Anyone ever switch interior colors?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 15,161
Likes: 17
From: coffee
Anyone ever switch interior colors?
My '81 has an oddball "74I" dark red interior code, and everything in the interior is horribly faded and/or worn.
I will be replacing the carpet, seat covers and door panels in any case, and probably the dash too, so I figured that I'd see if anyone had done a complete color switchover on an interior color.
All of the ancilliary panels look pretty dingy and could use a repaint in any case, but if I were ordering my car today, I'd go with a black interior, so I'm wondering how much additional effort I'd be looking at.
My car is and will always be a long way off from original condition, so that part doesn't bother me.
Thanks all.
I will be replacing the carpet, seat covers and door panels in any case, and probably the dash too, so I figured that I'd see if anyone had done a complete color switchover on an interior color.
All of the ancilliary panels look pretty dingy and could use a repaint in any case, but if I were ordering my car today, I'd go with a black interior, so I'm wondering how much additional effort I'd be looking at.
My car is and will always be a long way off from original condition, so that part doesn't bother me.
Thanks all.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Color change is easy if you use the right product. For a vinyl interior (most parts are plastic anyway), use SEM "Color Coat" elastomeric coloring 'dye'. The key to good results is to get the surfaces absolutely clean (gotta get rid of all the years of Armor-All 
). Use detergent once or twice; rinse thoroughly to get rid of soap and residue; let dry completely. If you have spray equipment, fine. If you don't, buy a $5 PreVal bottle-sprayer; it's great for vinyl dye.
Just spray light, covering coats. Let each coat dry for 10-15 minutes before you do another. Two coats should allow you to change from any color to any other color with full coverage and no bleed through. Dye is not like paint in that it bonds with the surface rather than adhering to it. It also will not fill the surface grain...no matter how many times you re-dye it. If you get a 'run', DO NOT wipe it down; just let it dry. It will take a bit longer to dry, but it will dry at the same level as the rest of that coat.
Good luck.
P.S. Don't replace any interior panels that you can patch with a polyester body filler (light cracks and tears, chips). After you patch it and recolor it, you won't know the difference from 'new'. But it will already fit your car AND it will be a heckuva lot less expensive.
). Use detergent once or twice; rinse thoroughly to get rid of soap and residue; let dry completely. If you have spray equipment, fine. If you don't, buy a $5 PreVal bottle-sprayer; it's great for vinyl dye.Just spray light, covering coats. Let each coat dry for 10-15 minutes before you do another. Two coats should allow you to change from any color to any other color with full coverage and no bleed through. Dye is not like paint in that it bonds with the surface rather than adhering to it. It also will not fill the surface grain...no matter how many times you re-dye it. If you get a 'run', DO NOT wipe it down; just let it dry. It will take a bit longer to dry, but it will dry at the same level as the rest of that coat.
Good luck.
P.S. Don't replace any interior panels that you can patch with a polyester body filler (light cracks and tears, chips). After you patch it and recolor it, you won't know the difference from 'new'. But it will already fit your car AND it will be a heckuva lot less expensive.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 0
From: staten island new york
St. Jude Donor '10
i did it a few years back. dyed seat shells, hinge covers, steering column, horn button and kick panels. new dash, quarter panels, header bar, windshield frame, door panels. like it was said above clean clean clean everything you are going to dye. mine was red and i went to doeskin. i have a few little parts to touch up but its been a few years
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
From: Barrie Ontario
I did mine four years ago, has held up really well, no scratches on my '77. Went from buckskin to dark blue with major change of the carpets, seats new leather two tone, etc.
Start with the right DYE, get it from a autobody supply store in your area that supplies paint, dye, filler, etc, not an autobody shop or parts supply shop. They will have all the materials for cleaning, and Dying your vinyl and plastic parts. They even have a spray bottle fill system as well! The key is CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN then apply with various light coats. I did 4 coats overall and you can still see all the "texture" on the plastic and vinyl parts. Take your time, have fun and then enjoy!
The crack can be filled with a two-part product from the same supply store, its used to fill cracks and dents in the new vinyl bumpers...yes, the vinyl bumpers. You can etch in the design and even sand smooth to fill the area. Just make sure you cut away any "curled-up" cracked sections because, you need a flat surface to be effective in your work.
Good luck
Domer
Start with the right DYE, get it from a autobody supply store in your area that supplies paint, dye, filler, etc, not an autobody shop or parts supply shop. They will have all the materials for cleaning, and Dying your vinyl and plastic parts. They even have a spray bottle fill system as well! The key is CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN then apply with various light coats. I did 4 coats overall and you can still see all the "texture" on the plastic and vinyl parts. Take your time, have fun and then enjoy!
The crack can be filled with a two-part product from the same supply store, its used to fill cracks and dents in the new vinyl bumpers...yes, the vinyl bumpers. You can etch in the design and even sand smooth to fill the area. Just make sure you cut away any "curled-up" cracked sections because, you need a flat surface to be effective in your work.
Good luck
Domer
Last edited by Domer; Apr 14, 2010 at 06:42 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,000
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis, Mn USA
I went from camel (tan) to black in my 82. New carpet (80-81 black), and seats (C5 Z06) were all I did new.
I dyed the dash and door panels with SEM black vinyl paint, which is more expensive per can, and bought from a local PPG paint store. The rest of the trim items were dyed with Duplicolor black vinyl paint from the local auto parts store.
The Duplicolor has a slightly glossier sheen than the SEM, but not by much, and is just as durable. The SEM is better for the dash to keep it looking more correct. It looks like you just armor all'd, but permanently. I like the look.
I cleaned the parts up with water on a wet rag, then used a quick wipe down with Zylol (Xylene) solvent, lightly so as to not remove any grain textures, and sprayed several light to medium coats of SEM black. It turned out beautiful and has held up for 5 years now.
You can scratch it, but you almost have to damage the vinyl in order for the scratch to show. Dont be afraid to go this route.
For the steering column, I used Appliance Epoxy paint black, from the home Depot. This is a semi-gloss black, and holds up well to keys bouncing off of it while your driving.
Also changed the steering wheel over to the black leather LeCarra for Corvette, from Mid America or any other catalog house.
Have fun.
I dyed the dash and door panels with SEM black vinyl paint, which is more expensive per can, and bought from a local PPG paint store. The rest of the trim items were dyed with Duplicolor black vinyl paint from the local auto parts store.
The Duplicolor has a slightly glossier sheen than the SEM, but not by much, and is just as durable. The SEM is better for the dash to keep it looking more correct. It looks like you just armor all'd, but permanently. I like the look.
I cleaned the parts up with water on a wet rag, then used a quick wipe down with Zylol (Xylene) solvent, lightly so as to not remove any grain textures, and sprayed several light to medium coats of SEM black. It turned out beautiful and has held up for 5 years now.
You can scratch it, but you almost have to damage the vinyl in order for the scratch to show. Dont be afraid to go this route.
For the steering column, I used Appliance Epoxy paint black, from the home Depot. This is a semi-gloss black, and holds up well to keys bouncing off of it while your driving.
Also changed the steering wheel over to the black leather LeCarra for Corvette, from Mid America or any other catalog house.
Have fun.
Last edited by MN-Brent; Apr 15, 2010 at 11:32 AM.
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 15,161
Likes: 17
From: coffee
Thanks for all of the input (and pics, Brent).
It just ocurred to me that I would still have red seatbelts, though that might not be too bad until I got around to replacing them too.
The crack is right at the curve off of the top of the dash, it would definitely complicate the repair.
Thanks for the idea, I'll give it a look.
As mentioned before, the location of the crack is problematic, but I'll see what I can do from a repair perspective too. When I get closer to doing it, I'll post up a pic to get input.
Thanks again.
It just ocurred to me that I would still have red seatbelts, though that might not be too bad until I got around to replacing them too.
The crack can be filled with a two-part product from the same supply store, its used to fill cracks and dents in the new vinyl bumpers...yes, the vinyl bumpers. You can etch in the design and even sand smooth to fill the area. Just make sure you cut away any "curled-up" cracked sections because, you need a flat surface to be effective in your work.
As mentioned before, the location of the crack is problematic, but I'll see what I can do from a repair perspective too. When I get closer to doing it, I'll post up a pic to get input.
Thanks again.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Any plastic (vinyl, nylon, rayon, etc. etc.) part and be dyed with SEM "Color Coat", as well as, rubber, synthetic rubber, and leather materials. The SEM dye seals the leather instead of just recoloring it, so that's good for steering wheels but probably not so good for seats. You may want to look into leather dye for seats (do a Google on leather dye).
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 15,161
Likes: 17
From: coffee
Any plastic (vinyl, nylon, rayon, etc. etc.) part and be dyed with SEM "Color Coat", as well as, rubber, synthetic rubber, and leather materials. The SEM dye seals the leather instead of just recoloring it, so that's good for steering wheels but probably not so good for seats. You may want to look into leather dye for seats (do a Google on leather dye).
My seat covers are pretty trashed out and worth replacing anyway, so I'll end up ordering a set in black.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,962
Likes: 5
From: Schererville IN
black replacement seat belts from Seatbelt Solutions.
One season of use, 4 or 5 drives. Like new.
$280 new - I'll sell for $200.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
The seat belts are nylon.....plastic. Just remove them from the car, extend the belt out fully and put a clip on to retain that position, mask of the metal portions and shoot it with vinyl dye. How do you think the nylon fibers are colored in the first place?
