Ed
Fuel Pump Replacement questions
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 289
Likes: 1
From: Valley Springs SD
Fuel Pump Replacement questions
I am not much of a mechanic but am tired of running the vette over to the mechanic everytime something goes wrong with it.
In the last week or so I have noticed a small(6" diameter) puddle of gasoline under the vette. It is on the passenger side kindof next to the front tire. So I am assuming it is the fuel pump.
Is this something a rookie can replace without too many problems? If so I would appreciate any guidance/advice/pictures/videos.... anything to help me in my attempt at replacing the fuel pump. (Remember I am not even sure what the fuel pump looks like, or where it is located, but am willing to learn!)
In the last week or so I have noticed a small(6" diameter) puddle of gasoline under the vette. It is on the passenger side kindof next to the front tire. So I am assuming it is the fuel pump.
Is this something a rookie can replace without too many problems? If so I would appreciate any guidance/advice/pictures/videos.... anything to help me in my attempt at replacing the fuel pump. (Remember I am not even sure what the fuel pump looks like, or where it is located, but am willing to learn!)
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Purchase the GM chassis service manual or a Chilton's. Either will show how to replace the fuel pump. The trick is keeping the rod in place as you install the new pump.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 6
From: www.Z16.org North/West Pennsylvania
The trick for keeping the push rod in place is to remove the bolt on the front of the block, right around the corner from the pump. With that bolt removed find another one that is longer and put it in HAND TIGHT. This will hold the rod up until you get the new pump back in. DO NOT forget to remove the longer bolt and replace the original. OK that's the hardest part. Good luck.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 62
From: West Kingston RI
The trick for keeping the push rod in place is to remove the bolt on the front of the block, right around the corner from the pump. With that bolt removed find another one that is longer and put it in HAND TIGHT. This will hold the rod up until you get the new pump back in. DO NOT forget to remove the longer bolt and replace the original. OK that's the hardest part. Good luck.
Fuel pump is easy job just take your time and you will do fine. Let us know how it goes.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 289
Likes: 1
From: Valley Springs SD
The trick for keeping the push rod in place is to remove the bolt on the front of the block, right around the corner from the pump. With that bolt removed find another one that is longer and put it in HAND TIGHT. This will hold the rod up until you get the new pump back in. DO NOT forget to remove the longer bolt and replace the original. OK that's the hardest part. Good luck.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Sorry for being so dumb, but this bolt you are talking about is not part of the fuel pump? From the pictures I've seen there are just two bolts that mount the fuel pump. So are you talking about one of these bolts that I need to thread in a different bolt while I remove the fuel pump or is it a different bolt?
I made special tool to go through the gunk so you only have to go HAND TIGHT,any tighter and you bend the pushrod.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 289
Likes: 1
From: Valley Springs SD
Is that right?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,359
Likes: 15
From: Confusion
The trick for keeping the push rod in place is to remove the bolt on the front of the block, right around the corner from the pump. With that bolt removed find another one that is longer and put it in HAND TIGHT. This will hold the rod up until you get the new pump back in. DO NOT forget to remove the longer bolt and replace the original. OK that's the hardest part. Good luck.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,359
Likes: 15
From: Confusion
2 bolts to remove pump after using flare nut wrench to remove fuel fitting (regular wrench risks rounding fitting). Pump push rod will drop down into cavity, smear grease on it and push back up into block against cam. Put gasket on and reinstall pump........1-2-3
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,485
Likes: 7
From: Peekskill NY
Also have a container under the pump when you unbolt the fuel lines to catch the gas, or it's all over you and the floor.Might want to replace the rubber gas lines as well.
Glenn
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
So I am assuming there is a bolt on the front side of the block that I need to remove then as well, then retract the pushrod and then hand tighten the longer 3/8" bolt into the hole on the front of the block. Install the the fuel pump, remove the bolt on the front of the block and the push rod will fall back into place and then replace the original bolt in the front of the block.
Is that right?
Is that right?
I install my tool in the hole where the short bolt came from until it contacts the push rod inside and holds in position.
Remove rubber lines
Remove metal line to carb using 2 wrench method
Remove 2 bolts holding pump to block and remove pump.
Push rod should be up far enough to get your finger under it,back off special tool,push pushrod up,retighten special tool.
Install new pump making sure the lever is on the pushrod,secure with 2 bolts.
Remove the special tool
Install rubber hoses and metal line to carb (using 2 wrench method)
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 157
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 6
From: www.Z16.org North/West Pennsylvania
So I am assuming there is a bolt on the front side of the block that I need to remove then as well, then retract the pushrod and then hand tighten the longer 3/8" bolt into the hole on the front of the block. Install the the fuel pump, remove the bolt on the front of the block and the push rod will fall back into place and then replace the original bolt in the front of the block.
Is that right?
Is that right?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 289
Likes: 1
From: Valley Springs SD
You guys are the best! I would be so lost without this forum! I was kind of looking forward to replacing the pump now that I had all the knowledge from you guys, but now I will be ready when it really goes out!
One other quick question, what size hose do I need?
Thanks again I really appreciate all your help and suggestions!
Last edited by 77vetter; Jul 21, 2010 at 08:37 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 15
Sizes are 3/8 for fuel supply and 1/4 for return. You might get straight hose to bend without kinking for the 1/4 but the 3/8 will almost certainly kink. I would recommend you get the pre-bent hoses for both. When I change mine I lower fuel level in tank to below 1/4 tank and raise front of car and place on stands. This keeps gas from siphoning from tank when you remove 3/8 hose. mike...
Last edited by mds3013; Jul 21, 2010 at 09:04 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,116
Likes: 5
From: Livonia MI
Another option is a rear tank mounted electric fuel pump with a block off plate on the engine block. Done this a few time's on rarely driven carbureted car's with a cabin power switch and seem's like the best way. Pull it in the garage, switch off the pump and stall out under an empty carb bowl. Later, hit the pump to refill the bowl, barely twist the key and you're running. Not exactly my original idea, but a good one.