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Aftermarket 80' Dash Pad?

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Old May 11, 2009 | 02:05 PM
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Default Aftermarket 80' Dash Pad?

Anyone else had issues installing their new dash pad? Purchased it from Ecklers back in January, finally gettin' around to installing it and the stinkin' thing's a B! The quality's seems cheaper that the orignal, not as thick/heavy duty, doesn't want to fit properly. Can't say as I'm all that surpriseed, the way these things usually go, but $500 later you'd think it better than this...

Anyone else have similar issues, perhaps a trick of the trade to make it fit more original? Maybe I just got a bad one?
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Old May 11, 2009 | 06:12 PM
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I have been there also when it comes to installing all of the vents, speedo/tach cluster, glove box door and even the speaker grilles. Due to it being a vacuum formed piece, it has everything to do with who is making it and if they care enough to make sure that certian areas have extra special attention. The plastic is way to thin and I use the new style "hi-low" thread screws when I am installing one so I know that parts are installed correctly and the screws won't pull out. It all depends when I am drilling the plastic and "feel" how deep the bit goes before it breaks through the other side. I have had to dig out the foam so the side vents will actually work and have had to make spacers to position it correctly. I aslo install clips so the upper screws that secure the speedo/tach cluster to the dash will actually work correctly. It is alot of trimming, fitting and BS!!! But at least they area available. I will have about 4-5 hours in getting one fitted, but the area that I hate the most and gives me the most trouble is where the two screws that secure the dash to the hinge pillar area. The vinyl is molded incorrectly and the finished edge is a pain for me to correct and make it look like factory. A total re-thinking is needed when you are installing one of these pieces. I deal with parts that are so often times engineered to 95%, and then it take 95% of my time to get it right. All I can advise is to take your time and don't get upset. GMC "DUB"
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Old May 11, 2009 | 06:17 PM
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Put it out in the HOT sun for a couple hours before trying to install it.

Gary
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Old May 11, 2009 | 07:28 PM
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i am in the same boat right now with an 81 pad from wilcooooooxxxxxx!!!!!!!!!!. so much trouble with them lately. doesnt fit anywhere at all
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Old May 11, 2009 | 09:55 PM
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Thanks for the responses...

ON A SEPERATE NOTE
anyone ever use any of the dyes out there? I'm looking at Ecklers, Mid America, Corvette Central and Riks...all of whom have their own coloring brands. Any positive/negatives?
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Old May 11, 2009 | 11:01 PM
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I've used Mid-America dye in a can. It worked great and color match was perfect. Just make sure you buy the prep if your spraying plastic and the cover coat.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 06:34 AM
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I dyed half the interior from tan to black and then installed a new dash pad. Got it from Corvette America but I would imagine they are all made at the same place.

It took some doing with the Glove Box being the most difficult. I laid the old one side-by-side with the new one and just worked my way across. There are little dimples for the screw holes but for the most part I just fit things to it and screwed them in where needed. I bought a trim screw kit and used those isntead of using the factory style. I think they may be a little longer and some cases a little fatter so with some doing it came together.





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Old May 12, 2009 | 06:11 PM
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Joe Buck, Just remember that the prep on the parts that you are dying is THE MOST important step. Making SURE that the part is ABSOLUTELY clean and free of any interior protectants that are out on the market, i.e. "son of a gun", "armor all" and yes even baby oil. There are specific products out there on the professional level that can properly clean your parts so the "dye" can be applied. I have used all of the major brands that are out there and I have even mixed my own due to the paint system I have in my shop it allows me to convert my pigments into sprayable vinyl dye. So I really do not have a preferance because to me they are all the same. They are in aerosol form so none of them have a special blend that makes them better than the other because they are not being activated with a catalyst. So it doesn't matter. How much you apply does matter though. And yes, the dye lots can be off when you go from one can to the other beacause, errors do occur during processing and they are not going to throw out a batch for minor differences. Not in this economy. There are aslo adhesion promoters that allow you to apply it to what you are going to dye before the dye is applied. But again, it HAS to be clean. Operating room clean...if you know what I mean or it will flake off in time. Depending on the system that you choose, often times---like my system--- when a part is prepped you MUST get product on it quickly because when it is cleaned, the pores of the vinyl are open ready for the next product. If the vinyl is allowed to sit , for lets say 1/2 hour, The vinyl is being contaminated due to surrounding enviromental substances. Such as pollen, dust, car exhaust, etc. This 1/1,000,000 of an inch of contamination is what will get you in the long run and cause an undesireable result. Ask any car painter you know on how hard it is to paint a urethane bumper cover that comes to him/her that WAS NOT factory primed and you see that I AM speaking from experience. So dying interior plastics and vinyl is no different and if anybody says otherwise....well they are not looking out for your best interests. GMC "DUB"
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