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Have not seen it mentioned yet, what kind of pads are you running? Compound and brand? My bet would be the pads simply overheated and lost friction.
Don't remember brand--I think they were semi-metallic compound. Got system flushed and going to drive and see. Might should check run out on rotors even if they are new. Car only has 1500 miles on restoration. Real PIT butt !! Complete system is new.
Best idea? Go through the whole system, check the rotors for runout, flush the system, bleed m/cyl and calipers the right way. Rebuild the calipers. Run duct work. Going off the road and trying to knock things down is not good for you. Twice was enough for me.
Drove the car for a little more distance and it felt like the pedal was going to do the samething over. Jacked it up and pulled the rear wheels and rh rear has some serious run-out. RH swing arm had been rebuilt with new caliper and rotor but run out pushes the complete swing arm back and forth. Most likely axle is the reason tried to scribe it to mark it on the center and outside of the rotor--pretty sure axle is problem. All the rotors are new and LH rear runs true-no run out on it but the axle is new on it with new rotor/bearings etc.
Can a shim be put on the face of the axle to try and true it up? When I scribed it about 2/3 of rotor appears to run out and 1/3 has no scribe mark on it. In other words 2/3 of rotor marks as high and 1/3 as low.
Also for consideration... The rubber flex lines [at each caliper] can get old and close off fluid flow. I had one go bad and keep a rear caliper partially applied. The car felt a bit sluggish, but not too strange. Good thing I had to stop after a couple of miles...the smell of a buring brake pad got my attention real quick. This won't cause your problem, but if those lines are 7 years old [or older], you may want to consider changing them while you are working on the brake system.
Also for consideration... The rubber flex lines [at each caliper] can get old and close off fluid flow. I had one go bad and keep a rear caliper partially applied. The car felt a bit sluggish, but not too strange. Good thing I had to stop after a couple of miles...the smell of a buring brake pad got my attention real quick. This won't cause your problem, but if those lines are 7 years old [or older], you may want to consider changing them while you are working on the brake system.
Mine are all new--got a couple steel lines that are original rest is new.
I might make a suggestion for the rotors, if the pedal is not pulsating the rotors are true to go....even the smallest amount will be obvious through the pedal
I might make a suggestion for the rotors, if the pedal is not pulsating the rotors are true to go....even the smallest amount will be obvious through the pedal
I agree that has been the case for most of the times I can think about but this right rear is moving to the point it should cause the pedal to move but I don't feel it. Don't really understand what's happening. The hold TA moves when you watch it run. With the wheel on and it on the ground you wonder what kind of torque is being made on the arm.
I put stands under the shock mounts to support the tail with the weight on it. Put it in gear and the LH runs true but not the RH. May have to pull the axle but I sure do not want to! ???????????
If caliper pistons are not being "pulsed" by rotor you might well not feel this movement in pedal. I think something is bent as you said. Most likely some part on inboard side of TA. Rear spindles/axels have been know to twist at inner u-joint flange. If you remove halfshaft it could help you isolate the problem. To ck. rotor runout you need a dial indicator with probe riding on rotor as it is turned by hand. Good luck with it. mike...
Rotor runs true--had it checked got the axle out and over at machine shop to true the flange if it is out but it almost has to be--nothing else there I can think of. Pulling those axles are PITB---
man I hope this fixes this thing/////////
That seems to have fixed it--pedal is good--no noise--car seems smoother on the road..learned something from this-guess that's the best thing. More I drive it the better I like it--driveability keeps improving. Fix the glitches the better the car.
Pros: Non hydroscopic, won't ruin paint, lasts longer in the system, higher dry boiling point
Cons: does not mix with DOT3/DOT4 or other glycol based fluids, moisture pools in system when it gets in, more compressible, will aerate in an ABS system
Someone wrote a diatribe against DOT5 in one of the magazines a few months ago, and there are some companies that won't warranty rebuilds if you use it. We've gotten great results using it for the past 20 years, so I'm not sure why the dislike it so much. Nothing really argues like results.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Dot 5
In some cases, DOT 5 fluid has caused low brake pedal due to altitude changes. Any minute air bubbles in the fluid change diameter with air pressure since the system is open to atmospheric pressure. This can cause a change in density with altitude which affects performance.
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