radiator install problem
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Lindenhurst, Long Island, New York
To clarify the earlier post.
When putting in the rad, loosely, have only the lower 2 side bolts in the core support. Remove the larger ones at the very bottom.
Tilt the top of the core support toward the front of the car and slide the rad in, then slide the shroud in behind it.
Then tilt the rad and coresupport into position and install the other 4 side bolts.
No need to remove the hood.
When the 6 side bolts are tight on the core support, put the 2x4 under the core support and gently jack up as far as it will go and install the 2 larger bottom bolts. The brackets are slotted for adjustment where needed. This will close your gaps at the front of the door as original and keep the front end from staying in a sagging position.
Lastly install the center rod from the core support to the headlight mount bar bolt up the shroud.
Use 100% antifreeze as a lubricant for the hoses. You won't find anything any slippier, but the bottom one is a PITA. Coonect to the rad first, then the WPump.
When putting in the rad, loosely, have only the lower 2 side bolts in the core support. Remove the larger ones at the very bottom.
Tilt the top of the core support toward the front of the car and slide the rad in, then slide the shroud in behind it.
Then tilt the rad and coresupport into position and install the other 4 side bolts.
No need to remove the hood.
When the 6 side bolts are tight on the core support, put the 2x4 under the core support and gently jack up as far as it will go and install the 2 larger bottom bolts. The brackets are slotted for adjustment where needed. This will close your gaps at the front of the door as original and keep the front end from staying in a sagging position.
Lastly install the center rod from the core support to the headlight mount bar bolt up the shroud.
Use 100% antifreeze as a lubricant for the hoses. You won't find anything any slippier, but the bottom one is a PITA. Coonect to the rad first, then the WPump.
Thanks again guys!
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,802
Likes: 61
From: Wichita KS
No, I haven't forgotten that problem! I only bolted the middle side bolt and tightened the bottom two. That was for stability. I just hope I have some wood around that's long enough and not slated for anything else. I just hope it works and I can slide on my hoses with the shroud in the car (not tighten of course).
That reminds me, Can I grease up the hoses for them to slide onto the radiator better or am I just asking for leaks?
That reminds me, Can I grease up the hoses for them to slide onto the radiator better or am I just asking for leaks?
cc
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Lindenhurst, Long Island, New York
Update
Well, the shroud turned out to be the easy part
10 minutes and it was in. I found turning it 90 degrees so the driver side was down then turning it correctly in place seemed to line everything up. Then you just pull and push and pull again until things pop into place. I wound up having more trouble with the side bolts to the core support because I took out all of the side bolts with the bottom bolts and the bolts that hold the 2 'L' brackets in place loose for flexibility. Seemed to give me a whole lot more clearance. It took some fancy work with the jack and a BFH, but I got it all to work. Hooked up the hoses, installed the fan and flushed her three times to get the old stuff out of the block. Seemed to have worked well.
I took her for a cruise today and she hovered around 185 degrees during some city driving and a lot of highway driving. A whole lot better than under the same conditions with the old radiator. That would have been 200 degrees.
However, I can hear my fan much more than I used to. A lot more. What could that be? My clutch free spun before and after removal and install. I stored it with the rotating axis parallel to the ground like my service booked said to. Could it be my seals are off? Maybe air is leaking around the shroud?
Now off to building a heat shield for my glass rear spring.
Always something. Thanks again for the tips guys 
10 minutes and it was in. I found turning it 90 degrees so the driver side was down then turning it correctly in place seemed to line everything up. Then you just pull and push and pull again until things pop into place. I wound up having more trouble with the side bolts to the core support because I took out all of the side bolts with the bottom bolts and the bolts that hold the 2 'L' brackets in place loose for flexibility. Seemed to give me a whole lot more clearance. It took some fancy work with the jack and a BFH, but I got it all to work. Hooked up the hoses, installed the fan and flushed her three times to get the old stuff out of the block. Seemed to have worked well.
I took her for a cruise today and she hovered around 185 degrees during some city driving and a lot of highway driving. A whole lot better than under the same conditions with the old radiator. That would have been 200 degrees.
However, I can hear my fan much more than I used to. A lot more. What could that be? My clutch free spun before and after removal and install. I stored it with the rotating axis parallel to the ground like my service booked said to. Could it be my seals are off? Maybe air is leaking around the shroud?
Now off to building a heat shield for my glass rear spring.
Always something. Thanks again for the tips guys
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,802
Likes: 61
From: Wichita KS
Glad to hear you got it all back together and working well. You will hear the fan whenever it's needed. If you think it's engaging more now than before, make sure all the seals are tight.
As the old saying goes, if it ain't broke don't fix it.
cc
As the old saying goes, if it ain't broke don't fix it.
cc
