Trailing Arm Shims
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
Trailing Arm Shims for Van Steel Offset T-Arms
I am doing a body off and when I re-installed my original GM T-arms, the shims I previously had went back in. I did update to Polyurethane Bushings, but as I experienced years ago the shims were a booger to get back in.
Recently, I removed the T-Arms and bought Offsets from Van Steel
and they put the black polyurethane bushings in (Ecklers?) and now my shims don't fit no matter how much I throw things around... just kiddin.
So after researching on the web, I realize, all I have to do is get is close, as a final alignment is due for various reasons (all new rearend parts). And I do plan on a good alignment anyway.
I will finish installing the T-Arms tomorrow, but are there any techniques to get those dang shims in. I am lucky as the body is off. Oh - also ....anyone with pics of the cotter pin to hold the shims in?
.
Recently, I removed the T-Arms and bought Offsets from Van Steel
and they put the black polyurethane bushings in (Ecklers?) and now my shims don't fit no matter how much I throw things around... just kiddin.So after researching on the web, I realize, all I have to do is get is close, as a final alignment is due for various reasons (all new rearend parts). And I do plan on a good alignment anyway.
I will finish installing the T-Arms tomorrow, but are there any techniques to get those dang shims in. I am lucky as the body is off. Oh - also ....anyone with pics of the cotter pin to hold the shims in?
.
Last edited by kaiserbud; Nov 23, 2009 at 01:09 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,590
Likes: 403
From: Nashville TN
St. Jude Donor '09
I am doing a body off and when I re-installed my original GM T-arms, the shims I previously had went back in. I did update to Polyurethane Bushings, but as I experienced years ago the shims were a booger to get back in.
Recently, I removed the T-Arms and bought Offsets from Van Steel and they put the black polyurethane bushings in (Ecklers?) and now my shims don't fit no matter how much I throw things around... just kiddin.
So after researching on the web, I realize, all I have to do is get is close, as a final alignment is due for various reasons (all new rearend parts). And I do plan on a good alignment anyway.
I will finish installing the T-Arms tomorrow, but are there any techniques to get those dang shims in. I am lucky as the body is off. Oh - also ....anyone with pics of the cotter pin to hold the shims in?
.
Recently, I removed the T-Arms and bought Offsets from Van Steel
and they put the black polyurethane bushings in (Ecklers?) and now my shims don't fit no matter how much I throw things around... just kiddin.So after researching on the web, I realize, all I have to do is get is close, as a final alignment is due for various reasons (all new rearend parts). And I do plan on a good alignment anyway.
I will finish installing the T-Arms tomorrow, but are there any techniques to get those dang shims in. I am lucky as the body is off. Oh - also ....anyone with pics of the cotter pin to hold the shims in?
.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Personally I pulled off the wheels, and jacked the hub up until the halfshaft was horizontal. Then I could push/pull on the front of the TA as much as I wanted. I did have some trouble with the Energy Suspension bushings I used because the big washers on either side of the bushing didn't really stake into the sleeve well because they only have a ~1/8" lip for a chitty interference fit. What I ended up doing was just getting all the inner stack in, then as many as I could on the outer stack, then I pounded a wood chisel down between 2 of the outer shims. That got everything seated and snugged up. Then I just yanked out the chisel and tapped in the last outer shim(s) ... easy peasy. 
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
easy peasy ... huh? 
Yes - I have the wheels off (body too) and the T-arm horizontal and the front bolt already through. The shims are slotted on one end, closed hole on the other end. I like the idea of the wood 'splitter' chisel. WIll try.
But another issue I am facing... the Van Steel Offset T-arms are made of a channel design, with the 'C' part of the channel facing inwards. The Inner shims extend far enough downward (at 45 degrees ish) and to where the lower 'C' portion of the channel of the T-arm hits the shims as it travels downwards. So, if I relocate the shim to be completely below the C channel, then I believe when the T-arm rotates downward, it will be stopped by the protruding portion of the shims. It looks as though the inner shims need shortened!!!
If I rotate the shims upwards and relocate the shims to be nested within the 'C' portion of the channel
.... then I see where the shims would rotate up and down a bit with the travel of the T-arm... that does not sound right either.
any guidance?
Yes - I have the wheels off (body too) and the T-arm horizontal and the front bolt already through. The shims are slotted on one end, closed hole on the other end. I like the idea of the wood 'splitter' chisel. WIll try.
But another issue I am facing... the Van Steel Offset T-arms are made of a channel design, with the 'C' part of the channel facing inwards. The Inner shims extend far enough downward (at 45 degrees ish) and to where the lower 'C' portion of the channel of the T-arm hits the shims as it travels downwards. So, if I relocate the shim to be completely below the C channel, then I believe when the T-arm rotates downward, it will be stopped by the protruding portion of the shims. It looks as though the inner shims need shortened!!!
If I rotate the shims upwards and relocate the shims to be nested within the 'C' portion of the channel
.... then I see where the shims would rotate up and down a bit with the travel of the T-arm... that does not sound right either.
any guidance?
Last edited by kaiserbud; Nov 18, 2009 at 08:38 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Not a splitter chisel, you want something bladed with a long rectangular section so the shims spread evenly all the way down.
something like this ...
I'm having trouble visualizing your problem with the shim placement. With the shims pushed down into the pocket and the cotter pin going through them properly, there's no way for the t-arm to hit them. Let me take a picture .. brb
something like this ...
I'm having trouble visualizing your problem with the shim placement. With the shims pushed down into the pocket and the cotter pin going through them properly, there's no way for the t-arm to hit them. Let me take a picture .. brb
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
I took this picture from right beneath the frame pocket. After you pack the shims in, you need to gently tap them all down into the pocket. They should only protrude above the bottom lip of the pocket by maybe 1/4".
I don't see how your t-arm could hit the shims unless you bent the bejeezus out of it.
I don't see how your t-arm could hit the shims unless you bent the bejeezus out of it.
Last edited by wcsinx; Nov 18, 2009 at 08:34 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
nice job - really good of you to jump on this - let me do my share and take a pic... brb
OK _ the 4th pic down really shows the dilemna.... see how it is nested within the C channel? You can actually see where the shims have scraped against the T-Arm as I tried to rotate the T-Arm downward. It look as if your shims are much shorter and barely sticking out from the frame 'pocket'.... hmmm. I see your cotter pin as well, but I restrained mine with a plastic strap.
OK _ the 4th pic down really shows the dilemna.... see how it is nested within the C channel? You can actually see where the shims have scraped against the T-Arm as I tried to rotate the T-Arm downward. It look as if your shims are much shorter and barely sticking out from the frame 'pocket'.... hmmm. I see your cotter pin as well, but I restrained mine with a plastic strap.
Last edited by kaiserbud; Nov 18, 2009 at 09:13 PM.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
Yeah - I think my issue is that the shims are too long.... I was checking teh AIM for torque values and noticed the length of the shim and how it allowed for a cotter key to go directly through the small hole in the frame pocket and then through the shim hole.
Ecklers SS T-Arm Shims
I was able to confirm this from your pic - thanks.... as I was wondering how a cotter key accomplished the task.
Ecklers SS T-Arm Shims
I was able to confirm this from your pic - thanks.... as I was wondering how a cotter key accomplished the task.
Last edited by kaiserbud; Nov 18, 2009 at 09:50 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Yeah - I think my issue is that the shims are too long.... I was checking teh AIM for torque values and noticed the length of the shim and how it allowed for a cotter key to go directly through the small hole in the frame pocket and then through the shim hole.
Ecklers SS T-Arm Shims
I was able to confirm this from your pic - thanks.... as I was wondering how a cotter key accomplished the task.
Ecklers SS T-Arm Shims
I was able to confirm this from your pic - thanks.... as I was wondering how a cotter key accomplished the task.
That's the same kit I bought from Ecklers as well. Are you sure you're getting the shim slots all the way down onto the pivot bolt? I measured my shims at 4 1/2 inches with 1 7/8 inch slots.
Last edited by wcsinx; Nov 19, 2009 at 07:56 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
ahh - maybe that's the difference - mine are 4 3/4" with only 1" slots
and mine are unable to rotate downward and allow a cotter pin to hold them through that little hole in the frame
and mine are unable to rotate downward and allow a cotter pin to hold them through that little hole in the frame
Last edited by kaiserbud; Nov 19, 2009 at 08:38 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,010
Likes: 3
From: Moon Twp. PA USA
I had a trailing arm shim kit from an aftermarket vendor that had incorrect thickness shims. I called the vendor and told him what I found. He said the shims were US made. He actually went into his inventory and checked the shims in question. He said I was correct, they were oversized.
I also needed 1 or 2 - 1/32" shims. None of the vendors include them in their kits, they may not be manufactured anymore. I was able to get a couple, in mild steel, from the local guy that specializes in rebuilding Corvette rear ends.
FWIW
I also needed 1 or 2 - 1/32" shims. None of the vendors include them in their kits, they may not be manufactured anymore. I was able to get a couple, in mild steel, from the local guy that specializes in rebuilding Corvette rear ends.
FWIW
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
OK - I ordered the shortter shims from a local COrvette dealer and received them yesterday - will install.....
BUT - I have another Q - can anyone post pics of the installed Van Steel T-Arms? I need guidance on the routing of the brake line and Ebrake cable. It seems to put the hydraulic line into 'stressed' S position and the Ebrake cable shielding is really binded as well and still hits the inner side of teh T-Arm. btw - the cable is routed towards the T-Arm and the hydrauloic line is farther toward the inboard of the car.
BUT - I have another Q - can anyone post pics of the installed Van Steel T-Arms? I need guidance on the routing of the brake line and Ebrake cable. It seems to put the hydraulic line into 'stressed' S position and the Ebrake cable shielding is really binded as well and still hits the inner side of teh T-Arm. btw - the cable is routed towards the T-Arm and the hydrauloic line is farther toward the inboard of the car.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
I called Dan at Van Steel.......
He said the shorter shims will resolve the interference issues.
Also he suggested routing the Ebrake cable towards the inner channel of the T-Arm. Then have the hydraulic brake line inboard of the Ebrake cable. He said that the Ebrake does get into a tight S shape. This is the way I had installed them - so all is well.
He said the shorter shims will resolve the interference issues.
Also he suggested routing the Ebrake cable towards the inner channel of the T-Arm. Then have the hydraulic brake line inboard of the Ebrake cable. He said that the Ebrake does get into a tight S shape. This is the way I had installed them - so all is well.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
I wonder what those longer shims they sent you are meant for. It was my understanding that there's only 1 size of t-arm shim for C3's.
Though it doesn't surprise me at all that Ecklers screwed up your order. Fortunately for me this is one of the few things I've ordered from them that they didn't mess up. Gotta wonder how some places stay in business!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
well - these shims are like 20+ years old - so I guess its on me 
But just to give a pic of status.....
T-Arm_Lines_Routing_1
T-Arm_Lines_Routing_2
But just to give a pic of status.....
T-Arm_Lines_Routing_1
T-Arm_Lines_Routing_2
Last edited by kaiserbud; Nov 23, 2009 at 11:50 PM.
