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Oil Filter HELP !!

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Old May 18, 2009 | 09:44 AM
  #1  
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Default Oil Filter HELP !!

Thanks everyone one for your replies to my questions.
My question this time is which oil filter to use-
Z40 (the short one) or the PF34/ Z24 (long ones)
Is there any difference (apart from the length)?.
I'm currently running an Aussie Z-24,
But the price has gone through the roof
(I can get 2x Z40s for the price of 1).
CHEERS & THANKS again.
Gav
p.s I hope I'm not openning a "can o' worms"
previously discussed.

GAV
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Old May 18, 2009 | 09:49 AM
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Default thegazman

Gavin....What is the cost of an oil filter in OZ?
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Old May 18, 2009 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by thegazman
Gavin....What is the cost of an oil filter in OZ?
Hey thegazman,
$24 for a Z24, (but I found on ebay) 2x Z40 for $15 and
a K&N Z40 is $25.
CHEERS
Gav
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Old May 18, 2009 | 11:35 AM
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I think the "new" PF 34 is short.

Here are a couple of good brands and numbers that are the original long 1 quart style. Don't know if they are available down there, but the thread size and gasket placement are the important factors.
Only $3.00 to $5.00 here.
Good luck

WIX
Part Number: 51061
UPC Number: 765809510616
Principal Application: Chevrolet and GMC Trucks (63-90) - (Two Quart Version is 51794)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 5.178
Outer Diameter Top: 3.660
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 13/16-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Beta Ratio: 2/20=11/27
Burst Pressure-PSI: 285
Max Flow Rate: 9-11 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 19

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 3.444 3.100 0.260


Purolator L30040
Anti-Drain Back Valve No
Height 5.14
O.D. 3.78
Relief Valve P.S.I. None
Thread Pitch Special Threads 13/16-16
Type of Filter Spin-on
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Old May 18, 2009 | 11:43 AM
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Just a thought, but...

I doubt I will drive my car more than about 2000 miles per year. Given that, I am fairly insensitive to the oil filter. I buy a high quality oil, because I will change it no more than twice in a year, so I want to have confidence that leaving it in the crankcase for 6+ months isn't going to cause it to break down. As long as my filter grabs any metal or other big contaminants, it is fine with me as the oil never really gets very dirty.
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Old May 18, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by PKguitar
Just a thought, but...

I doubt I will drive my car more than about 2000 miles per year. Given that, I am fairly insensitive to the oil filter. I buy a high quality oil, because I will change it no more than twice in a year, so I want to have confidence that leaving it in the crankcase for 6+ months isn't going to cause it to break down. As long as my filter grabs any metal or other big contaminants, it is fine with me as the oil never really gets very dirty.

i usually change the oil before i store the car and again in the spring.
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Old May 18, 2009 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by larryg3

i usually change the oil before i store the car and again in the spring.
IF the engine is not run, the oil is fine. Once you run the car with fresh oil the additives start to break down. If you put fresh oil in the car before storage, you will have fresh oil in the car after storage...unless you start the car.
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Old May 18, 2009 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by wer2xu
IF the engine is not run, the oil is fine. Once you run the car with fresh oil the additives start to break down. If you put fresh oil in the car before storage, you will have fresh oil in the car after storage...unless you start the car.
If you change oil and don't start the car, wouldn't you still have dirty and/or contaminated oil in the lifters, bearings, etc?
Terry
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Old May 18, 2009 | 09:03 PM
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yes you would, but that will not cause the additives in the oil to break down.
Putting fresh oil in the car before storage is a good idea, changing it again after storage is just wasteful.
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Old May 18, 2009 | 09:10 PM
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Because of how you use the car [or, rather, don't use it that much], you might want to consider using synthetic oil and changing it only once per year. Synthetic doesn't oxidize like organic oils and it doesn't break down as quickly with repetitive heat cycling...so letting it sit won't really cause your oil to "go south". I could even make a case for changing the oil on two year cycles and changing the filter every year; but that would be decided by your 'comfort' level.
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Old May 18, 2009 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Because of how you use the car [or, rather, don't use it that much], you might want to consider using synthetic oil and changing it only once per year. Synthetic doesn't oxidize like organic oils and it doesn't break down as quickly with repetitive heat cycling...so letting it sit won't really cause your oil to "go south". I could even make a case for changing the oil on two year cycles and changing the filter every year; but that would be decided by your 'comfort' level.
Here is a link to an independent test of Mobil 1.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

In short, they ran it for 18000 miles with only one filter change at 12000 miles and had it analysed every 1000 miles. The test lasted 10 1/2 months. They did add clean oil to top it off when they took test samples. According to them it was still effective at protecting the engine after 18000 miles.
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Old May 19, 2009 | 12:15 AM
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K&N makes one of the best filters on the market. Wix brand filters are also quite good (NAPA "Gold" filters are made by WIX.)
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Old May 19, 2009 | 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Solid LT1
K&N makes one of the best filters on the market. Wix brand filters are also quite good (NAPA "Gold" filters are made by WIX.)
I've been using the K&N HP2002 oil filter for the past 12 years.
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