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I am sick and tired of trying to figure out where all the spliced and re routed wires behind my dash and console go. I ordered a new dash harness today and will replace it this weekend. Pulling the dash and dropping the cloumn is no big deal (already been there) is there anything special I need to know before I start. Thanks Skip
Hi Skip,
I suggest you be careful with the harness as it passes the speedometer and tachometer so the harness doesn't get pinched or wear against the cast iron steering column support. Also, it's REAL easy to put the connector for the wiper switch on backwards/upsidedown.
Regards,
Alan
I am very glad I went with new harnesses... even though I thought my dash harness was perfect - afterwards, I saw imperfectinos and aging - even though my car was always garage kept.
As for pics before hand - if you do this thoroughly, not only will it be an advantage to you - but to all of us....
Alan - I get confused on the wiper switch - are you talking at the center console to the right/underside of the radio? If so - can you expound on the right way?
Skip - the thought of warming up the harness is worthwhile - as initialy the harness is a bit stiff. The far drivers's side has a big 'loop' as it comes from the fuseblock towards the speedo/dash. Being flexible is good here.
Also on Alan's comment - regarding clearance at the column - I was careful and I am pretty confident I have mine located correctly - but your 'BEFORE' pics will tell alot to us all - and allow me to verify mine .
I'll be watching - good luck..... hey - did we all forget to say something about patience?
Some great suggestions above. Maybe another. When you go to install the speedo/tach dash, if the wire harnesses behind this dash are not routed correctly, you cant' get the dash to install. I removed the speedo and tach assemblies completely and then installed the dash. Looking through the holes where the speedo and tach had been I could see were I was getting interference. Just stick your hand through the holes and move the harnesses around. Then of course, remove the dash, install the speedo/tach, and reinstall.
Rather than drop the steering column, I'd vote to just remove it completely. It's not that difficult to remove and reinstall. It makes all the underdash work so much easier if it's gone. When everything is installed and the dashes all back, it's pretty easy to reinstall the column as a last step.
...............
also, although you probably don't want to bugger your nice new harness, one thing I do is to make another little harness with all the speedo and tach bulbs on it. All of these bulb connections are routed to a connector. Then I do the same with all the bulb wires coming out of the firewall harness (they are all grey). I put them on a connector also. Then I allow my auxiliary harnesses to hang down and after installing the speedo/tach dash, I just connect the two harness connectors and bingo.. all my speedo/tach lamps have power.
I agree on dropping the column -too many advantages and 'protective' reasons.
Ahhhhh - I have a good one....
Disconnect the speedo cable and tach cable from the engine side. This allows the cables to be brought towards that dash, and allow connection. then - as you push the dash forward, 'walk' the cables back towards the engine copartment and their original resting point.
I did this with all new dash harness, cables, total frame off - still works great.
You guys are GREAT I have ordered the harness from Wilcox, the ez diagram from Doc rebuild and LED dash light bulbs from Superbright. Thanks for all your help. I will take a ton of pics all I need to do is figure out how to post them. Thanks Skip
I have faints recollections of thoughts as these....the "while I am it it disease".... now ONLY 8 years later into a frame off.
Have you ever restored an antique airplane, my wife says 2 airplane resto`s equal one house remodeling. The "while I am here" bug has bit me more times than I can count.