Carb Help....Again.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 155
Likes: 6
From: MD
Carb Help....Again.
I pulled the front bowl off of my carb (Holley 4175). I have talked to people and read a lot of papers on carb rebuilds.
But I ran into a snag.....
Here is the inside pic of my front bowl:
If you look at the exploded view here:
http://holley.com/data/TechService/T...ded%20View.pdf
I do not have the front bowl that is in the lower left of the first page. I have the one that is shown as part of the exploded view on the left hand side of the page... There is not a labeled "Primary Valve & Jet" in the view of the bowl that I have.
The car was flooding at idle. I had a knowledgeable friend at work look at for me when it first happened. He said that the needle and seat probably had 'junk' in it from bad gas. So I went about cleaning out the needle and seat. But here lies my problem.
Is this the "Primary Valve and Jet," which I am assuming is in this pic, the same as what he is refering to as the needle and seat?
Or is the needle and seat in the center of the Primary Metering Body Assembly, shown here:
I apologize for any missed vocabulary or serious errors I may have commited, I am quite the newb, but very mechanically savvy. Thank you for the help.
-Matt
But I ran into a snag.....
Here is the inside pic of my front bowl:
If you look at the exploded view here:
http://holley.com/data/TechService/T...ded%20View.pdf
I do not have the front bowl that is in the lower left of the first page. I have the one that is shown as part of the exploded view on the left hand side of the page... There is not a labeled "Primary Valve & Jet" in the view of the bowl that I have.
The car was flooding at idle. I had a knowledgeable friend at work look at for me when it first happened. He said that the needle and seat probably had 'junk' in it from bad gas. So I went about cleaning out the needle and seat. But here lies my problem.
Is this the "Primary Valve and Jet," which I am assuming is in this pic, the same as what he is refering to as the needle and seat?
Or is the needle and seat in the center of the Primary Metering Body Assembly, shown here:
I apologize for any missed vocabulary or serious errors I may have commited, I am quite the newb, but very mechanically savvy. Thank you for the help.
-Matt
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,716
Likes: 121
From: Sulphur LA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
The needle and seat is listed as #58 in the diagram.
The Primary jet is listed as #42 in the diagram.
I'm a little confused, you say you went about cleaning the needle and seat but your asking were the needle and seat is.
Were did you get the terminology "Primary valve and jet"?
Neal
The Primary jet is listed as #42 in the diagram.
I'm a little confused, you say you went about cleaning the needle and seat but your asking were the needle and seat is.
Were did you get the terminology "Primary valve and jet"?
Neal
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Stratford Ontario
Along with everything said on this subject, make sure You remove needle and seat located on top left corner of bowl in first pic to clean it properly. When You put it back in turn bowl upside down and adjust float till the flat side of float is parallel with bowl roof. That will give You a good starting point for float level.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Stratford Ontario
I havn't done a side bowl in over ten Years but it should unscrew out the top of the bowl if there is a adjusting nut on it. When You get it out look closey at the needle tip for particles they can be tiny and still cause problems.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 155
Likes: 6
From: MD
There is not an adjusting nut on the top of the bowl, all that is on top is a press-fit seal:
Does the needle come out from inside the bowl? Also, should I pull the metering block off and clean that as well? Should I just remove the entire carb and clean it?
Thanks for the help.
-matt
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Stratford Ontario
You will have to remove it from inside the bowl and probably the float first.If You look under Your choke plate there is little brass fittings on edge of carb horn, I would blow them out while bowl is off. Clean needle and seat. Then put it back together, not forgetting to set float as I previously mentioned. Clean or replace filter and You should be good.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 155
Likes: 6
From: MD
The brass fitting that you are talking about, is that #131 in the view here:
http://holley.com/data/TechService/T...ded%20View.pdf
http://holley.com/data/TechService/T...ded%20View.pdf
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Stratford Ontario
If You look in the picture below of Your carb on the secondary side You can see 4 in a line. 2 on either side of the main vent tube, they are air bleeds and need to be clear.Hope this helps
There is not an adjusting nut on the top of the bowl, all that is on top is a press-fit seal:
Does the needle come out from inside the bowl? Also, should I pull the metering block off and clean that as well? Should I just remove the entire carb and clean it?
Thanks for the help.
-matt
Does the needle come out from inside the bowl? Also, should I pull the metering block off and clean that as well? Should I just remove the entire carb and clean it?
Thanks for the help.
-matt
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 155
Likes: 6
From: MD
Thanks for all of the help. unfortunately, I need more.......
I cleaned it all up, blew out the air bleeds, and took the metering block off to check the power valve. All set and ready to put it back together. BUT I bought the wrong d!!@#& TricKit from Holley....
So my question (I apologize if this is a no brainer to the experts, but I just learning):
Is is absolutely necessary to replace the gaskets if you take the carb apart?
I know that I need a primary bowl gasket (shown here http://www.holley.com/108-92-2.asp)(the one I took off has separated layers). But the kit that I need for a 4175 Carb is $90?!!
Am I being too cheap? Or can I just buy a gasket kit instead of an entire renew/rebuild kit? The carb is only 6 years old.....
Also, the nuts that hold the carb can only grab 1-2 threads!? Can I get longer studs for the manifold that will still fit under the bowls of a 4175 Holley? Has anyone else encountered this?
You can kind of see it here:
Thanks
-Matt
I cleaned it all up, blew out the air bleeds, and took the metering block off to check the power valve. All set and ready to put it back together. BUT I bought the wrong d!!@#& TricKit from Holley....
So my question (I apologize if this is a no brainer to the experts, but I just learning):
Is is absolutely necessary to replace the gaskets if you take the carb apart?
I know that I need a primary bowl gasket (shown here http://www.holley.com/108-92-2.asp)(the one I took off has separated layers). But the kit that I need for a 4175 Carb is $90?!!
Am I being too cheap? Or can I just buy a gasket kit instead of an entire renew/rebuild kit? The carb is only 6 years old.....
Also, the nuts that hold the carb can only grab 1-2 threads!? Can I get longer studs for the manifold that will still fit under the bowls of a 4175 Holley? Has anyone else encountered this?
You can kind of see it here:
Thanks
-Matt
Last edited by mayor28; Aug 9, 2010 at 09:48 AM. Reason: Picture Added
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 23,419
Likes: 22
From: In limbo
St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
Judging by the last picture in your original post, it appears you have the blue rubbery kind of gaskets. If so, they were designed to be re-used. As long as they aren't torn or really chewed up, I would just put them back in and drive on. The non-reusable ones (that they haven't used in at least 3-4 years) were brown and looked like they were made of cork. A few carbs were sold with the cork ones at the metering block and the blue ones on the bowls.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Stratford Ontario
