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Removing Rivets Aint No Joke

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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 10:49 PM
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Default Removing Rivets Aint No Joke

I decided to remove the rotors today so that I could get them turned. Man, those rivets are something. I went over to Sears and picked up some drill bits because the ones my brother let me use were no good and got bent up right away. I still have to remove one of the front rotors, but that will have to wait till tomorrow. Now that the rotors are out I'm going to get to work on the suspension. I still have to rebuild the trailer arms, but am not sure if I should just buy the tools and rebuild them myself. A local Vette shop charges $600 to rebuild both of them, but I don't feel right paying that much money for something I can do myself. Are all of the tools they sell for this really necessary?
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 12:06 AM
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You should always leave the rotors attached to the hub when you get them turned- they're not supposed to be separated when being machined.
Do a search on 'rotor runout'.
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
You should always leave the rotors attached to the hub when you get them turned- they're not supposed to be separated when being machined.
Do a search on 'rotor runout'.
I guess I should have researched that before. I'm going to search for that. Thanks
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 02:23 AM
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Cobalt drill bits cut the rivets like butter...

I had my Trailing arms rebuilt locally for $800 so $600 sounds like a good deal.. I assume that includes new parking brake hardware and shoes..I went with stainless hardware on mine..
I did most of my own work on my car, but this is one of the few things that I felt like I needed to pay someone to do as the last thing I want to do is have to remove the trailing arms again because I didnt get them right. From what I understand, the correct tools to do them would cost at least as much as the labor to have yours done..
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 12:59 PM
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I'm going to have to call them up again and ask them if they include new parking brake hardware. I did use cobalt drills, but those rivets are long and can be a PITA. I'm about to go take the last front rotor out.
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 02:41 PM
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Yup, I remember doing that. You need a few sharp bits
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 10:25 AM
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Default Vader Vette

Originally Posted by jordan89
I decided to remove the rotors today so that I could get them turned. Man, those rivets are something. I went over to Sears and picked up some drill bits because the ones my brother let me use were no good and got bent up right away. I still have to remove one of the front rotors, but that will have to wait till tomorrow. Now that the rotors are out I'm going to get to work on the suspension. I still have to rebuild the trailer arms, but am not sure if I should just buy the tools and rebuild them myself. A local Vette shop charges $600 to rebuild both of them, but I don't feel right paying that much money for something I can do myself. Are all of the tools they sell for this really necessary?
Bought one of those drill sharpening tools its great one drill bit multiple jobs I try not to get the coated drill bits as they are only hard on the tips most of the time.
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 06:31 PM
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Default Trailing arms

jordan,

I just purchased a '74 from a Forum member who lives in Fremont and before the car was shipped, he had the trailing arms reconditioned by a local Corvette specialist, forgive spelling, Dave Herlinger???. Cost about US$900, but included another stub axle and stainless steel parking hardware, etc.

Rotors have under two thou runout and backing plates are re-anodised etc. The park brake cable mounts have been relocated and it is all painted shiny black. The arms look better than new and will no doubt last a long time.

I don't know the level of your mechanical skills, but I do know that you need a lot of both specialist tools and considerable prior experience to do a top notch job on the trailing arms. Have you got that?

Take my advise, ante up the money and have the arms re-built by a professional, you should never have to worry about them again.

Regards from Down Under

aussiejohn
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
You should always leave the rotors attached to the hub when you get them turned- they're not supposed to be separated when being machined.
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by aussiejohn
jordan,

I just purchased a '74 from a Forum member who lives in Fremont and before the car was shipped, he had the trailing arms reconditioned by a local Corvette specialist, forgive spelling, Dave Herlinger???. Cost about US$900, but included another stub axle and stainless steel parking hardware, etc.

Rotors have under two thou runout and backing plates are re-anodised etc. The park brake cable mounts have been relocated and it is all painted shiny black. The arms look better than new and will no doubt last a long time.

I don't know the level of your mechanical skills, but I do know that you need a lot of both specialist tools and considerable prior experience to do a top notch job on the trailing arms. Have you got that?

Take my advise, ante up the money and have the arms re-built by a professional, you should never have to worry about them again.

Regards from Down Under

aussiejohn


I know of a few around here that have had Dave rebuild their trailing arms, and they are very happy with his work. Wish I'd have known about him when I did mine
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
You should always leave the rotors attached to the hub when you get them turned- they're not supposed to be separated when being machined.
Do a search on 'rotor runout'.
I agree with this on the front but how are you going to do this on the rear.

I do not like to turn the rotors myself. They will get pretty thin if they need to be turned. Make sure you measure the thickness of the rotors after they have been turned. If they are to thin put new ones on.
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 08:35 PM
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In the first instance C3 Corvette rotors do not need to be 'turned' as a routine procedure as is practised on modern cars. Most cars go cradle to grave without having it done, or needing it.

Rotors that are being turned should stay attached to their respective hubs, front or rear. The rears can be done while the assembly is apart and the spindle shaft inserted into a lathe. If the rear bearings are not being rebuilt, an on-car lathe should be used.

This is all to avoid the common rotor runout problem.
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 09:46 PM
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Guess owning a machine shop and keeping the bits was a good idea.
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 09:54 PM
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A lot of good info. I think I'm going to let somebody else do the trailer arms for me. Thanks everyone for the great info.
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 10:24 AM
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You may want to consider some rebuild services listed on ebay. I must say I'm intrigued! Here's a few with what look like great prices. Has anyone ever bought these from any of these places?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corve...#ht_1918wt_735

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-...s#ht_653wt_961

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CORVE...s#ht_500wt_976
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 12:44 PM
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That seems like a really good deal. I'm going to have to look into that some more.
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