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I've have a '71 that I recently acquired and I'm guessing has been used in autocross or something similar previously. The rear suspension is Extremely stiff, yes with a capital E. The car has a 1.125" front sway bar and a 1" rear sway bar, along with an unidentified glass rear spring. I'm planning on removing the rear sway bar connection and seeing if it helps with the stiffness. Any comments if this is a waste of time? Also, what would be an appropriate size sway bar. I'm not likely going to do the autocross thing but I do like to have decent handling as I live in a mountain area and lots of mountain cruising is planned. Another concern is that I recently tried to do a burnout just to see how it would react and it wheel hopped really bad. Being new to Corvette's in general is the wheel hop normal? How can I help this issue? I would like to take the car to the local area dragstrip on street nights but don't want to destroy the rear end in doing so.
Welcome to the World of Corvettes..... If you want a smooth ride Buy a Cadillac. All C-3 Corvettes are stiff, and harsh rides. Mine has gone to the extreme. Aluminum and Poly Bushings......Looking for a Bathroom after about 30 miles......LOL
...I'm planning on removing the rear sway bar connection ...
Another concern is that I recently tried to do a burnout just to see how it would react and it wheel hopped really bad. Being new to Corvette's in general is the wheel hop normal? How can I help this issue? I would like to take the car to the local area dragstrip on street nights but don't want to destroy the rear end in doing so.
Most do not have a rear bar & some remove it when it does, so yes remove it & see how you like it.
The hi perf. FE-7 sus. has 1 1/8 front & 7/16 rear bars.
No wheel hop is not normal.
Thanks for the welcome to the world of Corvette's. I traded a '27 Ford Roadster drag car for this '71. Overall I'm pretty pleased with the trade. Its a big block 4speed car, non matching numbers, although I'm fairly sure that it is an original LS5 car. Overall the car is in good rust free shape with only a little surface rust on the frame, it appears to have been undercoated when new. The body has had flares put on at some point but other than that it is in reasonable condition. The interior is pretty rough and the electrical has been cobbled by someone. I've fixed most of the electrical issues over the last couple of months so it is coming around.
I'm not looking for a Cadillac ride, I've had several cars over the years with stiff suspensions but this car seems over the top.
You'll just have to get use to the ride quality or lack of it. All big block vettes came with the rear sway bar, so you may want to keep it there. I read some where that removing, or adding a sway bar can screw up the handeling balance. GM put it there for a reason on BB"s. You may want to put on a softer rear composite spring.
Post some good detail pics of your vette! We love pics.
Glenn
You have to realize one thing. Suspensions work together. Changing one thing will affect something else. For example, keeping the 1.125" front sway bar and removing the 1" rear sway bar will make the car understeer. Changing a stiff rear spring and leaving unknown front springs will cause the way the car handles.
I would buy a spring set. You can probably get a used set from someone upgrading if want. But a new matched set would probably the way to go. If you want a bit more handling, the F-41 is the way to go. Avoid a Daytona suspension.
Hi rb,
I'll welcome you too and also ask for some pictures as GD70 did.
Good luck as you get to know and enjoy your 71.
I believe that in 71, 454 cars had a 9/16" rear sway bar, whether the car had std suspension or the F-41 option.
Regards,
Alan
I guess that I should have clarified what I was attempting to ask. I don't want to eliminate the sway bar long term. What I'm asking is if I temporarily disconnect the sway bar would I be able to get a better feeling for how stiff the spring is vs. how much the sway bar is affecting the stiffness. In the end I will likely move back to a factory sway bar setup. I guess I'm trying to figure out how stiff the spring is on its own and if I need to replace the spring to begin with.
a 1" sway bas on the back is pretty stiff and Yes you can disconnect it to see what the rear spring/Shock setup is like. If the PO followed thru along with the bar you may find a very stiff spring also. What shocks are on it?
Welcome aboard
I guess that I should have clarified what I was attempting to ask. I don't want to eliminate the sway bar long term. What I'm asking is if I temporarily disconnect the sway bar would I be able to get a better feeling for how stiff the spring is vs. how much the sway bar is affecting the stiffness. In the end I will likely move back to a factory sway bar setup. I guess I'm trying to figure out how stiff the spring is on its own and if I need to replace the spring to begin with.
I'll try and post a few pics later today.
Springs add to the stiffness of the car, not the sway bar. If you disconnect the sway bar(s) my guess is that it will feel no different. Stock front springs are 280 inch pounds. F-41 are 550, Daytona in 860 inch/pounds. I do not remember rear spring rates off the top of my head.
But your unknown fiberglass spring could be anything. You will have to see if you have part numbers to determine the spring rate. Some like fiberglass springs. After talking to Dick Guldstrand (who remarkably still answers the phone) I stuck with a steel multi-leaf spring. The interleaf friction is something Dick claims is desirable.
Here are a few pics of my first Vette, and of the rear sway bar connection. It is far from perfect but give me a couple of years I'll make some significant improvements. Right now I'm just trying to make it into a fun, and reliable driver. I believe that I'm close to the reliable side so now I'm beginning the personal preference stuff. I'll get some better pics when the rain stops.