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Floor pan replacement

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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 05:54 PM
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Default Floor pan replacement

Can anyone tell me how tough it is to replace a floor pan. I was changing seats out on my 76 and noticed floor rust. Can a new floor pan be rivited in or do they have to be welded? Any info would be appreciated.
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 06:09 PM
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Welded is the best way. Is the whole pan gone or does it just need a patch in one spot? We just had rust isolated to one area.

http://blog.scottsvettetalk.com/2007...oor-panel.aspx
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 06:22 PM
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thanks for info. Most of rear drivers side is rusted so I think its best to replace whole pan and get it over with.
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:01 PM
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During winter I replaced both sides and welded them in place. I suggest making cut after you get the new floor pan so you know how much to leave for welding. Strongly suggest you use a strait edge from both sills to measure where the seat bolt are to get the height proper. Used abrasive cut off wheel to make the cuts. You have pop rivets in back and front. Only difficult issue was where the floor pan meets the side rails.
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:37 PM
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Good info above. Similar to above and how I do it. Others may have different methods but this works for me. I've done a few sets of pans and it's not really a lot of fun but there are worse things.

Tools:
Drill and either a Roto-broach (5/26" hole saw) or drill bit.
Hammer (big one)
Flat blade chisel (helps to break drilled out spot welds free)
Sawzall or Plasma Cutter or Cutoff wheel
Welder
Rivet Gun
Seam Sealer
Primer/paint

Strip out seats and carpet. It's easier with the body off but can be done with the body on.

A Sawzall or Plasma cutter can be very helpful

Drill out spot rivets on outer side. Mark and cut tunnel on inside

Drill out rivets in the front where the metal meets the fiberglass firewall/Toe board.

Test fit new pan and mark inner edge

Cut new pan to fit in open area leaving abit of a lip overlap.

Drill 1/4" holes along the perimeter of the new pan. You don't need many as the pan will fit in there pretty snug if you don't cut too much.

Use a good cleaner and make sure surfaces areas are VERY clean for welding (could also be riveted but would be much harder)

OPtional - Weld through primer if welding. Protects surface from rusting where it's layered over.

Spot weld or rivet in place. When welding don't do too many close to each other. Work from one side to the other. Creates less heat and chance of warping.

USe seam sealer and seal all around the perimeter

Prime/paint and put back together

Note you could also butt-weld the new pans to the old floor. PRoblem with that is the new pan must EXACTLY match the hole cut out for it. Welds must be good so you don't end up with the seats on the ground.






















Last edited by 78Vette-SA; Apr 29, 2009 at 11:42 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 02:57 PM
  #6  
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From: pensacola fl
Default floor pan install

Great info from everyone. I will do it right and try not t half a-- it. This forum is always the best for help

Thanks again,
sweeet76
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