When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
the control valve and ram are vette stuff I believe the pump is pretty stock item I just diid all of that stuff and used Lonestar PM me if you need more info
A rebuilt PS slave cylinder and control valve should cost you about $200 for the pair, exchange. A new hose set is another $70. These parts are cheap enough and easy to change. You can buy these direct from Lonestar Calipers, or from any of the Corvette vendors. I think you'll find them much cheaper from a Corvette vendor than Cardone or similar rebuilds from a local parts store.
The 63-82 Corvette control valve and slave cylinder style PS set up, was basically the same system as the full size Chevy used from 58-64 and the Chevy II used from 62-67. I don't have any of my GM parts books home to check, but I think the control valve is the same for the Vette and the passenger car. The slave cylinder is unique to the Vette, the holes where the hoses attach are positioned differently on Corvette slaves. All Chevelles & Camaros, as well as 65 up full size Chevys and 68 up Chevy II/Novas used the power steering system with the assisted steering box.
To remove the power steering from your 75, you would need to replace the center link and pitman arm, as they are different on a power and none power steering Corvette. The steering box is the same in 75, with or with out power steering.
Thanks 69smallblock! I'll check out Lonestar. Just thought maybe there's a more economical alternative to replace or rebuild the ram and control valve.
Ever heard of somebody going from power steering to manual? I guess nobody would do that since it's a backward move
Loads of info there! Thanks a lot! Again, given the chance, I would like to go back to manual steering. I like to have a bare bones vette since I have a manual tranny and the windows have cranks. I would like my old vette to be as simple as possible and hopefully turn it into a reliable weekend warrior...less moving parts less things to break right?
If you decide to go to manual, you will need to relocate the tie rod ends to the outer position on the steering knuckles at the wheels. This gives you more leverage. The hole is probably filled with lead, so you would have to drill it out.
I have not heard that the center link (relay rod) is any different, but maybe it is.
I just went through this with my 81. Basically, the power rams are notorious for leaking if they haven't been dealt with. On mine, the chrome had worn off the shaft after all the years of use. It would leak right in that area. A rebuilt unit fixed the problem. As for the valve, that was an easy rebuild. Ok, it took a little time, but pretty straight forward if you have decent mechanical skills. I also decided to check out my steering box. I unhooked and removed my steering column and discovered that the bearings just below the column were worn and rusty (water probably dripped in there from engine compartment washes). It also had a little 'play' in the lower portion of the shaft at the pitman arm. I wanted tighter steering so I pulled it, cleaned it, disassembled it and installed a rebuild kit. Now, this is a job I enjoyed doing, but unless you have a lot of tools at your disposal, I'd recommend just getting a rebuilt unit. The rest of my front end components have been replaced not that many miles ago. Steering feels a lot tighter (I haven't driven it yet however ...need to finish interior work). Good luck,
I have not heard that the center link (relay rod) is any different, but maybe it is.
The un-assisted steering relay rod has the ball stud, that attaches the rod to the pitman arm, in the end of the relay rod. With power steering, the ball stud for the pitman arm is in power steering control valve, not the rod.
Before you do anything, at least have a look at the new integral power steering box made by Borgeson. This is a 21st century box that has the power ram and control valve built into it. It has a 12.7:1 ratio, or about 2.5 turns lock to lock, much more user friendly.
You use your existing pump and Pitman arm, but throw away the old control valve and leaky power ram. You need to buy the steering box for $460, and it uses the factory mounting holes. You have to buy a dedicated Drag Link Adapter (to replace the old control valve), a rag joint to fit the box to the shaft and a two hose kit to connect the pump to the box. All are on Borgeson's website.
For under a grand, you'll have a far superior steering set up that has variable boost, maximum when parking and minimum when cruising, just like a modern car. And the best part is, it looks like it was installed at the factory.
Try to get a drive of someone's car that has had this box fitted before you decide to go to manual steer. You'll be glad you did.
I am absolutely amazed by the amount of responses and support that I am receiving. With these information and tips, I am now confident to tackle this steering issue head on.
John makes a point. If you found that your steering box needed repair or replacement you may want to consider one of the new P/S boxes like the Borgeson.
Pete,
That is not a new control valve, it is a Drag Link Adapter and you would only use it if you were going back to manual steering or if you were planning to upgrade to a Borgeson integral power steering box.
I'm sure you know that, but a newbie might not, so I thought I'd better spell it out.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Originally Posted by aussiejohn
Pete,
That is not a new control valve, it is a Drag Link Adapter and you would only use it if you were going back to manual steering or if you were planning to upgrade to a Borgeson integral power steering box.
I'm sure you know that, but a newbie might not, so I thought I'd better spell it out.
Regards from Down Under
aussiejohn
Hi aussiejohn,
You are correct! That is an adapter to go from power steering to manual steering which I thought the OP was asking about. Seems like you just remove the PS control valve and install this part instead of having to change the whole relay rod.
However ecklers does not mention that you must still change the pitman arm and use the other holes for the tie rod ends.
Regards from North Carolina,
Pete.
Just bought my first 'vette. It's a stick '75 Stingray and it's a running project car.
Top of the list is to fix the power steering. There seems to be a leak in the hydraulic ram and/or control valve area.
I understand that power steering was an option back then and if it's too expensive to repair, can I just go back to manual steering?
Did Chevy use interchangeable power steering components common to other models like the Camaro, Malibu, etc?
Thanks in advance for the help!
You do not want to go without PS unless your arms are like popeyes
and going around corners you will really need it. Not so much in A straight line but run some autocross or good twisty roads.