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The cruising season is basically over for us so I started a project today. I am still running my original rad and heater core so it is time to replace them. I will install a VBP spreader bar now that I have room for it. I will document my install and take pics as I go.
Went through all that 2 winters ago. Love the feel of the R&P and spreader bar added to the front end of the car.
I went with a 4 core Proliance rad (POS). I was afraid of electrolysis due to how much the car will sit, so I went with copper/brass as well. Probably would do a DeWitts if I had to do it again and get a sacrificial anode.
I got the spreader bar in. I had to elongate a couple of holes in the mounting brackets so that they would fit over the control arm mounting studs. Has anyone else that installed these run into that problem. The holes in the mounts need to be another increased by another 1/8" center to center.
I got the spreader bar in. I had to elongate a couple of holes in the mounting brackets so that they would fit over the control arm mounting studs. Has anyone else that installed these run into that problem. The holes in the mounts need to be another increased by another 1/8" center to center.
My same bolt in VPB spreader bar kit didn't need any mods, other than the electric fan conversion.
I got the spreader bar in. I had to elongate a couple of holes in the mounting brackets so that they would fit over the control arm mounting studs. Has anyone else that installed these run into that problem. The holes in the mounts need to be another increased by another 1/8" center to center.
Well it doesn't get any slicker than this. The rad is a Dewitt and the fit is perfect. It took all of 10 minutes by myself to slip the rad in place and another 10 minutes to put the new foam around the perimeter. Tomorrow I will install the wiring and relays for the Spals.
Where did you get that big piece of foam for the upper rad. seal. The stock one on mine is just a little to narrow and on Davids car it is a 2 piece foam unit which does not seal it all up. I like the piece you have. It covers the whole area.
Where did you get that big piece of foam for the upper rad. seal. The stock one on mine is just a little to narrow and on Davids car it is a 2 piece foam unit which does not seal it all up. I like the piece you have. It covers the whole area.
Gordon, that foam came as packing around a flat screen TV :-) So it looks like it will cost you something around $600 to get it :-) The foam will eventually be covered wit a polished aluminum cover.
Last edited by Binnie77; Oct 22, 2009 at 07:07 PM.
Gordon, that foam came as packing around a flat screen TV :-) So it looks like it will cost you something around $600 to get it :-) The foam will eventually be covered wit a polished aluminum cover.
Whoa that is expensive foam. I have bought 2 flat screens recently so I think I'm set on TVs for now. I'll keep shopping around for thicker foam.
I was thinking of a cover for that area also. Post up a picture when you get it done.
One more question, how close is the plastic fan shroud to the upper control arm bolt on the drivers side. I had to move my fans a little over from where Dewitts mounted them. No big deal but it was tight in that area.
To help with your foam question....I used a piece of water pipe insulating foam. You can get this product at Home Depot or Lowes. They generally have two types. one will look like the foam that came with the aformentioned TV (cheaper) or a smooth, more dense foam that I used (more expensive). I love how mine turned out....wish I had a digital camera !! ..Rich
To help with your foam question....I used a piece of water pipe insulating foam. You can get this product at Home Depot or Lowes. They generally have two types. one will look like the foam that came with the aformentioned TV (cheaper) or a smooth, more dense foam that I used (more expensive). I love how mine turned out....wish I had a digital camera !! ..Rich
That is what I'm looking for a dense style of foam. I'll look at HD and Lowes tomorrow.
To help with your foam question....I used a piece of water pipe insulating foam. You can get this product at Home Depot or Lowes. They generally have two types. one will look like the foam that came with the aformentioned TV (cheaper) or a smooth, more dense foam that I used (more expensive). I love how mine turned out....wish I had a digital camera !! ..Rich
Come on now Alex, are you saying that I would use 'cheap' foam
One more question, how close is the plastic fan shroud to the upper control arm bolt on the drivers side. I had to move my fans a little over from where Dewitts mounted them. No big deal but it was tight in that area.
The room that you have at this point will depend on how many alignment shims are between the control arm shaft and the frame. I was lucky and I have about 1/8" clearance. Seeing that both the control arm shaft and rad cannot move, I am happy with it.
FYI it is easy to spread that x-member to get the camber adjustment back in it. Are you guys putting the bar in it to keep it from closing up any more than it has?? Notice from the pic that the one shim indicates it is almost to the point of being closed too much to get a good camber reading? Seems spreading it is cheaper than all the stuff in the kit??
Just wondering---
FYI it is easy to spread that x-member to get the camber adjustment back in it. Are you guys putting the bar in it to keep it from closing up any more than it has?? Notice from the pic that the one shim indicates it is almost to the point of being closed too much to get a good camber reading? Seems spreading it is cheaper than all the stuff in the kit??
Just wondering---
No, I have tons of adjustment left. The picture may be deceiving because the shim packs at each contact point contains three or more. The purpose of the spreader bar in my case is for handling enhancement only.
The room that you have at this point will depend on how many alignment shims are between the control arm shaft and the frame. I was lucky and I have about 1/8" clearance. Seeing that both the control arm shaft and rad cannot move, I am happy with it.
I only have 1 thin shim on that side. I called Tom about this and he said sometimes they have to be moved slightly. The tolerance for these cars is very big.
I also put on my spreader bar for handling. It stiffened up the front frame and I have far less movement or rattles now with the spreader bar and the shark bar I have to stiffen up the rear of the birdcage.
Hey Binnie, please take some detailed photos of your wiring and relay mounting!
I'll be tackling this myself fairly soon, looking for ideas that "work".
Cheers!
Originally Posted by Rebelrob
Do you have AC on this car, cannot tell if you have a condenser out front or not?
Will Dewitt set up work properly if you have an AC system?
I am also doing a Dewitts conversion on a 77 that I am working on for a forum member. It has AC also. Italked to Dewitts about wiring this up and you can use a 3rd relay for the AC but it was not recomended. Just wire it the way it says to wire the dual fans and you should be OK. When the AC is turned on the car heats up quicker and the fans will kick on quickly anyway. When driving down the road with the AC on the rushing air is enough to keep the motor and AC cool. Thisis how it is explained to me by Dewitts. The 3rd relay just takes more wiring and 1 more relay and is not really needed.
I mounted the relays on the passenger inner fender and wired it to the starter lug. I have had it wired like this on my car for years with no problems.
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