Header Bar - Bonding Strip Removal
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: Niceville Fl
Header Bar - Bonding Strip Removal
I got the front end apart and got the header bar out this evening so I can cure the "pimples" on my '72. I started out with a heat gun to try to remove the bonding strip. I read a member's previous post on this forum that said heat applied freed the bonding strip to the point it dropped right off. I'm happy for him, but it did nothing of the sort for me. Plenty of heat for about a half hour, and that bonding strip isn't budging.
So, who has what for advice for how to get the bonding strip off? Any ideas and tips are surely welcome. TIA.
So, who has what for advice for how to get the bonding strip off? Any ideas and tips are surely welcome. TIA.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,871
Likes: 6
From: Sault Ste. Marie Ontario
I got the front end apart and got the header bar out this evening so I can cure the "pimples" on my '72. I started out with a heat gun to try to remove the bonding strip. I read a member's previous post on this forum that said heat applied freed the bonding strip to the point it dropped right off. I'm happy for him, but it did nothing of the sort for me. Plenty of heat for about a half hour, and that bonding strip isn't budging.
So, who has what for advice for how to get the bonding strip off? Any ideas and tips are surely welcome. TIA.
So, who has what for advice for how to get the bonding strip off? Any ideas and tips are surely welcome. TIA.
Have fun
Racer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 331
Likes: 44
From: Cincinnati Ohio
Try driving a thin bladed putty knife into the joint, I have been able to break the joint using heat and the putty knife approach. Your other option is to grind the bonding strip down to the joint. 
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Do you have to remove it? If it's still bonded well to the header bar, I would leave it. Drill out the aluminum rivets to eliminate the rivet head show thru on the hood surround panel and bond it back in.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 878
Likes: 55
From: Deep South Denmark
Thats how I did it.Run a Dremmel rotary tool around the thin part of the rivet (the part that went through the header bar) trimming away just enough of the bonding strip to remove the rivets.
After a while the bumps will disappear and you can fill the holes with fibreglass filler if you want and then glue the headerbar onto the bondingstrip.
Bonding strip with rivets in place:
http://public.blu.livefilestore.com/...324.JPG?psid=1
Rivets removed and bonding strip prepped for filler:
http://public.blu.livefilestore.com/...332.JPG?psid=1
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: Niceville Fl
Thats how I did it.Run a Dremmel rotary tool around the thin part of the rivet (the part that went through the header bar) trimming away just enough of the bonding strip to remove the rivets.
After a while the bumps will disappear and you can fill the holes with fibreglass filler if you want and then glue the headerbar onto the bondingstrip.
Bonding strip with rivets in place:
http://public.blu.livefilestore.com/...324.JPG?psid=1
Rivets removed and bonding strip prepped for filler:
http://public.blu.livefilestore.com/...332.JPG?psid=1
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,209
Likes: 12
From: Montgomery Alabama
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06
Both my 71 and 72 are showing the bumps over the rivets. I need to do this when I get to the paint stage. Thanks for the pictures.
I just finished re-attaching my header bar on my 82, where the Ecklers front end only had it held on with the bonding agdhesive. It was cracked and coming off. I ground all the adhesive away and drilled holes in the header bar and then covered it in fiberglass to hold it in place. It won't be going anywhere.
I just finished re-attaching my header bar on my 82, where the Ecklers front end only had it held on with the bonding agdhesive. It was cracked and coming off. I ground all the adhesive away and drilled holes in the header bar and then covered it in fiberglass to hold it in place. It won't be going anywhere.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 20
From: Kingston Ontario
Here's what I did. Knock the bottom side of the rivets off with a chisel. My bar fell right out after that. As for the expanded rivets, I drilled a pilot hole through each rivet from the bottom up, right through the glass. You'll have to measure/guess on the outside rivets because you can't get a drill in there, you did them from the top and got lucky. Then from the top I used a countersink drill bit into the pilot hole big enough to take the center of the rivet out. Then I picked out the rest of the rivet out with a small screw driver. Installed the header bar and then finished the topside body work.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 878
Likes: 55
From: Deep South Denmark
Drilling through the top fibreglass is pointless. That will only ensure that instead of a bump you will eventually wind up with an indentation once the filler and the fibreglass separates (unless you plan on laying new fibreglass mats on top).
Only remove enough material from the bonding strip so that you are able to remove the rivets (the head of the rivets are approximately ½ inch diameter).
Here in Europe we call the method of drilling through the fibreglass "the american method" (followed by a sigh) because that seems to be a common mistake made by americans when working with fibreglass, probably because that method is (unbelivably) recommended in the book "Body Repair Guide".
Only remove enough material from the bonding strip so that you are able to remove the rivets (the head of the rivets are approximately ½ inch diameter).
Here in Europe we call the method of drilling through the fibreglass "the american method" (followed by a sigh) because that seems to be a common mistake made by americans when working with fibreglass, probably because that method is (unbelivably) recommended in the book "Body Repair Guide".
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 20
From: Kingston Ontario
Drilling through the top fibreglass is pointless. That will only ensure that instead of a bump you will eventually wind up with an indentation once the filler and the fibreglass separates (unless you plan on laying new fibreglass mats on top).
Only remove enough material from the bonding strip so that you are able to remove the rivets (the head of the rivets are approximately ½ inch diameter).
Here in Europe we call the method of drilling through the fibreglass "the american method" (followed by a sigh) because that seems to be a common mistake made by americans when working with fibreglass, probably because that method is (unbelivably) recommended in the book "Body Repair Guide".
Only remove enough material from the bonding strip so that you are able to remove the rivets (the head of the rivets are approximately ½ inch diameter).
Here in Europe we call the method of drilling through the fibreglass "the american method" (followed by a sigh) because that seems to be a common mistake made by americans when working with fibreglass, probably because that method is (unbelivably) recommended in the book "Body Repair Guide".
Maybe you professionals in Europe can teach us idiots in North America how to do things properly. Don't JUST be a critic.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
...that method is (unbelivably) recommended in the book "Body Repair Guide"...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 20
From: Kingston Ontario
Since the rivits have pushed the glass way up, do you think it will fall flat after you take the rivet out from the bottom? I'm thinking it wouldn't. So then you have to sand all the bumps right through to bare glass fibers which presents another problem.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: Niceville Fl
I definitely do NOT intend to drill through the fiberglass. EasyMike, the pictures you put up are of a bonding strip that's out of the car. Did you have the front clip off? How did you remove the strip? I think it's probably going to be a trick either way, to grind the rivets out or to work the bonding strip off, being that the work space is tight. But I agree that if I can leave the bonding strip in the car, that's a better plan, so I'll get out the Dremel and the BenGay and have at it. Once again, thanks for the tips.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 878
Likes: 55
From: Deep South Denmark
Easy Mike
I threw the book away when I found out the author was an idiot so I can't remember the exact title (it didn't even burn very well so it was a complete waste of money).
Glad to hear not all Americans are Bubba's (just kidding of course)
BB72
Mine did, but i left it sitting for a month or so with the rivets out (it was the first thing i did when starting the restoration).
I threw the book away when I found out the author was an idiot so I can't remember the exact title (it didn't even burn very well so it was a complete waste of money).
Glad to hear not all Americans are Bubba's (just kidding of course)
BB72
Mine did, but i left it sitting for a month or so with the rivets out (it was the first thing i did when starting the restoration).
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Not my car in the pics, but you can make the reapir without removing the clip.
Mark and remove the hood for room to work. Remove the headlight and headlight supports. At that point you can get to the header bar and bonding strip.
Mark the position before you remove it. It goes back in the same position.
One of the Corvette magazines, can't recall whether is was corvette Fever or Vette, did an article on rivet removal and header bar replacement. Search their archives.
...How did you remove the strip?...
Mark the position before you remove it. It goes back in the same position.
One of the Corvette magazines, can't recall whether is was corvette Fever or Vette, did an article on rivet removal and header bar replacement. Search their archives.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 20
From: Kingston Ontario
Easy Mike
I threw the book away when I found out the author was an idiot so I can't remember the exact title (it didn't even burn very well so it was a complete waste of money).
Glad to hear not all Americans are Bubba's (just kidding of course)
BB72
Mine did, but i left it sitting for a month or so with the rivets out (it was the first thing i did when starting the restoration).
I threw the book away when I found out the author was an idiot so I can't remember the exact title (it didn't even burn very well so it was a complete waste of money).
Glad to hear not all Americans are Bubba's (just kidding of course)
BB72
Mine did, but i left it sitting for a month or so with the rivets out (it was the first thing i did when starting the restoration).
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: Niceville Fl
I've got a lot going on around the front end, so I'm in no hurry to button it back up. I'm doing Hydroboost, serpentine, aluminum radiator, and Vintage Air install. Another gentleman posted a while back that he put some wood strips and clamps over the bumps after getting the rivets out and the raised spots flattened out. Siince I'll be a while getting it back together, I'm going to do the same and hope it works out.
