engine, let her cool, then drain the radiator, then fill her with coolant and water (on the strong side to compensate for the extra water in the block) to balance it out? I didn't realize how bad my coolant was until now. Or is dat Bubba talkin' in mah ear? Apparently my coolant resevoir wasn't hooked up properly either...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 1
From: Port Clinton Ohio
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
230 - 240 degrees is when head gaskets start to blow. You need to get it down to a consistant 180 - 190. 210 is way too hot for a normal temp in my opinion. You need to have that radiator re-cored or get a new one. Also put in a new 180 degree thermostat and a new water pump. It would be a good idea to fill it with water and let it run a while, then drain it and put in the coolant. Also, Prestone and other companies make a flush solution to put in when you do this to help clean it out.
In any car, your number one priority is to keep it full of oil (with good oil pressure). Second priority is too keep it cool.
In any car, your number one priority is to keep it full of oil (with good oil pressure). Second priority is too keep it cool.
Last edited by Jeffery73; Apr 27, 2009 at 08:33 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If it only had water in it, just find out what the capacity of your system is and make sure you put 1/2 of the cooling system capacity of antifreeze in the radiator. Run it to get the stat to open and purge the air from the system (with rad cap OFF), then top it off with plain water. You should have close to a 50/50 mix at that point. Changing the stat will NOT hurt your engine...but it may or may not lower the operating temp of the engine. 180F is optimum running temp for a Chevy SB V8; cars with ECU's likely require 195F stats to function properly. Good luck.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Lindenhurst, Long Island, New York
Well I stand corrected guys, thanks. I just wish I didn't hear this now, but better then after a cooked engine. I'll spring for the Tstat and I'll look into a new water pump. Any benefit into getting an aluminum pump? It should be a short snout pump right? This is a '75 L48.
Looks like I'm in the market for a new rad. I'll see what the local places want for a re-core. Or a new one. I'm starting to dislike driving Pandora's box
I'll do the flush too to try and eliminate the old stuff. Maybe a few cycles instead of just one like I originally planned.
7T1vette,
I'm a little concerned about the advice you gave involving purging the system with air. When you say have the rad cap off, do you mean open, but still on the rad or completely remove the cap as in have the cap on the floor? And on that same line of thought, do I need to fill the water pump with water/coolant to make sure the pump doesn't bind with air or is just filling the radiator with water/coolant sufficient until the system runs and purges? Just want to make sure I don't screw this up more.
Thanks again guys. I don't know what I would do without the knowledge of this forum.
Looks like I'm in the market for a new rad. I'll see what the local places want for a re-core. Or a new one. I'm starting to dislike driving Pandora's box
I'll do the flush too to try and eliminate the old stuff. Maybe a few cycles instead of just one like I originally planned.
7T1vette,
I'm a little concerned about the advice you gave involving purging the system with air. When you say have the rad cap off, do you mean open, but still on the rad or completely remove the cap as in have the cap on the floor? And on that same line of thought, do I need to fill the water pump with water/coolant to make sure the pump doesn't bind with air or is just filling the radiator with water/coolant sufficient until the system runs and purges? Just want to make sure I don't screw this up more.
Thanks again guys. I don't know what I would do without the knowledge of this forum.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 1
From: Port Clinton Ohio
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
You don't need to fill the water pump before installing it.
When you start it up after filling it with water/coolant, leave the cap off so you can see what's going on. When it warms up and the thermostat opens, you will see the level in the radiator go down quickly. Continue to add more until it the level stays up near the top.
I would hook the overflow tank back up soon. This provides some insurance. If the radiator gets low, it will suck coolant out of the overflow to keep it full.
When you start it up after filling it with water/coolant, leave the cap off so you can see what's going on. When it warms up and the thermostat opens, you will see the level in the radiator go down quickly. Continue to add more until it the level stays up near the top.
I would hook the overflow tank back up soon. This provides some insurance. If the radiator gets low, it will suck coolant out of the overflow to keep it full.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Lindenhurst, Long Island, New York
Hey guys, I have another question. I may have a potential radiator I can pick up from fellow forum member. It is '75, just like mine, however, it is for an A/C and Mine is not. I already have a new core support which I bought many months ago, so returning it is out of the question. Will the radiator still fit or am I SOL? Thanks guys.