read this reply and follow it....clears up many no starts issues

 

I run a factory starter with no heat sheild and headers and have never had a hot start problem in 4.5 years of driving. I did have the headers ceramic coated, but ran for 1.5 years before they were coated with no problem. I did just have mine rebuilt as it was not sounding right on any start up, cold or hot. Now it spins the engine at 500 rpm on just the starter.

 

yes, works on everything except a 'Ford....

but a good cranking system would never use or need this extreme measure

 

thanks

 

The thing i got didn't work... i got the opposite, because it kept the starter warm

anyway... i noticed that the wire is not in a good condition.... i looked on willcox and they only have this http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...oducts_id=4262 which is too much (i just need the starter wire!)

What do you think? Could it be the wire (i will post a pic)? If i change the starter, should a buy a regular one (60$) or a better one (i saw some in another topic, now i don't remember brands or specs, but i remember it was 250$ )

thanks for the help!

 

Or maybe i should buy this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SU...sion|Automatic

and solve my problems!!

mm

 

I have that Summit mini starter on my 68 L36. One of the best mods I have made. Heat soak solved. I have no doubt there are other solutions, but this worked for me.

 

My 454 was driving me crazy with the not wanting to start when hot a few years back. It was 100% stock with original starter rebuilt . Still it would like lose ability to turn the engine over ..drove me crazy, I finally got it fixed myself .

SOLUTION ...... NEW SET OF BATTERY CABLES . The old cables get CORROSION inside the plastic coating from age. Mine were original. This corrosion can break down the stranded wires ability to provide the current required to spin the engine when the tem p changes and load increases.

Nobody ever sems to change these , because they are a PITA and yopu can't necessarily see anything wrong beacuse the corrosion is hidden in the cable. But its there all right. , you have to thread the postive though the car. and it takes a bit of time and you need to remove the seat and some panels..... but ti is doable for the average guy.

My starter was fresh rebuilt, I had NEW GROUND LUG and NEW BATT. When hot the engine would barely turn over ...exactly like the one man decribed getting gas. Mine did the same thing.

The only thing left WAS the POSTIVE cable....

Upon installing that positive cable......the motor SPUN LIKE CRAZY , I mean I have never seen it crank so fast in 16 years at that point. WOW!!

Now NO MATTER HOW cold or HOT it is out side the engine turns easy and starts in a couple seconds. Now when I stop on a 95 degree hot day for a COKE or gas , I can turn it off and it spins and starts the same as if it was cold.

It was a small pain to change , part wasn't expensive, pleae don't buy the small cheap crap from a auto parts store....spend an extra 20.00 bucks and get a GM or OEM "REAL" full sized cable to carry the amps.

Everything about the car worked better with this cable, it now had the ability to supply the or keep up the correct voltage to all systems.

 

The original battery cables were copper clad aluminum. Although they obviously have lasted for years on many cars, aluminum cable does have it's down sides. It is outlawed in many locals for residential and commercial wiring.
The biggest problem is corrosion at the connections, has about 60% the conductivity of copper, less strength and increased size for the amp rating.
The best bang for the buck is to use a pure copper cable. I like welding cable and solid copper ends swaged and soldered, especially when such a PITA to install the pos cable in the tunnel.
Don't know what the GM replacements are made of.

Oem



Welding cable



New copper neg cable

 

[QUOTE=noonie;1573491041]The original battery cables were copper clad aluminum. Although they obviously have lasted for years on many cars, aluminum cable does have it's down sides. It is outlawed in many locals for residential and commercial wiring.
The biggest problem is corrosion at the connections, has about 60% the conductivity of copper, less strength and increased size for the amp rating. The best bang for the buck is to use a pure copper cable. I like welding cable and solid copper ends swaged and soldered, especially when such a PITA to install the pos cable in the tunnel.
Don't know what the GM replacements are made of.
Oem
Welding cable[IMG].........

Finally someone here got the message! ...but the unbelievers that insist that the car wont crank from 'heat soak' will continue buying snake oil remedies and applying them to their old Vettes that wont crank when stopping for gas or anything else..and then bitch to the guy that just sold him that "defective' starter he didn`t need.....

 

[QUOTE=Ironcross;1573501437]Besides cleaning the cooling system, that's one of the first things I do on an older car. No sense being stranded over bad electrics.

That aside, on the 75, it does have an intermitant hot start problem that developed recently even with the good copper cables, but being the original starter, I just have to take time to replace the solenoid.

And as far as the Fords are concerned, despite using the remote relay, Ford did have a recall on their oem mini starter, they revised the start wire connection on the starter bendix solenoid itself, so installing a remote relay always isn't the cure all.

 

3HP High Torque mini starter, $100, problem gone! If I could solve my vacuum issues for $100, I'd have done it $500 ago!

 

just bought.

My battery cables are almost new.....