door panel fit
#21
Race Director
Try this to locate the hole!
If the panel is popping off the top lip it sounds like it's not seating.
Does the hole for the lock shaft line up?
Yes, there should be a screw on each end at the top of the panel.
If you need to drill a hole in the panel I'm not sure how you're going to match it to an
existing hole. If the holes are there in the panel, I'd use an awl to locate the hole and pull the panel into alignment.
Does the hole for the lock shaft line up?
Yes, there should be a screw on each end at the top of the panel.
If you need to drill a hole in the panel I'm not sure how you're going to match it to an
existing hole. If the holes are there in the panel, I'd use an awl to locate the hole and pull the panel into alignment.
#22
Former Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Buddy-
I'll put my two cents in on this.... The panels if clipped over the top of the door and then attached at the bottom should still stay in place. Without the screws.
You need to take a good look at the upper metal portion of the metal door frame where the door panels hook over at the top. Make sure they are not bent downward! This is a very common problem and is a real quick simple fix with a pair of pliers.
As far as the screws go.. we usually let the customer decide if he wants the screws or not. If given a choice, we always install them.
Willcox Inc.
I'll put my two cents in on this.... The panels if clipped over the top of the door and then attached at the bottom should still stay in place. Without the screws.
You need to take a good look at the upper metal portion of the metal door frame where the door panels hook over at the top. Make sure they are not bent downward! This is a very common problem and is a real quick simple fix with a pair of pliers.
As far as the screws go.. we usually let the customer decide if he wants the screws or not. If given a choice, we always install them.
Willcox Inc.
#23
Former Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I'm also in the process of putting my Al Knoch door panels on my 70 convertible. Had anyone had any luck attaching the bottom clips to the door panels. The panels I have are about 15 years old and there's no lip for the clips to catch to on the door panel. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Attach the panel at the top, have the clips installed and then use a long awe through the hole of the clip to the hole in the door panel. You can guide the clip right to the hole, hold in place and screw it down. Should work just fine.
Willcox
#24
Melting Slicks
I'm also in the process of putting my Al Knoch door panels on my 70 convertible. Had anyone had any luck attaching the bottom clips to the door panels. The panels I have are about 15 years old and there's no lip for the clips to catch to on the door panel. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
I just looked at my Al Knoch panels, similar vintage as yours, now just garage wall decorations... The slot is there, front and rear but not easy to see at first glance. What I noticed was the foam material between the skin and the backing filled the slot making it hard to see. You may just need to take a closer look, push some of this material in a bit to expose the slot.
If you have the original clips I'd reuse them. I bought new ones to use on my original panels but went back to the originals when I noticed the reproductions were flimsy, thinner metal.
#25
Melting Slicks
Exactly how I had to attached my clips to the door. Only way to get them lined up.
#26
So the slots are there? The semi-soft foam is there on the back of the panel but I can't see where there's a slot to insert the clip. It's almost as if the clips need to be inserted under the vinyl skin cover that's wrapped around the panel and stapled to the door in order for the holes on the door to line up, but that obviously won't hold for long.
I also installed the panel and drilled/fastened the top two screws which was easier said than done. Sounds like I need to fasten them AFTER I install the bottom two clips, correct?
I also installed the panel and drilled/fastened the top two screws which was easier said than done. Sounds like I need to fasten them AFTER I install the bottom two clips, correct?
#27
Melting Slicks
So the slots are there? The semi-soft foam is there on the back of the panel but I can't see where there's a slot to insert the clip. It's almost as if the clips need to be inserted under the vinyl skin cover that's wrapped around the panel and stapled to the door in order for the holes on the door to line up, but that obviously won't hold for long.
I also installed the panel and drilled/fastened the top two screws which was easier said than done. Sounds like I need to fasten them AFTER I install the bottom two clips, correct?
I also installed the panel and drilled/fastened the top two screws which was easier said than done. Sounds like I need to fasten them AFTER I install the bottom two clips, correct?
I'll see if I can find time this evening to take some photos of my panels. Point out where the slots are. The clip may end up going under vinyl but there should be some backing material there as well. Do your panels have hard vinyl backing? Originals were some form of paper. The ones I have are plastic (vinyl I think).
#29
Melting Slicks
Probably..
There used to be door panel skins which you could glue on over the originals. They may still be avaliable?
Biggest problem I've seen with the originals is they tend to warp. I've never heard of a way to get the warp out.
There used to be door panel skins which you could glue on over the originals. They may still be avaliable?
Biggest problem I've seen with the originals is they tend to warp. I've never heard of a way to get the warp out.
#30
If the clips haven't been installed before the panel was mounted to the door, yes, you would need to remove the panel.
I'll see if I can find time this evening to take some photos of my panels. Point out where the slots are. The clip may end up going under vinyl but there should be some backing material there as well. Do your panels have hard vinyl backing? Originals were some form of paper. The ones I have are plastic (vinyl I think).
I'll see if I can find time this evening to take some photos of my panels. Point out where the slots are. The clip may end up going under vinyl but there should be some backing material there as well. Do your panels have hard vinyl backing? Originals were some form of paper. The ones I have are plastic (vinyl I think).
#31
Melting Slicks
Here's a shot of the area where the clip goes. Note the foam tends to fill the area between it and the backing panel.
I stuck a screwdriver in the slot to release foam which may have attached to the backing, allowing the clip to be inserted.
I inserted the clip, had to use a screw driver to force the clip down and under the backing. This is clipped under the backing, NOT just the vinyl skin.
A shot of the rear clip area.
Hope this helps. The clips are fairly easy to install. I recommend staying with the originals if possible since the repros are lighter gauge, flimsy by comparison.
#34
Former Vendor
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#35
Melting Slicks
Thanks
Now if I could just get them to fit...
I bought the panels, part of a kit, years ago. I didn't discover the problem where they won't seat on the top of the door properly until last summer. The lock shaft won't line up with the hole in the panel. It appears the panel sits about 1/4" too high... They're currently garage wall decorations...
Anyway, glad to help if I can....
Now if I could just get them to fit...
I bought the panels, part of a kit, years ago. I didn't discover the problem where they won't seat on the top of the door properly until last summer. The lock shaft won't line up with the hole in the panel. It appears the panel sits about 1/4" too high... They're currently garage wall decorations...
Anyway, glad to help if I can....
#37
Curling inward (warping) of the door panels is unfortunately too common and makes them not contact the tabs on the top of the door. The result is a big gap between the door panel weatherstrip and the window. I came up with one solution: remove the weather strip, drill holes and use small screws to attached the door panel top to the tabs and then install the weatherstrip. The next issue is pulling the lower part of the door panel in to the door. As we know the Velcro tabs are minimally effective. Any ideas other have come up are welcomed, as this is a common issue.
Also, I believe the original door panels had a brass sleeve inside the two upper screw holes so the screws would not be drawn too far into the door panel.
Also, I believe the original door panels had a brass sleeve inside the two upper screw holes so the screws would not be drawn too far into the door panel.
#38
It is now 2018 same issue here, had the panel set for years in the shipping box and off course 10 years later they are bowed, when installing them once inserted on the top of the door the v section whether seal is so tight against the window that the power windows won’t go up or down. The panel material is too thick compared to the original.. the only way this will work is you have to cut the steel from the door where the panel goes in on the top and relocated it 1/4 inch in, than you have the space for this thick panel to be mounted correctly. I see no other way, there simply is no room for this thick panel to fit the way it is... same issue on both doors.
#39
Melting Slicks
Do not cut your door metal. Buy new door panels that are made better than in the past. Also people use heat, like the sun or a heat gun to reshape their door panels. Lou.
Last edited by loup68; 11-18-2018 at 06:06 PM.
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