Guys and gals. It was reccomended I return to this site by a very conscientious member who saw an ad I had posted on Craigslist. I don't know how many of you have tried to sell a car there, but it was quite the experience. I have a 69 L-46. Monza red, appx. 54k miles with an M-21. All numbers match. everything is original but the distributor, first owner installed a Mallory dual-point which I was having a hard time getting parts for, so it now has a '67 tach drive dist in it. I realize this car is not cherry. It has a broken fan shroud and previous owner did some creative modification to the fuel filter system. (didn't want to spend the bucks on the expensive original). All it would need is new lines and a filter. I still have the bracket. Right now it has an electronic ignition box and coil installed. It is as we speak having the stock coil put back on, as well as the crusty but original ignition shielding. It has headers installed but I have the original exhaust manifolds and A.I.R. system. I have the original battery, spare tire, T-top bags and owners manual. The car has never been painted. The interior is in excellent shape with the exception of the grab handles need replaced, which I have ordered and will be replacing whether it sells or not. The seats need new foam. The foam is deteriorated to the point it is hard to keep the interior clean. I have tried to be as honestly descriptive of the car and its flaws as I could. Here is a link to pics.

http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/a...feld/69%20L46/

If anyone could take a look and tell me a ballpark what they think it may be worth (or what I could realistically expect to get) it would really be appreciated. Thanks in advance, especially to Ed.

 

Nice car. Why the '68 tail light lenses?

 

The original owner liked the '68 look better. One of the first things he did after getting it along wth the distributor and the Polyglas tires that were still on it when I got it. I do still have the '69 lenses. In fact I did put them back on but he had also done something behind the bezels to eliminate the back up lights coming on and whenever I was on the brake it looked to the car behind me like I was in reverse. After a bunch of honks and shouts from guys on bikes behind me I just put the '68 lenses back in planning to fix the wiring at a later time. I also forgot to mention that the engine has been rebuilt and compression dropped to about 10:1 with forged pistons. The rebuilder scammed me out of the original pistons so I do not have them.

 

Me too, but as a '68 owner, I'm biased.

 

What's up with the horrible misalignment on the door here?

 

My value estimate from what I could see in the pics is $12,000-$16,000 and that is if the birdcage and frame is are good shape. This is what I would consider purchasing it for. Prices will vary with location.

 

The door is cracked open to show the chips............As it is in the video. The hood closes too. All the doors line up fine.

 

I see, that's a very strange picture, paralax does some weird things in photography.

I wonder how much help these "what's it worth" threads are to the person posting them. The last one I saw had estimates from 15000 to "if someone offers you 4500 grab it.".

 

Didn't know how much help it would be. All I wondered was an honest opinion of its worth and was told this may be the place to find out. I realize it's not a show car but it wont be going anywhere for 12k. Thanks for the input so far though.

 

This is a tough one to value just looking at pictures. '69 L-46 cars are very desirable, so you have that going for you. Original paint attracts certain buyers too, so you have that going for you as well. However, the original paint crowd doesn't usually go for the wrong tail light lenses and things like headers, but they can be fixed for reasonable money. I don't think I would give a number as low as $12K, but the overall condition of the car isn't the greatest with the chips, numerous paint issues, faded carpet, patina on the shifter console et al. If it was my car, I would correct the electrical problem to put the '69 lenses back in and put all the original stuff (except the battery) back on the car and target the "original" crowd because that won't cost you much, and you can go back to the headers easily enough if the car doesn't sell for what you want.

Be ready for a lot of questions on the motor rebuild, I know I would be asking about why it needed to be rebuilt if the car only had fifty something thousand miles. Rebuilding to a lower compression is unusual, I would also want more insight into why that decision went that way. The condition of the driver's seat is also not consistent with the stated mileage, I would be questioning that as well.

 

All good questions. I am in the process of putting as many stock parts back on the car as possible. When I bought it I had planned on keeping it and it was heavilly suggested to me to at least have the engine gone through, checked out and freshened up over the winter. There was absolutely nothing wrong with it. There was no cylinder ridge and the cross hatch was still plain as day. The builder suggested going with lower compression pistons to help it run better on the "panther ****" that passes for gasoline these days. As far as the seat goes, the previous owner was, to put it mildly, a BIG guy. I've seen lots with the same seat problem. I can assure you, to what avail I don't know, that I'm not trying to pass off a turd as a diamond. Does it have issues? yes. I am however, not here trying to fool anyone with a clapped out car with a rolled back odometer. No trickery going on here. I've been honest about the car and just wanted an honest opinion.

 

Which you provided! thank you.

 

And I tried to tell you what caught my eye so that you could be prepared for some of the questions that are very likely to come up.

I'm sure I don't understand why some people have such love for the gas that was sold in the late '60s and early '70s. For the most part, the gasoline sold today is better for your car and the environment than the gas sold in those days. I would consider getting new foam for the seats.

 

Hi TFN,
It looks like a pretty interesting car.
The first thing that came to mind when I read your description and looked at the pictures is that this car needs some $$$ spent on it. Being a 69 350/350 makes that possible IF the stamped information on the pad gives people confidence, the list of matching number/date parts is VERY long, and the rust situation is good.
SO what does the pad look like, what matches, and is the car rusty?
Regards,
Alan

 

I assume you mean the block pad. I really don't know why I didnt get a picture of that yesterday. You can be sure there will be a pic of it up tonight. As far as what matches, everything that I've thought to run the numbers on matches based on my Chevy By the Numbers book. All engine components are original, heads, block, crank, intake and exhaust manifolds, carburetor etc. I checked all of those after I got it back from the builder to make sure I got my engine back. The transmission was checked and verified. The diff was checked and verified. The distributor is not the original. As far as rust situation what else would you need to see specifically to gauge it? I would be happy to take as many pics as needed. I appreciate the feedback from you guys.

 

Leaving now to get pics of the pad. Don't know why I didn't do it last night. Thanks for the input guys.

 

Welp, just called and car is locked up inside the shop for the night. Pics up tomorrow. To be continued..........

Thanks folks.

 

Ok. Here are some numbers.

http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/a...ock%20Numbers/