I'm in the process of rebuilding my 73 coupe and figured I would experiment with my powder coating skills (or lack of). I decided that since the master cylinder was in pretty bad shape, it would be my latest patient. After removing the pistons and thoroughly cleaning the housing, I sandblasted and recleaned prior to applying the powder. I chose the Eastwood Chrome (since it was already laying around) and this is the result. Ready for reassembly and then time will tell if there is any reaction between the brake fluid and the finish. I figured we have used it on the calipers so this should fare just as well.



The adhesive on the seal is from the AC&R duct tape (it holds up well to the heat in addition to being a great option when installing sound deadening mats in your interior)

More pics are available for viewing on my photobucket site if anyone's interested: http://s286.photobucket.com/albums/l...ats1/Projects/

 

im thinking about doing the same to mine.

looks great

 

Warning! the powder coating may be impervious to the brake fluid but the brake cleaner is another story! I just wiped the seal area down to get rid of the adhesive and it scarred the powder coat some. It took off some of the shine where it got on it.

 

I did the same thing to mine and found that the chrome is pretty delicate. Normal DOT 3 Break fluid will discolor it along with simple green and a few other cleaners. I ended up going with Polished aluminum on mine, but I did do one for a friend in the wrinkle black. It has held up well and is impervious to everything we threw at it.

On a positive note, it looks like you have done a nice job with it.

 

Ain't it funny that when you want something to stick it don't and when you want to strip something it won't.

Danny

 

Brake fluid will attack the powder coat. Don't sak how I know

 

i never understood why brake fluid is soooo damn strong....

 

Vette Rookie,
Nice job, what are you using for an oven? I just got my powder coating kit from Eastwood, but I need an oven. I do NOT have access to 220V so I need something 110V.

 

For smaller parts you can use a toaster oven(110 volts)

 

Just curious, is that a 2-step chrome powder? Some of the powders I've researched are 1 step others 2-step, with the second being a clear sealer. Just wondering if this helps any. Selecting a non-hydroscopic brake fluid would probably help a lot too.

 

I ended up with an extra oven when my mother got a new one, so I just used the 220 outlet that I had wired in my shop for a compressor. Increases my size limit somewhat - not sure if I can get a rim in there or not, but may have to give it a try in the near future.


The powder I used was a one step process, but they do have a clear coat and I was curious if it might be a little stronger! What was surprising about this powder was that the cure time was only 10 minutes (after part is up to temp) most are around 20 minutes. I preheated the part for about 10 minutes and then left it at 425 for 20 more to cure once the powder was applied.

 

i heard a trick to powder coating is to heat up the part then coat it then bake it...

 

with powder coating preheat the part can be a 2 edged sword. if you get it too hot the powder will flash and prevent the correct amount of powder from sticking. it is better to use a iron compound wash to promote adhesion. preheat the oven fully and trust the curing times they say. the reason that cleaners discolor the chrome is that it usually didnt bake long enough. you have to resist the temptation to remove it when it "looks good" this is like trying to handle paint when it feels dry.

if it says to bake for 20 mins at 250 and after 15 it looks good and you remove it its gunna end up like crap. if after 20 mins you take the part out and its screwed up do it over again. the times needed are a guess and there is a big diff between powder coating alum, steel, stainless, etc. its an art form its all about knowing what your doing and knowing when is the right time.

also keep the heat source away from the part as much as poss to prevent uneaven heating

it took me a lot of messing up to learn how to turn out an ok part. using a home oven will never turn out as professional of a part as an industrial kiln but for smaller parts it can be ok.

anything that the sell as a 2 step is usually a base then a clear over it.

for the best deals on powders and supplies try
http://store.columbiacoatings.com/


there stuff has been pretty good so far.

hope this is taken as positive. im no professional but have been doing home powder coating for a while and have taken my share of lumps in the learning process.

chrome and gloss black are 2 of the hardest colors to do properly because any imperfection shows.

 

The wrinkle black looks awsome, you do nice work. Peace,,, Moosie