Rear Sway bar help
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,889
Likes: 23
From: Kansas
The sway bar needs to be on top of the bracket, no spacers at the frame. You also will find that it will be hard to start your caliper bolts with the sway bar bracket in the way. Post # 13 with the sway bar is the right way to install, # 16 is not right, Ck With Mr. Charlie on this. He is the Man on Suspension. Gene
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,961
Likes: 573
From: Lompoc, CA. Santa Barbara County
The sway bar needs to be on top of the bracket, no spacers at the frame. You also will find that it will be hard to start your caliper bolts with the sway bar bracket in the way. Post # 13 with the sway bar is the right way to install, # 16 is not right, Ck With Mr. Charlie on this. He is the Man on Suspension. Gene
I was only trying to show him how to mount the bracket. You can read more about my sway bar mods in my signature. No problem with the caliper bolts.
Bee Jay
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Lindenhurst, Long Island, New York
Vette79C3, yes, the example you sight should be better balanced F/R than would the OP's combo with those same bars, but I still question the use of such a large rear bar in lieu of a firmer rear spring and/or 7/16" bar. IMCO spring choices should come first (the harder you intend to run the more important this item becomes), then however much bar(s) as necessary to augment roll resistance and tune balance.
It happens that with my 860# coils (after clipping them I'm at ~900#) I needn't rely on a huge bar as is commonly thought of as the "norm", and thus have more front grip available owing to less lateral weight transfer. Those big springs also contribute to anti-dive, as well as anti-bottoming, btw. My shark's weight distribution is subject to significant change while it's being made over, so I'll likely be testing rear spring rates again to re-balance it, for me.
As for balance, IMCO perfectly neutral steady state cornering balance isn't quite the holy grail it's exalted to be, as much depends on the car, it's intended purpose and the driver's style and ability. Just how often does one find themselves hustling around a skid pad, anyway(?) Tuning has a lot to do with managing transitions. Also, a car which seems nimble and "perfectly neutral" when pressed to 7/10ths of its potential may suddenly become diabolical at ~10/10ths, not to mention if/when you're suddenly forced to give up the throttle mid-corner.
It happens that with my 860# coils (after clipping them I'm at ~900#) I needn't rely on a huge bar as is commonly thought of as the "norm", and thus have more front grip available owing to less lateral weight transfer. Those big springs also contribute to anti-dive, as well as anti-bottoming, btw. My shark's weight distribution is subject to significant change while it's being made over, so I'll likely be testing rear spring rates again to re-balance it, for me.
As for balance, IMCO perfectly neutral steady state cornering balance isn't quite the holy grail it's exalted to be, as much depends on the car, it's intended purpose and the driver's style and ability. Just how often does one find themselves hustling around a skid pad, anyway(?) Tuning has a lot to do with managing transitions. Also, a car which seems nimble and "perfectly neutral" when pressed to 7/10ths of its potential may suddenly become diabolical at ~10/10ths, not to mention if/when you're suddenly forced to give up the throttle mid-corner.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 699
Likes: 3
From: Millersville, MD
Vette79C3, yes, the example you sight should be better balanced F/R than would the OP's combo with those same bars, but I still question the use of such a large rear bar in lieu of a firmer rear spring and/or 7/16" bar. IMCO spring choices should come first (the harder you intend to run the more important this item becomes), then however much bar(s) as necessary to augment roll resistance and tune balance.
It happens that with my 860# coils (after clipping them I'm at ~900#) I needn't rely on a huge bar as is commonly thought of as the "norm", and thus have more front grip available owing to less lateral weight transfer. Those big springs also contribute to anti-dive, as well as anti-bottoming, btw. My shark's weight distribution is subject to significant change while it's being made over, so I'll likely be testing rear spring rates again to re-balance it, for me.
As for balance, IMCO perfectly neutral steady state cornering balance isn't quite the holy grail it's exalted to be, as much depends on the car, it's intended purpose and the driver's style and ability. Just how often does one find themselves hustling around a skid pad, anyway(?) Tuning has a lot to do with managing transitions. Also, a car which seems nimble and "perfectly neutral" when pressed to 7/10ths of its potential may suddenly become diabolical at ~10/10ths, not to mention if/when you're suddenly forced to give up the throttle mid-corner.
It happens that with my 860# coils (after clipping them I'm at ~900#) I needn't rely on a huge bar as is commonly thought of as the "norm", and thus have more front grip available owing to less lateral weight transfer. Those big springs also contribute to anti-dive, as well as anti-bottoming, btw. My shark's weight distribution is subject to significant change while it's being made over, so I'll likely be testing rear spring rates again to re-balance it, for me.
As for balance, IMCO perfectly neutral steady state cornering balance isn't quite the holy grail it's exalted to be, as much depends on the car, it's intended purpose and the driver's style and ability. Just how often does one find themselves hustling around a skid pad, anyway(?) Tuning has a lot to do with managing transitions. Also, a car which seems nimble and "perfectly neutral" when pressed to 7/10ths of its potential may suddenly become diabolical at ~10/10ths, not to mention if/when you're suddenly forced to give up the throttle mid-corner.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Thanks. My configuration does incorporate a larger front sway bar (1.125) and a custom rear sway bar (.75) with OEM springs and nice bilstein shocks. I have noticed that the rear end is a little looser. Curious if this configuration is the "Norm" or even if I am gaining anything over the stock setup?
The Bilsteins are almost always a good call, but I'd urge that you leave some margin for error on the street if you're already noticing it being looser. FWIW, I wouldn't worry with what is the "norm", rather with what actually works for you.
