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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 09:30 PM
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Default Did some blasting

These are off my '68 parts car, I was going to freshen up my car but I'm not sure I've got it in me anymore.
What colors should I paint these pieces to look more correct than the typical black that I used when I re-did my '68 years ago? If I use these I'll want everything to look like it did in '68.

Should I just prime them and sell them or would you paint everything 1st?






These weren't sandblasted.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 09:54 PM
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I've heard the eastwood chassis black colors are almost dead on.

I painted all parts first. If I did it again I'd use a blaster, they're not that expensive and you get some very good results..as shown in your pics.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 10:00 PM
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If you have a restoration guide, it should outline the finish for most of these parts.

Where it called for natural fisnish, I used POR-Metal Mask. The other pieces I painted semi-gloss or gloss black.

Here are a few shots for you:













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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by eastltd
If you have a restoration guide, it should outline the finish for most of these parts.

Where it called for natural fisnish, I used POR-Metal Mask. The other pieces I painted semi-gloss or gloss black.

Here are a few shots for you:













Very nice That is exactly what I needed to see.

I suppose I should get a restoration guide and after seeing your pictures I may find the energy to re-do mine once more!

Last edited by DZRick; Apr 18, 2010 at 12:44 AM.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 11:21 PM
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Rick, why is that '68 roadster a parts car?

-W (curious)
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Clams Canino
Rick, why is that '68 roadster a parts car?

-W (curious)
I bought it 21 years ago to use what I needed to finish my coupe. I probably should have just stored it but I haven't got enough indoor storage for that. It was pretty complete and totally "original" numbers matching too.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by DZRick
I bought it 21 years ago to use what I needed to finish my coupe.
But some of us appreciate the parts that live on!



I still remember when you posted and said you'd rolled your car.....


John
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by seventysixvette
But some of us appreciate the parts that live on!



I still remember when you posted and said you'd rolled your car.....


John
I know those parts have all gone to good homes.

That was 2 years ago John, I forgot about that thread.
I must have deleted most of the pictures though.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-my-vette.html
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 02:09 PM
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I would paint all the sheet metal parts semi gloss or satin and leave the cast iron pieces natural....or at the very least clear coat them....

BTW would you have a spare stainless ring for the outside door button....One of a couple of small items I lost over the years while my 68 was apart
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 02:56 PM
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Hi DZ,
How serious do you want to get?
The half shaft tubes were bright natural extruded steel. The process left parallel lines running the length of the tube The universal joint was natural as forged AND the weld bead will show a heat affected area on the tube. You can imagine how quickly those tubes rusted.
Lot's of ingenious ways of duplicating the heat zone have been devised.
Isn't it great that we all have it SO GOOD that something like that can matter to some people, and they can devote time and energy to it?
I'll bet you do the sensible thing!
Regards,
Alan

PS: East... some pictures I haven't seen! Nice surface on the work bench!
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
I would paint all the sheet metal parts semi gloss or satin and leave the cast iron pieces natural....or at the very least clear coat them....

BTW would you have a spare stainless ring for the outside door button....One of a couple of small items I lost over the years while my 68 was apart
Since it seems my locksmith packed up and moved to NC taking 2 of my spare lock assemblies with him, I guess I could let one go.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi DZ,
How serious do you want to get?
The half shaft tubes were bright natural extruded steel. The process left parallel lines running the length of the tube The universal joint was natural as forged AND the weld bead will show a heat affected area on the tube. You can imagine how quickly those tubes rusted.
Lot's of ingenious ways of duplicating the heat zone have been devised.
Isn't it great that we all have it SO GOOD that something like that can matter to some people, and they can devote time and energy to it?
I'll bet you do the sensible thing!
Regards,
Alan

PS: East... some pictures I haven't seen! Nice surface on the work bench!
Hi Alan,
I'm just looking to have this stuff close to correct, not looking to have it judged. I'm not against using a cast-blast type of paint on stuff that should be bare.
Everything being black just doesn't cut it after seeing so many nicely detailed cars here.

Last edited by DZRick; Apr 18, 2010 at 05:42 PM.
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