Speaker Depths
I'm looking at replacing my set of speakers in my 75. I found that my front left speaker isn't working and I figure I might as well replace it, as well as the others if I really feel like doing the rears.
I read a few threads today including this one:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...ck-panels.html
which was advocating a 2 speaker system. I've been looking the DB651s', which are recommended but I'd like to know what other options I have. I currently had purchased some CDT's for my Titan and wouldn't mind picking up another set but I don't know how large I can get into the aforementioned areas. (dash/kick panel/ and or rear)
Any one that had measurement or that is in a teardown process and has measurements it'd be greatly appreciated.
I did this about 2 years ago and I have some emails that I can send you regarding what I did. To break it down, I used CDT in the kick panel, put a sub in the back and used 2 amps that I mounted to the back wall. To install the kickpanel speakers I have to modify the kick panels and trim back the metal on the car to accomodate the diameter and depth of speakers. I'll see what I can dig up and post it.
Head Unit: equivalent to mine
http://cgi.ebay.com/KENWOOD-KDC-X494...item4cf022d9e6
Bezel Adapter Plate:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=110214299103
Kick Panel Speakers: 5.5" CDT's from Woofersetc, could not locate them
Kick Panel Sound Deadener:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfmf...roduct_ID=1341
Speaker Amp:
http://www.woofersetc.com/p5220/ASA4...-Amplifier.htm
Subwoofer Amp: equivalent
http://www.woofersetc.com/p8088/ASA1...-Amplifier.htm
Amp Install Kit: find one with as much as you think you need
The amp kit probably won't have enough terminals for you so you'll have to get some terminals and heat shrink and stuff like that. I like welding wire lug ring terminals because they are big and easy to crimp onto the battery cables and they are heavy duty. I also like monster brand fork terminals for amps but they are big and I sometimes have to trim them to get them to fit. Terminals is kind of all up to you...just keep it all clean and have everything heat shrunk and crimped very tightly with no stray strands.
I cut holes in the kick panels and mounted the speakers in them. Then I used sound deadening material on the back of the kick panel around the speaker to insulate it as best I could. I then had to cut back the stock flanges behind the kick panels to fit the magnet of the speaker into the kickpanel opening so I could put the kick panel back in it's stock location. I had some wires for the rear headlights back there on the drivers side so be careful not to cut them.
I mounted the amps to a single board, covered in matching carpet, and attached it to the back wall using some plastic spacers I bought at the harware store between the board and the fiberglass. You can mount the board first, then wire the amps, and test everything and then screw the amps to the board. Keep them to the driver's side so the sub box can slide all the way back on the passenger side with the slope of the sub box facing the driver's side sideways, assuming you use a box like mine. Also, I cut a relief in the board to allow clearance for the rear headlight harness on the lower drivers side.
I would also suggest, though I did not list it and did not do it, some sound deadening material for the bottom side of that back deck. It's very thin fiberglass. I should have done this, it would have sounded much better. I might have put it on the top too.
Here are some pics, I have used vinyl dye to fix up the kick panels, dash etc but that is not reflected in these pics . Also, I think I'm going to find a better way to route the wires out of site this year and put some switchable LED lights in the back so I can see at night.





Hope this helps, sorry no measurements on record. I traced the magnet on the car and the cone on the kickpanel and cut out the circles.
-Dan
Last edited by Dantana; Jun 29, 2010 at 06:37 PM.
Thanks for the help








