stuck hood
#2
Racer
Member Since: May 2005
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Do a search on here. It seems to be a common problem. When I reinstalled my freshly painted hood last year on my 69 it stuck. Only way to get it open was to go in from the nose and unbolt the hinges. This happened three times. There was no way of I could get the adjustment right after trying all the tricks on this forum I took one members advice and now I have magnets. I took the entire latch system out.
JR
JR
#3
Instructor
High chance that the latch is stuck, that can easily happen if the latch handle wasn't pushed in all the way when you clamped down the hood. You'll need to come up from under the car and release the latch by hand, a little bit of a tough reach on a 68. On my 70 I just take the egg crate off the side and open the whole thing up and reach in.
#4
Melting Slicks
Here's what a search will reveal:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/sear...rchid=15638697
You will even find some suggestions for hidden release features if you don't want to repeat of this aggravation.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/sear...rchid=15638697
You will even find some suggestions for hidden release features if you don't want to repeat of this aggravation.
#7
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They aren't made for hoods but I got them at a local nut & bolt store. I got the idea from this forum but can't remember the members name. Works great and I can take some pics for you if you like. It will be a couple weeks. I work away from home.
JR
JR
#8
Racer
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Pics would be good. I spent another afternoon trying to adjust the hood. I was able to run a prod up through the side vents to get the hood open. No fun
#10
Melting Slicks
http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette...-320-3852.html
#12
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The wiper tray theory does not fly on 1968 models The wiper tray has the wiper mechanism blocking any access.
I have an additional oddity - I have a 69 hood on an early 68 coupe. I can reach the passenger side release and pull on the cable, but nothing happens. I can reach up from under the car and move the actuator that strikes the drivers side release, but still no good. Is it possible that I tightened the hood spring/pin too much?
I have an additional oddity - I have a 69 hood on an early 68 coupe. I can reach the passenger side release and pull on the cable, but nothing happens. I can reach up from under the car and move the actuator that strikes the drivers side release, but still no good. Is it possible that I tightened the hood spring/pin too much?
#13
Pro
The wiper tray theory does not fly on 1968 models The wiper tray has the wiper mechanism blocking any access.
I have an additional oddity - I have a 69 hood on an early 68 coupe. I can reach the passenger side release and pull on the cable, but nothing happens. I can reach up from under the car and move the actuator that strikes the drivers side release, but still no good. Is it possible that I tightened the hood spring/pin too much?
I have an additional oddity - I have a 69 hood on an early 68 coupe. I can reach the passenger side release and pull on the cable, but nothing happens. I can reach up from under the car and move the actuator that strikes the drivers side release, but still no good. Is it possible that I tightened the hood spring/pin too much?
Here's what I did. First go up under the nose and loosen the 4 bolts holding the hood. Don't take the bolts all the way out. If they are loose enough, you should be able to wriggle/shift/move the hood enough to get it off the pins.
Second, put something like heavy tape over the latches (so they don't get latched) and reset the hood so it is straight and true with consistent gaps with the fenders. Tighten the hood bolts.
Now, put some masking tape on the latch brackets (hood) real tight like a drum skin. Dab a little paint on the very top of the pins (engine compartment) and lower the hood gently until the pins touch the tape and leave a mark. In my experience, the pins should hit the leading edge of the latch. Now adjust the whole pin bracket unit with the bolts until it hits the tape where you want it to.
If you take your time, this should work.
#14
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hood hold down
good advice - I will give it a try also
I have a similar problem - Passenger side will not latch but drivers side does .
I usually just leave it unlatched when I drive it since it always "pops up" when I drive. but I'll try the adjustment method again..
gotta love this spring weather ! great for the vert or the Harley - and the riding lawn mower toooo..
I have a similar problem - Passenger side will not latch but drivers side does .
I usually just leave it unlatched when I drive it since it always "pops up" when I drive. but I'll try the adjustment method again..
gotta love this spring weather ! great for the vert or the Harley - and the riding lawn mower toooo..
#15
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I just went through this on my 74, the pass site would pop up and the driver side wouldn't. I may have just got lucky but I looked at the hood and the alignment on the sides to see how it was sitting and saw that it was sitting more toward the pass side, so I pop the hood latch and got on the pass side and with a little pressure pushed toward the driver side while pulling up (carefully but somewhat forcefully) and it finally came undone. It may or may not work for you but worth trying.
David
David
#16
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I had the exact problem. The pins actually get caught on the latch bracket so even when the latch is pulled, it does not release. The problem is the hood placement and pin/spring adjustment.
Here's what I did. First go up under the nose and loosen the 4 bolts holding the hood. Don't take the bolts all the way out. If they are loose enough, you should be able to wriggle/shift/move the hood enough to get it off the pins.
Second, put something like heavy tape over the latches (so they don't get latched) and reset the hood so it is straight and true with consistent gaps with the fenders. Tighten the hood bolts.
Now, put some masking tape on the latch brackets (hood) real tight like a drum skin. Dab a little paint on the very top of the pins (engine compartment) and lower the hood gently until the pins touch the tape and leave a mark. In my experience, the pins should hit the leading edge of the latch. Now adjust the whole pin bracket unit with the bolts until it hits the tape where you want it to.
If you take your time, this should work.
Here's what I did. First go up under the nose and loosen the 4 bolts holding the hood. Don't take the bolts all the way out. If they are loose enough, you should be able to wriggle/shift/move the hood enough to get it off the pins.
Second, put something like heavy tape over the latches (so they don't get latched) and reset the hood so it is straight and true with consistent gaps with the fenders. Tighten the hood bolts.
Now, put some masking tape on the latch brackets (hood) real tight like a drum skin. Dab a little paint on the very top of the pins (engine compartment) and lower the hood gently until the pins touch the tape and leave a mark. In my experience, the pins should hit the leading edge of the latch. Now adjust the whole pin bracket unit with the bolts until it hits the tape where you want it to.
If you take your time, this should work.
Great advice! My hood is open and I've been playing with the pin adjustment. Of course thats when I decide to go play softball and tear ligaments in my thumb, prompting a trip to the doctor and a hard cast all the way up to my elbow.
Very good advice! I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now!
#17
My 1978 had the same issue, the drivers side would pop open, and the passenger side wouldn't. I was able to reach next to the latch and pull the cable to get the passenger side to pop open. The adjustment on the drivers side was at its loosest length so I moved the pin to the other end. I did find a loose cable hanging from the passenger side latch down past the engine and frame with a loop on the end. Apparently the previous owner had this issue and fashioned this cable for opening it with, by locating the cable loop hanging under the car behind the engine and front tire.....nice to know that now!