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I have a beige/dark bronze 81 that has the large "c" shaped decal on the hood. Does anyone know a way to remove this without damaging the paint? The paint is in good condition, but the decal is in bad shape. I can buy a stripe kit for about $300 which includes this decal, so I can replace it if I can get the old one off.
Maybe you should look into this 3M tool, I've seen guys use it with amazing results but they tell me it takes some practice to avoid f'ups.
3M™ Stripe Off Wheel 07498, 4 in x 5/8 in with Mandrel, 5 per case
Designed for high-speed removal of vinyl, decals, graphics and double sided molding striping and trim. Use on tools with 4,000 RPM . MOS: optimum speed is 2,000 RPM plus or minus 200. Includes a 3/8 in Mandrel.
Good Luck, Peace,,,Moosie
Use a hair dryer. A heat gun gets too hot and puts your paint at risk. Heat an edge or a point and lift it with your finger nail. Continue heating the decal out in front of the removal site, pulling slowly. Many times the decal is too old and brittle to come off in one or more major pieces. I've used the stripe removal wheel mentioned above and it works great on pin stripes. I've never used it on a larger decal, though.
Surely there is some kind of solvent that will soften/melt/dissolve the decal but not attack paint/clear-coat...?
There is, and I've used it on vehicles in the past (it's been several years ago). I can't remember if it's made by SEM, 3M or someone else. If you go to an autobody paint supply store, they should be able to get you a can. What I used was a tall aerosol can, you spray it on, let it sit a while, then remove the decal. It still took a little bit of work to remove the gummy adhesive with a plastic razor (get one of those too), but it worked as advertised. It was like $10-12 a can! I also used 3M adhesive remover too on the adhesive. It didn't harm or damage the paint on vehicles I used it on ...but be carefull not to scrape any scratched into it.
Once you get the decal off, you'll still see where the stripe was, in the form of a new looking area. On metal-bodied cars, you can even repaint the area and still see the 'ghost' decal bleed through unless you cover with an epoxy primer and sand smooth prior to painting (the adhesive bleeds through the paint and impregnates the metal). I don't know if this applies to glass-bodied cars.
Thanks for the responses. I think I will try the heat gun first. I have one I can turn way down. The solvent will be plan B. As for the "ghost" of the decal, I'm planning on replacing it so that shouldn't be a problem.