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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 05:03 PM
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Default Wiper Motor Wiring

I have discovered that I have a short in my wiring somewhere.
At the 1-2-3 connector onto the motor and at the switch there is power in the yellow wire full time and in the blue wire when the switch is on high OR low. The wiper motor and switch are new. I don't know how were to start.
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 05:10 PM
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Make sure the motor and switch are grounded good.
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 05:29 PM
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Grounding the blue wire at the switch kills the power on the other end at the motor. Running a ground to the motor itself makes no difference

If I leave the red/white wire plugged in by the motor it runs on high, clacking and will not shut off. I think I've also seen a small amount of smoke from the motor when the red/white wire is plugged in.
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 05:38 PM
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Hi jr,
Willcox has some very good wiper motor trouble shooting guidance on their site. Perhaps you may want to take a look there in addition to Roger's help.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 05:41 PM
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Be sure the wiper ground wire (black) is a true ground. On my '72, the wiper ground comes from the starter. There have been instances where someone incorrectly connected the black wiper ground to the starter "batter/hot" wire which is also black. Not a good thing, and, it will not blow a fuse - just generate a lot of heat and battery drain.
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 05:42 PM
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Hello Alan

I have spent a lot of time watching that video, incredibly helpful but I can't understand the power in the blue wire. it's supposed to be a secondary ground, right ???

JR
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 05:44 PM
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Hello Jim T

Mine grounds on the fan housing, 1969. The fan works fine and the ground at the wiper motor connection checks out too

JR
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by john roth
I have discovered that I have a short in my wiring somewhere.
At the 1-2-3 connector onto the motor and at the switch there is power in the yellow wire full time and in the blue wire when the switch is on high OR low. The wiper motor and switch are new. I don't know how were to start.
Are you using a test light to measure power on the blue or a multimeter ? I'm pretty sure if you use a muti meter you can show voltage on that wire when its trying to start the motor.
Originally Posted by john roth
Hello Alan

I have spent a lot of time watching that video, incredibly helpful but I can't understand the power in the blue wire. it's supposed to be a secondary ground, right ???

JR
Did you run the bench test to confirm the motor works OK ?
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by john roth
Hello Jim T

Mine grounds on the fan housing, 1969. The fan works fine and the ground at the wiper motor connection checks out too

JR
Just so we don't chase our tails AND we keep hounding you to confirm a solid ground you might want to take a piece of wire and attach one end to the wiper motor and the other to the metal case of the alternator.
The wiper motor system is heavily dependent on Ground.

I've been fooled myself by ground so the first thing I do is run a separate ground to motor and one to the dash switch.
I would say over 50% of the time the grounds fix the problem.
Here are just a few of my temporary ground leads with a few test leads and lights.
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 11:21 PM
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I will do that 1st thing in the AM Roger, thanks

JR
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 01:13 PM
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I did bench test the motor step by step with the wilcox video before installation. It was new and worked fine. I installed it and it worked fine. It sat for a long while and when I tried to park the wiper motor to put the wiper arms on it didn't work at all. I got a new wiper switch and now it's not working properly.

The bypass switch when it's closed puts the motor on high. When I use the wiper switch it just adds the clacking noise. As Roger suggested I have a ground from battery to wiper switch and alternator casing to wiper motor. No change, I still have power in the blue wire and NF wipers.

JR
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 09:35 AM
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bmp
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 09:48 AM
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Are you sure you dont have the 3 wire plug reversed at the dash switch ?
I've never tried that but the clacking sounds like your engaging the washer pump.
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 10:43 AM
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I think the noise is the arm inside that stops things in place and then breaks the connection when it parks. The connection at the switch can only go on one way.
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