Hello Fellow Vette Heads,

Fuel pump bolts just snapped off. Thought I needed a new pump. After all I've changed one in every car I owned back in the day. But never ran into this problem. The bolt is still in the block. And the air unit is in the way, have to do all work from underneath.... Any suggestions?

 

90ş drill-adapter, progressively-larger bits, don't break off a bit, and most likely a helicoil rather than trying an easy-out (which, if you break off, you will be screwed) will be your best bet.

 

Remove right-front wheel for better access. Soak the broken bolt/threaded hole with PB Blaster...build a little 'dam' around that hole with some clay lined with tin foil so that you have a little reservoir filled with Blaster soaking it for a day or two. Drill [progressively larger holes] into the center of the broken shank for the largest E-Z Out you can put into that shank; then use a T-handle (tap set) to back it out. Not a fun job, but you gotta do it. Good luck.

 

Thanks for your input, This one's killing me with access. I see no other way to do this, than the two ways you guys suggested

Thanks,


Dave (Elkhartgreen72)

 

All the above suggestions sounds good. But if I may add, if you have axcess to any left handed drills bits that may back out the bolt while you are drilling. I am left to wonder if someone installed too long of a bolt and it went all the way to the end? Also I would try to drill it all the way thru the bolt but not into the cast iron block. If you pay close attention you should be able to feel the drill bit go thru the steel but if the bolt was bottom out you may not feel it but the shavings and drilling will be a lot different. You may aslo want to mark the drill bit with a piece of tape so you wont drill too deep. For some reason when you drill all the way thru the bolt it seems to take away some of the tension on the bolt and make removal a lot easier.

After the hole is drilled all the way thru soak it down with pb blaster or if you have axcess to it the chain and cable spray made by liquid wrench works very good as a tap lubricate and works very well.

I was tapping some 1/2 holes at work and using pb blaster and struggleing to get the first one done and just picked up the can of chain and cable lube and tried it. Well the tap started cutting like mad and there was no comparsion in how it worked verus the pb blaster. I had used some stuff at one time called tap ease and the chain and cable lube smells just like the tap ease so I gave it a shot and it worked very good.

ALSO the biggest thing I want to add is make sure you block off the push rod and return hole. You don't want metal shavings to enter the oil system.

Good luck, Wilson

 

Thanks Wilson,

Never heard of a reverse drill bit. but I'm going to look for it now.

Your suggestions are
good (as well as the others)

I must add... I did not break this bolt. I thought the fuel pump went bad, After towing it home, I looked and the pump was just hanging all connected. (WTF) The other hole only has about a half inch till it stops.

I will take advice from all on this one...so far everyone's ideas will work

Anybody please feel free to give advice.


Thanks,

Dave (Eklhartgreen72)

 

That upper right side bolt looks like it might have a small bit of metal sticking up that really sharp center punch might be able to gain some purchase on. Tap out counterclockwise with a small hammer . I have had luck teasing broken bolts out this way.

 

I don't know if you have a Grainger near you but I don't think you will have a lot of luck at the big chain stores.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4DH03?Pid=search

You may get lucky and just back it right out. It might just be age or the wrong type of bolt or just a defective bolt and just broke.

That bolt should not be stuck too bad and I would not think it is rusted in place. You might get by with a sharp pick and try to walk the bolt out with that. I have had good luck with that when the bolt just broke without any other troubles (rusted,frozen in place,crossthreaded).

If you can get to it you may also get by with a sharp punch and small hammer to walk it out a little at a time.

I thought you had broken this bolt off removing the fuel pump so hopefully it won't be too hard to deal with.

 

Thanks again Wilson,

I might buy the bit, they can ship it to me. I did all the normal checks when the car broke down. Said, sounds like the fuel pump, Then discovered the problem at home. It can be fixed. Just want to get as much advice as possable... 'Cause there is NO room for era. If you think of anything else, let me now.


Dave (Elkhartgreen72)

 

As mentioned, a small punch, screw driver or nail might be able to spin out the bolt. You only need about 1 turn, then you can grab it and spin it out the rest of the way. I've seen much worse. It'll go; take your time and do it! Good Luck.

 

Thanks Jeff,

I'm starting to feel more confident, Ed from Corvette Parmedics mostly does the stuff
I'm not equipped to handle. Your right though, get a bite and it should twist out. Would save me some cash. This car is all there (Used but never molested) Hate to screw up the block.

Thanks,

Dave (Elkhartgreen72)

 

I have got a few broken off bolts using easy-outs.........drills a hole and screw in the spiral extractor...........the key is to purchase a good tool(high quality harden steel extractor) no soft China crap, and use a small torch to heat up the area after you drill.



Good luck

 

Torch?????? But still would work. This one has me stumpped. I am Soooo fn scaried to do anytrhing??????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????

It's late and I had a few beers I'm just looking at the car, And polishing it a bit.