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Find and kill the leak first or your tracks will keep on rusting. Once you have a finger in the dam, bead blast the runners and paint them. Eastwood Aluma Blast looks nice but is probably not NCRS approved.
Common leak areas are the T-top seals, wiper tray cracks/caulk loss; windshield seal deterioration; birdcage rust-out; heater core leakage. Don't be surprised if you find more than one of those are causing your problems. Use a garden hose [on a dry day] to localize the water source, so that you can isolate your problem areas.
I'm still super jealous of your purchase. (We got ours around the same time)
Anyway, my T-Top seals leak and run down the A-pillars to the floor. Having carpet in it, your water probably wicks up the carpet to the seat tracks. It's $500 for a complete new set of seals. (which is why I have old seals and no carpets.)
Happy hunting. Try sitting in the car with your beatiful girlfriend hosing down the outside of the car. Then just look for the trail coming in.
Common leak areas are the T-top seals, wiper tray cracks/caulk loss; windshield seal deterioration; birdcage rust-out; heater core leakage. Don't be surprised if you find more than one of those are causing your problems. Use a garden hose [on a dry day] to localize the water source, so that you can isolate your problem areas.
The '79 leaks on both passenger and driver side. There's a leak somewhere 6" from the windshield washer well to the fender on BOTH sides. (The garden hose test proves this.)
Its so far up I cant see where its coming from. The "flashlight at night" test didnt work...
Thanks...Steve
Before you get too involved you should check other areas for rust. Remove all the interior trim and check the birdcage carefully. If you have leaks around the windshield and the wiper bay your frame or birdcage could be toast. You don't want to be replacing seals and trim pieces only to find you have major frame or birdcage repairs. If someone sold you the car for $900 they might have been aware of issues that you do not know about YET.