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Has anyone else had alignment problems with a geared starter. I can get it all lined up and smooth then it starts eating on my flex plate. I have already replaced one with less than 500 miles on the rebuild. I looks like the stater is flexing on the bolts. I did not need any shims for depth. Strange deal. I don't want to put another flex plate on it.
Are you using the late model GM starter. If so, you need special bolts with metric chanks and English threads. Here is the info I posted a couple of years ago.
GM Part#9000852
Great starter, same one GM uses on the ZZ502 crate engine.
Two notes:
1) It needs special bolts with a metric shank and US threads. GM part # 12338064.
2) You can get the same starter at Autozone for $189.99 new. Just ask them for the starter for a 1998 3/4 ton Suburban with a 7.4L engine.
BTW, the GM part number for a remanufactured 9000852 is 10465167.
Last edited by SteveG75; Aug 18, 2009 at 11:00 AM.
I used new bolts but may not be metric and standard. I will call my parts guy . Thanks its worth a shot. Where did you find the bolts? The linc seems to be broken. Thanks again
John in Oklahoma
71 454 c3
Last edited by jfleye; Aug 17, 2009 at 10:30 PM.
Reason: new info
I'm dealing with the same thing now. I am trying to use a later model factory type gear reduction starter with an 11 tooth drive instead of the 9 teeth on the original type. It chewed up the starter drive and the ring gear on an aluminum flywheel before I got the adjustment right. The people that I bought the starter from said it should work just fine and that they had never had a problem with it.
I will be making sure its adjusted perfectly before the trans goes back in this time.
I got the bolts from my local GM dealer. Removed the link since any GM dealer should be able to get you a starter or just get one at Autozone like I did.
I got the new bolts this morning and they are larger. I instaLLED them and no more noise in the starter. Thanks a bunch for helping me fix the problem of the day on my car.
John
I was doing a search this morning and this post helped me out tremendously.
I put my starter on (which is the kind of starter you guys are talking about) a year ago with regular starter bolts. I thought something seemed little off because it seemed like there was a little more play there than I was used to. I did put a good Snap-On "dial" torque wrench on them and torqued to 40 ft lbs.
About two weeks ago I was starting my car, the engine kicked back and all of the sudden the starter started grinding VERY loudly. Apparently the starter had shifted when the motor kicked back.
These new bolts that I didn’t even know existed until today will obviously solve this problem.
Thanks - steveG75 and jfleye
I measured and the bolt is .018 larger in diameter at the step than a regular 3/8 starter bolt.
Late models use a 10mm bolt which is slightly larger than 3/8".
Instead of getting the special bolts I found some thin wall bronze tubing at the local HW store. The inner diameter of the tube is 3/8" and the outer is just enough to fit snug in the starter. That way I could still use my stock 3/8" bolts.