Which plant was it built in? Reason I ask is because those assembled in the Norwood plant had the Vin number stamped above the Oil Filter on the Drivers side (The alternator was already on). It's difficult to see in as it is stamped into the rough casting. So if the build/trim tag under the hood has NOR on it I would be double checking elsewhere.

I could be a dick and say if you got it in 71 how do you know it is the original motor but lets assume you know for a fact it is and you can see the Vin and it wasn't built in NOR. Then I would sell it as the original block (the truth) but I would also disclose it had been repaired once.

 

so let me get this straight, if i wreck my vette and had to replace all the other #parts on the car except the block and the vin # on the windshield frame iM ok????

 

And you can buy those too.

 

I doubt you'd survive a wreck that serious.

 

My guess is that explaining to every a-hole why the pad surface had been decked thereby losing the all-important broach marks would drive you batty.

 

Don't be a Dick, lol.
Notice I said I had in 1971, not purchased in 1971. your assumption is purchase in 71. Cylinder damage occured in 71.
And btw, back in 71 a DZ 302 was not all that desired, most guys wanted the LT1.

 

its really quite simple...you tell the truth and provide receipts for the work. nothing more....and nothing less...any misrepresentation of the facts to increase the value of something is fraud.....it really is that simple

 

My project came with no motor, I picked up a good used BB cheap, left the # as they were,
if someone asks, I simply tell the truth, NO the block #'s don't match.
I could have removed the #'s I could even have restamped if I wanted,
I'm just not that kind of person, to try and decieve someone. 69VETTE

 

Well, sorta. It seems like everyone has their own definition of what "numbers matching" means, but IMO, it should at very least mean that all of your vin and vin derivative stampings match. That would mean you would have to retain the rear part of your driver's side frame rail and your transmission as well as your block and windshield frame.

 

The OP wanted to know how to tell a restamp, not all this give and take from restamping pros and cons. Hey it happens, just try to protect yourself.

It's probably a crap shoot on the good ones.

Look at the C2 and C3 Registry site where there are a bunch of pictures of engine stampings and if anyone can find any common theme, I'd like to hear it.
Some are well aligned, some aren't, some have "ghost" numbers, some don't, some have broach marks you can see, some don't. Then go to Pro Team and look at their stamping pictures-no comment.

My best advice (much of what I did) is to check the stamping on the tranny to make sure they are the same font (the VIN derivatives were stamped on the engine pad and the tranny at the same time using the same equipment). Check the cast date of the block to ensure it is no more than 6 months (should be less) earlier than the build date of the engine. Make sure the casting number is appropriate for the car. Look really closely at the broach marks to be sure they are parallel to the sides or at least aren't "swirles".

Last, the obvious stuff like tach, sway bar, radiator, other equipment, etc.

If it passes these tests, then you have an original engine, or you have one that has been done really well and there's not a lot you can do about it. Or you have an original engine that has had a good restamp. You know, if you have a good restamp, you'll never know unless another engine with your VIN derivative just happens to show up at your garage.

I think this has all gotten kind of silly. If you have a car that is worth the bother of getting the right dated block, the major engine components have numbers that "match" and are consistent with the transmission stamping, and are correctly date-coded, it all runs well and looks good, what's the big deal if the block was rebuilt and restamped? I think the value is there (it's still a 40+ year-old block that's appropriately in a 40+ year-old car where it belongs). Again, the original engine isn't going to knock on your front door--and if it did, how would you know that wasn't a restamp?

I'm not sure that anyone can claim (or prove) beyond the shadow of a doubt that any 2 or more owner car (let alone a 10-owner car) absolutely certainly has the original engine. Really, seriously, how could this be proven?

 

Excellent advice.

Here is a picture of my engine stamp pad, after engine rebuild and paint. Notice the broach marks that run longitudinally. The rebuilder was emphatically told, in writing, DO NOT DECK THE BLOCK.






Here is a picture of my transmission stamp. Notice the way the second to last digit "7" is raised slightly in the stamp gang, same as on the engine stamp. The fonts and their spacing are EXACTLY the same, because they were struck with the same stamp, by the same person, one right after the other. What are the chances that a person could find correct casting numbered blocks and transmissions with cast date codes that would all correspond to the car's build? I DON"T THINK SO!

 

[QUOTE=Ravine Speed;1572216489


....I think this has all gotten kind of silly. If you have a car that is worth the bother of getting the right dated block, the major engine components have numbers that "match" and are consistent with the transmission stamping, and are correctly date-coded, it all runs well and looks good, what's the big deal if the block was rebuilt and restamped? I think the value is there (it's still a 40+ year-old block that's appropriately in a 40+ year-old car where it belongs). Again, the original engine isn't going to knock on your front door--and if it did, how would you know that wasn't a restamp?
?[/QUOTE]
whats the big deal??? nothing if it was disclosed......everything if its not disclosed it called FRAUD.....no equovication on this one.....there has to be a zero tolerance on fraud.....no if ands or buts.....just put your self on the other end of any business dealing where fraud is involved and you paid more then something was worth....how would feel then?

 

The OM wants to know the best way to discover a restamp.

I never said anything about disclosure, I said that I felt the value is nearly the same because the restoration was done well. I also think the word/concept of "fraud" regarding restoration of original auto components is too strong.

As I said, it is virtually impossible to PROVE that any car has its original engine, as I wrote, unless it's a one owner car and you are the one owner, and then you can only really prove it to yourself.

Regarding disclosure, you can characterize it as "numbers-matching" in my earlier scenario, and you would be correct. If an owner down the line later then characterizes it as "matching-numbers/original motor" this is pure speculation because it is virtually impossible to prove that it is the original engine. I ask any Forum Member to tell me how they can PROVE that an engine was original.

My point here is that a good restoration, properly done, including a restamp, in my mind, is about as good as it gets relative to value, and it is almost impossible to disprove its originality, unless the original engine shows up at your doorstep.

 

Good answer.

 

I think finding proper blocks and transmissions in the appropriate date codes are more than possible, but this little "quirk" in your VIN gang is absolute gold for you! What a gift to have the 2 VINs so easily related. Good for you.