Door closing issues...
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 11,608
Likes: 778
From: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
Door closing issues...
I have seen this on many c3's the door closes and latches part way, you have to really close it hard to get it to close all the way,
In my case the handle is wicked hard to squeeze to open the door,
So what should I start looking at to fix this on the drivers side as my passenger door is perfect,
In my case the handle is wicked hard to squeeze to open the door,
So what should I start looking at to fix this on the drivers side as my passenger door is perfect,
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 15
Same on mine. I think the driver side door hinge bushing is worn but there is no obvious sign of this in door height at rear of door. Also my door striker had the rubber cushion come out from under the rotating band. Adjusting striker helped some but drivers side is not as smooth as pass. side. mds...
Last edited by mds3013; Jan 22, 2010 at 09:27 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,993
Likes: 9
From: Gig Harbor WA
Bats,
Having just hung the doors on my 72, if the large metal post that the latch "latches to" on the rear door jamb is not adjusted correctly up/down, it can be a b#tch to actuate the door handle. Out of adjustment it can put the door latch in a bind situation. Also, that post adjustment "inboard and outboard" will determine how far your door closes...
You probably knew all that!
Rob
Oh yea, as above...the striker!
Having just hung the doors on my 72, if the large metal post that the latch "latches to" on the rear door jamb is not adjusted correctly up/down, it can be a b#tch to actuate the door handle. Out of adjustment it can put the door latch in a bind situation. Also, that post adjustment "inboard and outboard" will determine how far your door closes...
You probably knew all that!
Rob
Oh yea, as above...the striker!
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 11,608
Likes: 778
From: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
Bats,
Having just hung the doors on my 72, if the large metal post that the latch "latches to" on the rear door jamb is not adjusted correctly up/down, it can be a b#tch to actuate the door handle. Out of adjustment it can put the door latch in a bind situation. Also, that post adjustment "inboard and outboard" will determine how far your door closes...
You probably knew all that!
Rob
Oh yea, as above...the striker!
Having just hung the doors on my 72, if the large metal post that the latch "latches to" on the rear door jamb is not adjusted correctly up/down, it can be a b#tch to actuate the door handle. Out of adjustment it can put the door latch in a bind situation. Also, that post adjustment "inboard and outboard" will determine how far your door closes...
You probably knew all that!
Rob
Oh yea, as above...the striker!
I started to wonder perhaps some linkage is bent in there or something,
alos when the handle is at rest rather than sag a little it actually looks a hair too high
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 850
Likes: 36
From: Providence RI
I've got this problem with my passenger-side door.
I get the feeling the linkage in the door is freezing/sticking, and the binding in the linkage is holding the latch open just a tiny bit, not letting the latch close all the way all the time very easily.
I get the feeling the linkage in the door is freezing/sticking, and the binding in the linkage is holding the latch open just a tiny bit, not letting the latch close all the way all the time very easily.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Naw...I didnt "really" know any of that, just the very basic idea, I will much around with the striker post, but that handle is hard as hell to mash even with the door open
I started to wonder perhaps some linkage is bent in there or something,
alos when the handle is at rest rather than sag a little it actually looks a hair too high
I started to wonder perhaps some linkage is bent in there or something,
alos when the handle is at rest rather than sag a little it actually looks a hair too high
they can break really easy, there is a metal cast piece on the bottom there, connected to a lever....you need pull the door latch outta there and clean/lube make sure it works really easy....then get that handle outta there before the disaster happens, you maybe see a loose rivit on the pivit....so tap it home again....carefully....this is hard to do, but get some wheel bearing grease under the handle flapper on top there, to assist it's operation on the mechanism....less stress on the casting...
you need a 1/4 inch universal on a short socket to your handle for the bolts holding that handle assy to the door.....
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,709
Likes: 3
From: Savannah GA
Assessing the problem here will require you remove the door panel and the sound deadener if it's still there. Get a strong flashlight and have someone work the door handle while you look for rust/gunk/slop in the rods and latch mechanism. Chances are good the cause will show readily. DO NOT simply hose the interior of your door with a penetrating lubricant in an effort to loosen things up... it can bleed through from the inside making life suck later. Remove the offending bits from the door for cleaning or repair.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 3
From: CA
had a similar problem with the passenger side outside handle. Very hard to work. Took it out and lubed the lever as mrvette stated above and also lubed the pin that the handle pivots on. I recommend taking out the latch first for easier access to the nuts holding down the handle.
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 48
Likes: 3
From: Jackson,NJ
Is it that you have to slam the door hard for the locking gear to close on the striker which would be why the door latch is so hard to release from the striker? I changed out the hinge pin on my door last night and now I’m facing the same issue. If the door striker is move out to relieve the pressure my door doesn’t line up with the back body. Is this your issue as well.
