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well, went to get an allignment, and the car can't allign. no more shims to remove. Sounds as if the springs are getting bad or that the frame is tweaked. hoping for springs..
well, went to get an allignment, and the car can't allign. no more shims to remove. Sounds as if the springs are getting bad or that the frame is tweaked. hoping for springs..
are you talking about the front? If so a spreader bar will fix that easy
should all be good, as they were all replaced not long ago. However, shop did say I am missing one bolt and one bushing......not sure which one, but going to take care of that pronto.
A-arms went through a rebuild in around 2004 or 2005 I think. Replaced all the bushings in the front then, and also tie-rod ends. 2007 the rear spring was replaced, along with adjustable strut rods. 2008 I replaced the end links on the torsion bar in the front. Lately, I could tell by looking the front was out of whack, and couldn't before. Car went through an accident (ditch) in late 2006. Frame was checked and was straight then according to the shop.
I am pretty sure I went polly. I don't drive the car too often, so might have missed a change in handling. and yes, the bushing is on the control arm, all others are there (end links, etc.). Ride height appears to be ok, but if it has gone down a bit over the years as the springs sag, I might not noitce. It does not look bad to me. The rear end does set higher, but always has as it has bigger tires in the back for that old school look.
I should hope not.
Ride height is a spec in align
If the springs are not sagging and it falls in the spec window,
new springs won't make it OK to align.
Now if the spring rate is the issue...............
I have seen many a shop "set the toe and let it go"
so there must be a c arm bushing missing.
Moog sells offset control arm shafts to help get more camber. I needed one on my 73 and the alignment came out great. May want to see another shop. A missing control arm bushing would make the car undrivable i would think.
I am pretty sure I went polly. I don't drive the car too often, so might have missed a change in handling. and yes, the bushing is on the control arm, all others are there (end links, etc.). .
Don't under stand your comment. Is the bushing MISSING or just the bolt? If a bushing is MISSING from the control arm, there is no way you can align the front end.
well, I have not seen the car itself, just going by what the shop stated. They said it was missing a bolt, and also mentioned the bushing. going to look at it at 500. will then take it home, and fix whatever is missing as no matter what it is, it can't be good.
How well does this shop know C3's? When I got my car back together I went to the local alignment shops and they flat out told me they didnt know our cars. I finally found a shop that the guy knew what he was doing. It cost me but it pays to find someone who knows our cars.
well, I have not seen the car itself, just going by what the shop stated. They said it was missing a bolt, and also mentioned the bushing. going to look at it at 500. will then take it home, and fix whatever is missing as no matter what it is, it can't be good.
Which bolt? Which bushing? There's no bolt & bushing you could be missing up there and still have a driveable car unless you're talking about the front sway bar maybe. I think you need a new shop.
The lower you go, the more negative camber you're going to get. It's certainly possible that new springs could get you back into spec by changing your ride height though. How far out of whack is it? If it's just a weekend cruiser, and you're < 2 - 2.5° or so then I'd say screw it. Drive the damn thing. The tires will dry rot away before you wear them out prematurely.
it is just a weekend car. upon picking it up, it was the upper driver control arm BOLT. Bushing is still in place. I replaced teh bolt and bushing already. I am giong to do the sprigns, as they are cheap, and I do go on long trips in it occasionally.
This year the plan is new alum radiatior and tranny cooler (already got em, just got to find the time). I also need to tighten up the steering cloumn and replace the rag joint in the steering (it has pretty much disenigrated.
Guys.
The Corvette assembly manual from all the "legitimate" parts suppliers has the "general" settings for alignment specs.
Take a look.
I get them as close as possible as I can with a tape measure, torpedo level and straight edge and then I take it to the shop.
Really, full IRS has been around long enough that you should be able to get a good shop to help you out.
Ricers and Euro's have been in country for years and they haven't imported a solid rear axle since 1970 so our C3's shouldn't be a mystery to a good mechanic.
Just my personal opinion.
Good luck.
Skip in Houston