Help Replacing U Joint
Racer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
From: Near Round Top (pop. 90) Texas
Oh, and a good press.
I got mine at Harbor Freight.....around $75. works great, and you can use it for other things as well such as control arm bushings.
Really not that difficult of a job.
Good luck!
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,239
Likes: 19
From: Chino CA
No real tips...
A) Look carefully at how everything is before and while taking it apart...
B) Take you time and do a super clean job - she's YOUR ride after all...
C) Have a cold beer or a soda....should be fun.
It's really not rocket science...I did mine...! But a neat clean job is what you'll get (and pride) instead of taking it to Bubba's Auto Repair Shop !!!
Take some pics and post them ! We'll all pat you on the back and tell ya that ya done fine !
A) Look carefully at how everything is before and while taking it apart...
B) Take you time and do a super clean job - she's YOUR ride after all...
C) Have a cold beer or a soda....should be fun.
It's really not rocket science...I did mine...! But a neat clean job is what you'll get (and pride) instead of taking it to Bubba's Auto Repair Shop !!!
Take some pics and post them ! We'll all pat you on the back and tell ya that ya done fine !
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
If you don't have the proper equipment [a good hydraulic press] or if you use a good press improperly, you can bend the yokes and cause them to bind up the new joints. To prevent that, use the following approach when trying to remove the old joints: Apply significant load to the joint being removed; use a steel headed hammer and a steel drift to apply some shock-loading to the bearing cap of that joint in the same direction as its removal. Reapply that level of loading and give it another "shot". This will allow you to 'walk' the U-joint out of its yoke without applying excessive loading to get it to move.
If you follow that procedure and the hammer blow doesn't cause it to 'creep', hit it harder.
Also, apply a thin wipe of lube to the yoke bores before you press the new joints in.
P.S. If you choose to install joints with Zerk fittings, make certain of the direction the Zerk is 'aiming' before you install it. The Zerk needs to be 'aimed' away from any potential interference for the grease gun fitting to engage with it.
If you follow that procedure and the hammer blow doesn't cause it to 'creep', hit it harder.
Also, apply a thin wipe of lube to the yoke bores before you press the new joints in.
P.S. If you choose to install joints with Zerk fittings, make certain of the direction the Zerk is 'aiming' before you install it. The Zerk needs to be 'aimed' away from any potential interference for the grease gun fitting to engage with it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,419
Likes: 1,555
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
You should use this tool or at least bolt the half shafts together so you don't bend the yokes.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 62
From: West Kingston RI
Thanks for all the tips. I was reading that you need to rotate the eccentric bolt to allow for removal. If so how critical is the realignment of the bolt on rear alignment?
Thanks,
Dick
Thanks,
Dick
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,108
Likes: 0
From: Sebastian Florida
I used a black magic marker.
Terrorizing Orange Cones
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,572
Likes: 17
From: Northern CO
I know Stinger made his own but the one you pictured looks commercially available? I hadn't noticed yet who offers one and curious if you would provide the vendor, please?
That is a lesson I learned early and still have a pair of brand new u-joint spindle flanges that are slightly tweaked because I didn't have one. Kept that pair off the car and bought assembled half-shafts so looking to have the first set as back up after I attempt to get them trued up.
Thanks for the help.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,419
Likes: 1,555
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 3,079
Likes: 314
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Replaced all my u-joints recently. The half shafts are tougher to change, especially the flanged ends. Bolted up a companion axle flange to keep everything straight. Actually cut most of these joints out with an acetelyne torch and finished knocking them out in a large vise using a slightly smaller diameter impact socket. When pressing the new joints in it helps to periodically tap the yoke with a brass hammer to keep everything going in straight and smooth. Good to check the movement of the joint when done, just in case the yoke alignment changed any. A little tapping here or there can fix that. The whole job is a lot easier with two sets of hands.
I have been told by an expert that it doesn't matter which half shaft goes where. I don't remember having to loosen any eccentric bolt though, but it does take a little wiggling to get everything back in.
Oh, and make sure none of the bearing pins decide to lay down and take a nap when you put the caps on. After trying to press the joint in the yoke is no time to find this out.
I have been told by an expert that it doesn't matter which half shaft goes where. I don't remember having to loosen any eccentric bolt though, but it does take a little wiggling to get everything back in.
Oh, and make sure none of the bearing pins decide to lay down and take a nap when you put the caps on. After trying to press the joint in the yoke is no time to find this out.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 62
From: West Kingston RI
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 5
From: Naperville Illinois
Replaced all my u-joints recently. The half shafts are tougher to change, especially the flanged ends. Bolted up a companion axle flange to keep everything straight. Actually cut most of these joints out with an acetelyne torch and finished knocking them out in a large vise using a slightly smaller diameter impact socket. When pressing the new joints in it helps to periodically tap the yoke with a brass hammer to keep everything going in straight and smooth. Good to check the movement of the joint when done, just in case the yoke alignment changed any. A little tapping here or there can fix that. The whole job is a lot easier with two sets of hands.
I have been told by an expert that it doesn't matter which half shaft goes where. I don't remember having to loosen any eccentric bolt though, but it does take a little wiggling to get everything back in.
Oh, and make sure none of the bearing pins decide to lay down and take a nap when you put the caps on. After trying to press the joint in the yoke is no time to find this out.
I have been told by an expert that it doesn't matter which half shaft goes where. I don't remember having to loosen any eccentric bolt though, but it does take a little wiggling to get everything back in.
Oh, and make sure none of the bearing pins decide to lay down and take a nap when you put the caps on. After trying to press the joint in the yoke is no time to find this out.
I cut the spiders out with a cut-off wheel in a grinder then used a socket and a big c-clamp to press out the caps. If your u-joints are old this process can be a pain. To keep the ears from bending on install I bolted the companion flange to the yoke flange also, too cheap to buy the steel plate tool!
I recommend the solid Spicer u-joints, I'm sorry I forget the part number. You will have to grind a small relief in your halfshaft yoke and flange to get the Spicer spiders in:
Good luck
