I'm currently trying to install my new radiator core support and new (at least to this car) radiator. It a copper core radiator from another L48 '75. However, I can't seem to bolt the driver side top bracket in. Here is how the install stands right now:
Core support in the car, bottom 2 bolts in and 2 side bolts in (middle or bottom side, can't recall at the moment). The 'insulators' are in the 4 four brackets with the radiator sitting in the bottom core support brackets. New radiator seals are on the core support. The radiator sits fine in the bottom brackets, but when I bolt in the passenger top bracket (which is relatively easy) it seems to lift the driver side bottom corner out of the bracket. Furthermore, I cannot get the driverside bracket on for the life of me. I've literally struggled for the past 4 hours... I can't seem to crack the nut. The bolts are close, but I can't get the thread started. To add insult to injury, when I bolt in the passenger side bracket, it also makes it even worse on the driver side bracket.

I've measured this 'new' raditaor and it matches the old one where it counts and have compared the old top brackets with the new ones. The bottom brackets on the old core support rusted right off, but measurements seem to check out there as well.

I'm beginning to think that the core support holes for the top bracket are wrong. Why else would it shift the radiator around?

Any tips or tricks, thoughts? This problem is making a spectical out of me in my driveway...

 

Try getting one started loosely, and then the other, or vice versa. Perhaps one of the bottom nrackets is bent slightly? Did you fit it together before you put them in? The best way to put them in is laying them down falt, assembling together, then putting in the car. The core support gives rigidity to the front end, depending on how you have the front supported/lifted could make a difference as to how it lines up. Jacking on side or the other may give you that extra 1/8" you need to line up the holes.
Good luck. I did my 69 2 years ago and it was a treat!

 

I did have the radiator and core support out at one point and test fitted them. The fit seemed ok, but I had a lot of trouble getting just one or the other into the car so I never tried to put them in together. I'll pull them out and see if I can get it going that way and con a friend into helping.

As far as starting one bracket and going to the other, that's what I was doing. I never had a chance to tighten it all up.

My suspension swap was easier than this. I haven't even dealt with the fan shroud I thought this was the easy part!

Thanks for the feedback, schmegeggie. Have others had a similar experience?

 

All I know is I'm getting rid of my shroud and clutch fan right now. In the process of rebuilding the 350 to a modern 383. Bored, HEI, headers, new carb/intake, and converting to DeWitt's dual electric fan set-up. That shroud has cost me more time than I care to think about, not to mention the rad. fins! I just remember when I replaced the core support, It was a serious PITA! Lifting up the frame here and there helped me finally get all the bolts in place. Then those top supports for the radiator, same problem. Just didn't seem to want to fit. Not sure what it was, but after pulling the rad. out about a dozen times and putting it back in place, it finally fit. So I tightened it down before it could move again.
Good Luck keeping your sanity!

 

Well the sanity is lost, so we can forget about that. But I took your advice about taking out the rad and core support and fitting it on the ground. However, I listend to you about how the core support could be twisting if jacked up. Mine was jacked up (the lowest amount allowed by jackstands). I decided to lower it to the ground on let it sit on the suspension, then try again; no go. So I removed the core support and rad to try to fit them together out of the car. Well first try I got the troubling drivers side to go in! But... then the passenger side was out of alignment. So I switched it up mounting the pass side first then driver; driver didn't line up. And it's off by a lot (~1/8th inch). It looks like the core isn't wide enough, but it is exactly the same as my old one.

So here's my next question: Do I drill/file for a new hole/reshape current hole or do I bolt it back in the car and try to twist the whole car using jack stands to fit the current holes?

 

I glad but not the kind of glad to see everyone was and is having problems with the install of the rad support. I went through my own hell trying to install the rad. support. With the vette up on jack stands, the front end could, can sag. Like you guys, this was suppose to be simple, as some say it is. For us, it wasn't. Jacking up under the nose, and not very hard mind you, is one way. I would get a couple of the side bolts in, but the third one would not line up. I stuck a screw driver in one of the holes and pried it up. There's like a couple of layers in between the hole.Still was a pain. Screws that should screw in, just for the life of me wouldn't. After I got it in, had problem with the shroud. Something was wrong and I couldn't figure it out. The bottom of the shroud was hanging about 1/2 inch below the top of the crossmember. It should be right on the top. After pulling the shroud in and out countless times, I took out the radiator support to check and compare it with my old one. The new radiator support was off a 1/2 inch. That's why! The shroud was a 1/2 inch off. I don't want to do that again. Good luck. Tony

 

Well '69, I'm happy to hear I'm not alone either, but then again I would have preferred the easier install As for the core support bolt holes lining with the body, I think mine is OK. I haven't fully checked this, because I only had one side bolt in, but it appeared that all of the side bolt holes lined up nicely. Looks like I'll have to check. I would have yesterday, but it rained for most of the day so I just washed my Redline.

I'm still not sure if I should rework the mount holes in my core support for the top radiator brackets or bend and twist the frame for hope of getting it to line up.

I'm leaning towards reshaping the mount holes. Reason being, I don;t want the stress translated to the radiator. If I have to stretch and twist the frame to get it to line up, what will happen once the frame levels out? All the stress will go into the Radiator.

Does anyone else agree or feel this is a terrible idea?

 

Anyone?

 

Are the mounting brackets new or the old ones and from which car (yours or the donor car) if they are old?

cc


You do know that there are 2 different size bolts for each side right? The longer one goes in the top or inboard hole and the shorter one goes in the lower or outboard hole.

If you have the bolts in their correct locations and you're short by 1/8 inch it might be easiest to go to the hardware store and buy a bolt that is a little longer than the stock one and use it to get the drivers side bracket started. Tighten it enough to get the other bolt all the way in then replace the extra long bolt with the correct one.

 

Thanks for the reply!
I am using new brackets that I bought along with the crossmember. However, my old ones were in decent shape, so I compared the new and old. They look identical in terms of hole placement and angle.

I'm aware of the different size bolts. The shorter goes to the outside with as 'star' washer (as I call them) and the longer goes to the inside with two regular washers.

But, I'm not short in terms of bolt length. I can place the bracket right against the core no problem. The issue as it seems, is the bracket bolt holes are about an 1/8th" too far inward when the opposing side is bolted in and I can't seem to get them to line up.

However, your idea of using a longer bolt may help still because I might be able to start the bolt further out, thus increasing the angle (closer to perpendicular) between the bolt and bracket and then reel it in

I'm also going to try putting my weight on both top brackets simultaneously as my father tries to start a bolt on each side and see if that helps at all. Another idea is to shave the cushions in the brackets down a bit. That may give me what I need.


I have another favor to ask of you guys. If anyone has their core support out, could you measure from the lip of the bottom bracket to the lip of the top bracket bolted in at the highest position? This could help me determine if my core support is alright. I can't really measure my old one, the brackets fell off the bottom

Thanks everyone.

 

I have a 75 and all this is pretty tight too.
The original bolts are flange head so that the bracket can be pinched when tighten to the core support. There should be "wiggle room" enough for at least 1/8" adjustment in any direction.
You can elongate the holes on both sides enough to take out you 1/8" misalignment. The holes in the core support or brackets can be done this way and the original flange bolts will still work.

I changed mine to stainless with washers so that created even more adjustment room.
You are right, don't put the rad in a bind and if anything, watch you lower rad outlet for misalignment for the lower hose on the crossmember.

Make sure the rad stays in the lower rubbers and adjust the tops to fit. Remember to put the shroud in before the rad.

 

Yeah, not looking forward to the shroud install. I attempted to install that before the radiator, but it gets very tight to slip the rad between the shroud and core support. But once I had the fitment issues, haven't considered the shroud since.

I think I'll play around with this some more, but like you confirmed ,noonie, keeping the rad from twisting is best. I'm afraid if I twist and bend my frame enough to bolt the radiator in, that when the frame relaxes, the radiator will lose the fight. Plus the frame is pretty stiff on these old birds. I've lifted one complete side from the jacking the frame up at the door front seem.
I'm going to attempt to shave a little off of my cushions as well and see if that helps. If not, looks like new holes. However, I'll make sure the radiator is still good and snug.

Just another day when working on Pandora...

Thanks for the advice. I'm still hoping for measurements to see if my support is at least close to correct if anybody has them/able to get them.

 

You said you were only out 1/8" so that's not a big deal at all. Just elongate the holes in either the brackets or the support or both.

Make sure it all fits with the assembly out of the car if necessary.

Install the rad with only the 2 lower side bolts loose in the core support and the top tipped toward the front of the car.

Jack the core support in the center with a cut 2x4 to fit, not each side.
Leave the rad mount brackets connected, but loose until everything else is aligned and tight. Tighten the rad last.

 

Ok. I like your approach. The only step I don't understand is why I'm jacking the core support.
Wait, maybe I do have it. You don't mention the two bottom bolts of the core support installed. Is that to promote pivoting of the support? Is the jack supposed to stabilize the now freely moving core support? I don't have the hood off and would prefer to keep it on. If I can't do this exactly with the hood on, I think I can adapt it to work.

 

That's how I was able to get my shroud in as well. I laid it in so the bottom was past the water pump then put a bottle jack against the block and a 2x4 against the core support, I only pushed it back far enough so the condenser was barely touching the hood and the shroud dropped right in.

I think it's those darn new seals that are causing all the problems. Mine didn't have any seals when I pulled it out the first time. Didn't have a shroud extension or seals either.

Good Luck.

cc

 

ohhh! the 2x4 and jacking is for the shroud install! *facepalm* I apparently need some food because my sugar is low.

When I removed my shroud, I didn't use a 2x4 to prop up the rad/cor support, I just leaned on the assembly and pulled the shroud out. However, I used the bottom bolts as the pivot point, not the bottom side bolts. I feel like for not thinking of that.

Sometimes I wonder how I passed through college...

Thanks again guys! I'll give this stuff a try and report when I have something... or when I get stuck, haha.

 

Well, after an anti-climactic mounting of the radiator to the core support (was easier than toast), I rolled up the old sleeves and dragged my father away from the garden. Well, we tried to drop the two in as an assembly, and of course, no, I need a 1/2" more room around the A-arm and bottom hose connection on the rad. So, out it comes to be disassembled. Shouldn't be a problem doing it in pieces because mounting the rad to the core support was easy before. Yeah ok. Apparently, you can't apply the same force in the car that you can out of the car. Two hours later, I got her in using screw drivers to line the holes up, a bolt swap (big bolt in small hole, to the big bolt in the big hole in same bracket, tighten, take first big bolt put in small bolt, etc...). Having an extra bolt could have helped BUT IT IS IN. I also don't feel the radiator is binding in anyway. I think it's just fine. Now I just need to run the hoses, get the shroud in, flush the system and call it done! Thanks for all of your help. I couldn't do it without you guys

 

Glad to hear it but don't discount the difficulty the shroud can give you. Remember what we said about the jack and 2x4 and you should be fine assuming you didn't put all of the side bolts into the core support, just the bottom ones.

cc

 

No, I haven't forgotten that problem! I only bolted the middle side bolt and tightened the bottom two. That was for stability. I just hope I have some wood around that's long enough and not slated for anything else. I just hope it works and I can slide on my hoses with the shroud in the car (not tighten of course).

That reminds me, Can I grease up the hoses for them to slide onto the radiator better or am I just asking for leaks?

 

To clarify the earlier post.

When putting in the rad, loosely, have only the lower 2 side bolts in the core support. Remove the larger ones at the very bottom.
Tilt the top of the core support toward the front of the car and slide the rad in, then slide the shroud in behind it.
Then tilt the rad and coresupport into position and install the other 4 side bolts.
No need to remove the hood.

When the 6 side bolts are tight on the core support, put the 2x4 under the core support and gently jack up as far as it will go and install the 2 larger bottom bolts. The brackets are slotted for adjustment where needed. This will close your gaps at the front of the door as original and keep the front end from staying in a sagging position.
Lastly install the center rod from the core support to the headlight mount bar bolt up the shroud.

Use 100% antifreeze as a lubricant for the hoses. You won't find anything any slippier, but the bottom one is a PITA. Coonect to the rad first, then the WPump.