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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 02:14 PM
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From: COOKEVILLE TN
Default Control arm shims

What is the average number of shims needed to get the right camber on a '73? Or is this a stupid question? And why would there be a ton of shims on it now and still need more? What is the maximum number of shims and still be safe?



73 in 10ec
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 03:30 PM
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Define "a ton" and more needed. Sounds like she might have been whacked once upon a time.

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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 04:31 PM
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Hi Terry,
I'm thinking the same as Mike. To me, a lot of shims would indicate a frame that's been hit, a bent A-arm, or perhaps a front end that's not assembled correctly.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 04:55 PM
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It's got maybe 5 or 6 on all 4 bolts, I rebuilt the front end and it had a bent crossshaft and I replaced it. One of the bolts is not long enough to add another thick shim ! Is there anyway to adjust the Lower Control Arm ?
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 06:31 PM
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I believe I read somewhere that any more than 4 of the thicker shims is not acceptable...need to look for a problem.
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 08:23 PM
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look for signs of repair on the inner fenders. This is a sure sign the the frame is tweeked most likely from a prior accident
Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi Terry,
I'm thinking the same as Mike. To me, a lot of shims would indicate a frame that's been hit, a bent A-arm, or perhaps a front end that's not assembled correctly.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 08:42 PM
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On my 76, the crossmember under the engine was hit. It rolled towards the back of the car, requiring a "ton" of shims on the front bolt and none on the back bolt. I had to have a frame specialist pull the crossmember forward to get it aligned. The lower control arms mount on the crossmember, so they moved with it.
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Old Nov 26, 2009 | 12:45 AM
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Default Control arm shims

You might want to install a spreader bar like the one VBP sells. You would be suprised how much the front crossmember flexes. Put a jack under the front crossmember and lift the front wheels off the ground. Then install the spreader bar and lower the car and I will bet you could take half of the shims out to maintain the correct camber. When the crossmember flexes from age or whatever, the more shims you need. You can also purchase offset upper a-arm brackets and install the offset pointing out to lower the count of shims for correct camber.
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Old Nov 27, 2009 | 11:56 PM
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Scratch my last advice on shims. I was thinking backwards. If the crossmember is weak, you would have to remove shims to correct camber. Sorry for the mixup.
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 12:16 AM
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My 77' has 2&2 on each contrl arm. they vary in thickness, have a shop check the front rail's they could be bent or not plumb [what I mean is they could have flexed due to a hit or a bad allignment that just got worse]
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 02:38 PM
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From: COOKEVILLE TN
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Would a spreader bar not do the opposite of what I need?
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by TERRY CLARK
Would a spreader bar not do the opposite of what I need?
Yes, you would need a squeezer bar. A lot of shims would imply the lower a-arms were pulled inwards.

What is your front camber reading right now? Go get an angle gauge if you don't already have one.
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 09:50 AM
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From: COOKEVILLE TN
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
Yes, you would need a squeezer bar. A lot of shims would imply the lower a-arms were pulled inwards.

What is your front camber reading right now? Go get an angle gauge if you don't already have one.


I've got about 1 degree on both sides. Shims - left front ( 4 thick & 1 thin ) left rear ( 4 thick, 1 thin & 1 thick ) right front ( 4 thick ) right rear ( 1 thick, 1 thin & 2 thick ).
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