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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 02:20 PM
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Default Oil pan/drain plug

My oil drain plug didn't come off easily. I went to put it back on after draining the oil, and it won't catch. I rubbed my finger around the hole of the oil pan, and I cannot feel any threads. Do I need to buy a whole new oil pan now or is there some other way to fix this?
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 02:56 PM
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There are self threading rplacemnets or you can buy a slightly larger tap and bolt and rethread it latger yourself. Put grease on the tap to catch the cuttings as much as possible.

Re-pour your old oil thru the engine to wash as much out as possible and you may consider a magnetic oil plug which has it's advantages anyway.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 05:31 PM
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So I went to pep boys and got 2 (one single and one double oversized) of those self-tapping replacements, and I can't get either of them to go on right. I also saw that they had a rubber plug that expands when you tighten a wingnut. Do you think that will work, or should I just go ahead and buy a new oil pan? All of these methods just seem like temporary fixes to me...how hard is it to remove and replace the oil pan?

Thanks in advance
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 05:55 PM
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A C3 is one of a few cars that you can remove the pan with the motor in place. You will have to remove the steering linkage at the front of the pan. mds...
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 06:16 PM
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Me thinks your toast. If your not comfortable with dropping the steering linkage and pulling the pan you should seel out and expirenced local shop to do the work. Should be around 2 maybe 3 hours labor plus parts, oil, filter. Also make sure you buy or spec out a real GM or quality after market pan like milodon. Those cheep after market chrome pans are junk and will leek forever.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tgauld1
So I went to pep boys and got 2 (one single and one double oversized) of those self-tapping replacements, and I can't get either of them to go on right. I also saw that they had a rubber plug that expands when you tighten a wingnut. Do you think that will work, or should I just go ahead and buy a new oil pan? All of these methods just seem like temporary fixes to me...how hard is it to remove and replace the oil pan?

Thanks in advance
FWIW, I'd. . . Clean out the drain plug hole. Use a paper towel and get some light up there and see if the actual threads are still there and if running a new drain plug of the right pitch will go in. If not then I'd drop the pan, Get a replacement and install it. As old as your car is, the oil has been changed a lot. There's a chance that like all things, the threads are just worn out.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 09:13 PM
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After trying those replacement plugs and failing to solve my problem, I tapped the hole...all I need to do now is go get a 9/16 bolt tomorrow morning and it will be fixed...hopefully.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 09:15 PM
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Removing the steering linkage to get the oil pan off isn't that difficult. You just have to remove the two bolts holding the arms on the passenger side of the car and swing the assembly down out of the way a few inches. It doesn't take too much time. Then the pan removal is simple. Might be a good time to replace the old gasket with a nice one-piece reusable gasket as well.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by tgauld1
After trying those replacement plugs and failing to solve my problem, I tapped the hole...all I need to do now is go get a 9/16 bolt tomorrow morning and it will be fixed...hopefully.
Well that's a good first step. Be sure to get a nice copper washer to use with the bolt.

Have done this countless times, there is plenty of meat around the drain hole to handle the new threads.

Don't use the JiffyLube places any more.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 09:44 PM
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Looking at the back of your car it looks to be an 1980-82. If so
those pans are hard to find and many aftermarket pans don't fit
without denting them to clear the steering linkage. Therefore if your
pan is in good condition except for the drain plug I would
try a shop in your area that does welding and see if they can
weld a new nut on the inside of the pan that has the same threads
as the stock drain plug. This requires removing the pan but as
others mentioned is easy.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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The oil drain plug stripped on my 69 vette back in 1972. Bought a rubber plug and 2 weeks later cruising at 80 mph, the cornor of my eye caught the oil pressure gage rapidly falling. Immediately shut down the engine and coasted to the side of the road leaving a trail of oil behind me and a small pool of oil under the car. The dam rubber plug blew out. I was lucky.

The Fix: Dad's old time mechanic welded a large nut right over the drain hole and gave me a new plug. Been that way since. Cheap money, permanent solution and nothing to remove.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mark79,80
Looking at the back of your car it looks to be an 1980-82. If so
those pans are hard to find and many aftermarket pans don't fit
without denting them to clear the steering linkage. Therefore if your
pan is in good condition except for the drain plug I would
try a shop in your area that does welding and see if they can
weld a new nut on the inside of the pan that has the same threads
as the stock drain plug. This requires removing the pan but as
others mentioned is easy.
I just replaced my pan with a standard 4 quart pan from summit on my 81, and found out the original pick up won't work in the shorter sump pans on the earlier models. So for another 11 bucks I swapped the pickup as well and a one peice gasket and it worked perfectly.
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 12:08 AM
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Reworking the original pan is the best idea. Drill & tap to a larger size, if you can; remove pan and have a new nut welded on it, if necessary.
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 09:11 PM
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I just wanted to thank everyone for their input first of all. I ended up taping the hole bigger and using a bolt...it solved everything. Thanks again everyone!


Troy
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 81pilot
I just replaced my pan with a standard 4 quart pan from summit on my 81, and found out the original pick up won't work in the shorter sump pans on the earlier models. So for another 11 bucks I swapped the pickup as well and a one peice gasket and it worked perfectly.
Hey Pilot, I have thought of replacing my oil pan with a slick aluminum pan that has those "go fast" fins in them ....from your experience, is there a certain size I need to get then?? Don't really want to have to mess with changing the oil pump, but I also don't want my car to be dead in the water with a non-fitting pan either. Any help here buddy?

Deja
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