Yes, finally finished the ss brake lines last night and bled all four lines. Noticeable difference after install is only slight, though. How's it suppose to feel with the new lines?

Peddle is still soft as before - almost goes to the floor, shy of about an inch from floor. No bubbles or air came out as we manually bleed all lines about 3 times per wheel - did bleed the old fashion way, I pumped and pushed brake peddle then hold down, hubby sat at each caliper opening and closing bleed value until fluid ran solid. We've done this a bunch of times before on the Vette over the years.

On the test drive one of the front calipers is grabbing more than the other side since it still pulls to the right on a hard brake. The pull is not as bad as before but pulls enough - approximately a quarter revolution turn of the steering wheel is still there while braking hard.

New problem noticed, though! Passenger rear ss brake hose has a tiny leak. It's where the new brake hose connects to the ridged brake line. Tighten it as best as possible without stripping the nut. If I put both feet on the brake peddle and press really hard there's about a drop of fluid oozing from that connection. Light pressure on the peddle doesn't ooz. Not sure what to use for a better seal since no copper O'rings are used on the rears.

Sorry this is long - but it's a Vette, right?

 

hmmm...power brakes?

I would bench bleed the master cylinder.

Did the old brake line leak? Did the new line thread on nice and easy, or was it tough? If it was tough, then you may have buggered up the threads, and hence the leak.

 

Power brakes - yes.

How high (distance) is the brake peddle suppose to be from the floor when fully depressed? Or what is considered a normal range?

Don't remember seeing the old connection leaking. The nut screwed on the new lines all about the same, no binding was noticed on any of them. The amount of fluid coming out mostly pools around the connection (no dripping) after pressing and holding brake peddle really hard for about a minute long - we timed it on a clock.

Thanks for the tip on the master cylinder! Will try that next, but it won't be for a few weeks. Currently finishing some body work on another vehicle so we can sell it soon, being I bought a new daily driver last week.

 

The thing to keep in mind about that leak is while it lets fluid out, it also lets air in. You need to get that fixed before anything else...there could be a small piece of crud in that connection, or a metal shaving...but I would fix that before doing anything else.
As far as pedal travel, I have manual brakes and my pedal does not get anywhere near the floor...but you should compare it with a similar car/setup.

 

Thumbs Up to that last answer, until you have repaired the known leak, you don't even know what the master cycl. is doing. More paper work,LOL have a great weekend. Gene

 

Hi 78VC,
I've found that with SS lines, (because they're so hard), when you connect from a hard line to another hard line you need to have the 2 lines PERFECTLY lined up. The flare nut isn't strong enough to pull the 2 lines into position (and not leak) as it can with the regular Bundy steel lines.
I changed the front cross-over line back to Bundy steel from SS for this reason.
Regards,
Alan

 

Ok - will check for crud or other contaminate on that pass rear line to see if that's causing the leak problem.

Still wondering about the distance on the brake peddle from the floor? When the car isn't running the peddle is high when pressed. Just as soon as I turn the car on and press the brake the peddle is lower. Already tried adjusting while pumping peddle while driving in reverse. Assuming (theoretically) the brake assist is what might be causing the low peddle?