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Hey laddies and gents, l've been working on a lot things over the past year but there are some things that still plaguing me. The fiberglass being a main one. On each corner there is at least one fault in the glass.
The one that is really bothering me is on the right air vent/gill. With out getting in to too many details.. a snow plow+icy driveway+ lack of right hand side mirror+ no back brakes led to a rather large hole in a really bad area on the vent right on the top of the vent where it starts to dip down. Just wanted to see if a body shop would be able to repair it or would I need to get a new quarter panel.. Sorry don't have a pic of it at the moment and I know that would help.
Another pain is that the right side door panel is falling off a little from the actual door. It seems like the bonding agent that was holding it place is gone or has fallen off. Is there a way to take the door panel off completely to reglue the door panel back on?
Finally... I got the headlights to operate but the warning light stays on continuously and I'm not sure why. And the lights seem to lock and wont go down when they're turned off. I know there's a way to adjust them somehow but I don't really know how and if some one does that would be great.
Any suggestions/comments are appreciated. I'm actually really glad these are my only problems at the moment seeing as the car was inoperative for 18 years and after I finish up a couple things I'll be road ready, but that's for next summer. Here's hoping that it comes very very quickly
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Also, the Lamp Warning light will remain on if either or both of the button switches on the headlamp actuator linkage are disconnected/broken/missing. There are two switches, one for each lamp.
Also, the Lamp Warning light will remain on if either or both of the button switches on the headlamp actuator linkage are disconnected/broken/missing. There are two switches, one for each lamp.
The switches are still there, and no the over-ride is off. But how do the switches work I've been curious about that might have a bad ground on them?
Thanks Mike, I'll try to get a picture if I ever get to it today, and try to find a way to squeeze sandpaper down the door to get the rust off to so that the door will bond.. Will guerrilla glue do the trick or another type of bonding agent?
...how do the switches work I've been curious about that might have a bad ground on them?...
They're 100% vacuum. Nothing electrical to check. With the engine not running, the override allows you to open and close the headlight doors a time or two from the vacuum reserve.
...Will guerrilla glue do the trick or another type of bonding agent?...
Gorilla glue might hold for a while. Fusor or a similar bonding agent would be better. The panels on your 74 are SMC, so you want something SMC compatible.
They're 100% vacuum. Nothing electrical to check. With the engine not running, the override allows you to open and close the headlight doors a time or two from the vacuum reserve.
Gorilla glue might hold for a while. Fusor or a similar bonding agent would be better. The panels on your 74 are SMC, so you want something SMC compatible.
Whoops, I know how the over-ride works, wanted to see how the "Headlight warning" light worked, what makes it come on electrically speaking? Just from damage or does it make a circuit with something because where mine are connected its kinda corroded. Sorry about the mix up, I know all to well how the vacuum components work..
Thanks for the suggestion though. Have some pics about the hole too.
...wanted to see how the "Headlight warning" light worked, what makes it come on electrically speaking?...
A switch on each headlight. Raise the lights and look up underneath. You should see the switches.
Your finder ding is repairable. Did you happen to save the pieces? You will want to repair from both sides, front and back. You can probably remove the heat shield between the fender and frame and have wiggle room to get behind the gill.
I have some pieces, but they where pretty bent so don't think they would work out, but thanks for the heads up, think I'll let the paint shop take care of it actually. Thanks guys.
That fiberglass fix would be fairly easy for a competent body/glass person to fix. Call around to a Corvette club [or two] and get recommendations on whom to call. If you get multiple recommendations for the same outfit, you'd do well to take it there. No way would I attempt that if I didn't have the experience already. That area is too visible, and with the curves involved it has to be just right or it will 'stick out like a sore thumb'. Good luck, either way.
P.S. Tell the repair person that you want it prepped ready for paint. Then you can just prime, sand and paint, since it is a solid color car.
That fiberglass fix would be fairly easy for a competent body/glass person to fix. Call around to a Corvette club [or two] and get recommendations on whom to call. If you get multiple recommendations for the same outfit, you'd do well to take it there. No way would I attempt that if I didn't have the experience already. That area is too visible, and with the curves involved it has to be just right or it will 'stick out like a sore thumb'. Good luck, either way.
P.S. Tell the repair person that you want it prepped ready for paint. Then you can just prime, sand and paint, since it is a solid color car.
Trust me, I wasn't even thinking about attempting that area. There are a couple easier ones that maybe I could get solved but really since its getting painted I think I will give it to capable hands. Just was worried it was too bad and a new quarter panel was needed. Thanks guys.
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